Mod opinions please...HELP

[killermach1]

Ok I am going to list the inital mods I am thinking about right now if you have any positive (or negitive) experience with any of them or can reccomend something better please chime in. These are initial just to get me off the ground so to speak.

Suspension Kit: Roush or FRPP
FRPP Drag Pack
Cat Back Exhaust: Magnaflow, SLP, Pypes
Steeda Charge motion delete plates
Roush or Steeda Underdrive pullies
Mid Pipe: Bassani (Modular X), MRT (Catted H)

That is the initial plan, there will be some asthetic mods too, new wing, wheels, hood, etc. I just want to know if it is a good plan as far as parts. I know there are better parts out there but I am going thru adoption right now and cant blow too much cabbage on fun stuff.

 

[V8JamesGT]

Instead of going with the FRPP Drag Pack, I would go with an intake/tune/gears from brenspeed or bamachips. Mainly because they charge you a lot of the FRPP Pro Cal reflash tool thats not nearly as good as an SCT tuner. It will save you money and make your car much faster. Everything else looks good. I would also put an aluminum driveshaft at the top of that list too.

 

[MikeysOTP]

I agree about the Bama/Brenspeed deal with the SCT but I am curious about the aluminum driveshaft. A local engine builder told me that the driveshaft is a great idea if I am going to be making a lot of power in the future. He also said I won't feel any difference if I do it. For those of you who have done this, is it a noticeable gain in power either sotp or on the dyno?

 

[killermach1]

I am planning on going with a Bama chips SCT or Diablo after the initial mods. I was going to order one before the full exhaust since I know anything more that axle backs will require a tune for it's Full potential. And Since Bama can give me tunes for all planned mods I fugure their tune after the FRPP tune could increase on the planned setup. Eventually I will go with either a Roushcharger kit or the FRPP 400 or 500hp Super Charger kit. But due to money 5-7k I am just planning on light mods till then and I know the FRPP kit will not void warranty.

If there are other opinions either on the whole or individual preferences please keep them coming. The more knowledge I have to pool from the better decisions I can make.

 

[kooldawg6]

I am curious about the aluminum driveshaft. A local engine builder told me that the driveshaft is a great idea if I am going to be making a lot of power in the future. He also said I won't feel any difference if I do it. For those of you who have done this, is it a noticeable gain in power either sotp or on the dyno?

There will be no HP gain in your car, but it will give you back lost HP due to drivetrain loss(net power will be higher). How can removing upwards of 30 lbs of rotational mass not be advantageous? If his theory holds water, then putting lighter wheels on a car has no gain as well Not knocking the guy, but does his knowledge stop at the crankshaft???? There are several people on here that have picked up a few .10s in their drag strip times from swapping the DS. Right now there are 2 reasons, I haven't swapped mine. 1-Can't see spending near or over $600 on just that...yet. 2-Has been brought up enough times to make me leary about not working well with the autos, causing vibration issues.

 

[MikeysOTP]

Obviously there won't be an increase in HP at the crank, but doesn't it stand to reason that this reduction in weight in the driveline would mean an increase of either RWHP or RWTQ? How else would 1/4 mile times drop? I don't think he is telling me that it won't make any difference, he was just saying that he doesn't think I would feel it. My car has not ever been on a track and probably won't be any time soon so I don't care about numbers in particular, but I do want to get a little more out of it. I guess I am just trying to determine if this is worth the 5 or 6 hundred is worth it? I noticed a very slight improvement with the pulleys, not bad for $180 but I don't think I would be happy if I paid 3 times as much for them. Speaking of lighter wheels, I have the 18" fanblades and I think they are really slowing me down but I like the way they look. I don't have an auto so I thought the d/s might be a option. I do agree with you though that if I had an auto I would go with the driveshaft about as quick as I would swap the TB. Some people will swear by both but there certainly are a lot of complaints out there.

Sorry if this is getting a little off topic!

Maybe someday I will be able to afford a supercharger. Just what the world needs, Mr. Magoo with a 600hp Mustang!

 

[kooldawg6]

I swapped out the 17" Bullitts for the fanblades and didn't think twice about how it may hurt my performance...they look badass. Trouble is I want some big meaty tires and they don't look/handle right on an 8.5" wheel I will be going with a 10" wide rear wheel and I haven't found anything to match the fanblades well enough that I can stomach. So I will be using a Halibrand style wheel very similar to those on the V6.

 

[SpartaPerformance]

Sounds like a good mod list. I have the FRPP suspension kit and I LOVE it!! What big difference over the factory junk!! As for the performance mods, I was planning on Roush cold air, Ford CMVC delete plates, JBA shorty headers and a dyno tune.

 

[killermach1]

Yeah, after more thought I think I am ditching the FRPP Drag Pack. I can getmuch better components for about the same price. Still looking at FRPP or Roush Suspension Kit. A Bama Chips C&L Racer CAI and Tuner combo, FRPP 4.10 or 3.73 gears. MGW Shifter, and Pypes Shorty Headers. All of this in place of the FRPP Drag pack and only like 100 dollars more with WAY better quality components.

 

[TGJ]

Actually you will get a RWHP increase with a good 1 piece driveshaft. These will increase HP because they are significantly lighter than the stock driveshaft. It is easier for the drivetrain to spin so there would be a gain. From what I have heard they are good for about 2 tenths in the 1/4. I haven't got my new driveshaft yet, but I have heard you will feel the difference of it. Kooldawg6, check out http://www.spydershaft.com as they have a good driveshaft that weighs 16.5 pounds and is under $500.00. A lot of people at Modular Ford and the S197 forum have this driveshaft and really like it. I hope to have mine this week.

 

[V8JamesGT]

Thats the aluminum driveshaft I'm looking at getting as well...

 

[anticubicle]

1. Save your $$$ and don't bother with a cat-back. The stock pipes are just fine. Axle-back & mid-pipe is all you need. Definitely do NOT waste your $$$ on headers.

2. I've heard mix-reviews on the CMDP's. Some say they like em' and they help some say they're a waste of $$$. Keep in mind theres some labor involved on those to install so think about it if you wanna spend the $$$ for the gains.

3. Wheres the shifter?

 

[killermach1]

Yeah I left out the shifter. I'm going with the MGW shifter have herd a lot of good stuff on them. I have decided against the FRPP suspension, I looked at a Shelby GT, and a Roush side by side today and the FRPP suspension is not leveled and is still slightly higher in the rear. I am actually looking at the BMR level 1 kit for around 1400 which has more parts as well as better quality Tokico D Spec's and more adjustibility. That or the Roush Kit.
Here is the current list:
BMR level 1 or Roush suspension Kit
MGW Shifter
Bama Chips C&L Racer intake and SCT X Cal Combo
Steeda Charge Motion Control Plates (billet)
Steeda Under Drive Pilleys
Pypes Violator Cat Back with X Pipe
3.73 Gears
Steeda Pentar Wheels
Roush Wing
CDC Agressive chin spoiler

And that about does it untill I do some serious saving for a supercharger or cams and heads. I havn't decides weather to stay N/A or forced. But I figure the above will be a good starting point until I decide.

 

[kooldawg6]

Yeah I left out the shifter. I'm going with the MGW shifter have herd a lot of good stuff on them. I have decided against the FRPP suspension, I looked at a Shelby GT, and a Roush side by side today and the FRPP suspension is not leveled and is still slightly higher in the rear. I am actually looking at the BMR level 1 kit for around 1400 which has more parts as well as better quality Tokico D Spec's and more adjustibility. That or the Roush Kit.
Here is the current list:
BMR level 1 or Roush suspension Kit
MGW Shifter
Bama Chips C&L Racer intake and SCT X Cal Combo
Steeda Charge Motion Control Plates (billet)
Steeda Under Drive Pilleys
Pypes Violator Cat Back with X Pipe
3.73 Gears
Steeda Pentar Wheels
Roush Wing
CDC Agressive chin spoiler

And that about does it untill I do some serious saving for a supercharger or cams and heads. I havn't decides weather to stay N/A or forced. But I figure the above will be a good starting point until I decide.

With those mods and practice and traction, you should have yourself a very nice looking high 12 second car that also handles pretty damn well out on the road