Car won't start! Theft Light, SVTTECH Please help!

[OneStiffGT]

Hi guys,

I've got a 2001 GT

I did a search before posting this, got various anwers... I saw that SVTTECH is on the ball with this issue as well, so I'd appreciate it if you can help me out.

I was driving today, and pulled into the gas station to pick up a drink, got back in the car started her up, drove about 10 meters, then all of a sudden the car died. When I tried to fire her up again, it didn't start, I thought maybe it was flooded, put the gas pedal to the floor, tried to start didn't start. Then I realised the THEFT light was flashing. Pushed her over,

- checked the fuse's, both for the fuel pump (since I cant' hear it prime anymore), and the fuse #34 inside the car, both look fine, I also replaced both of them to double check, and no go.

- I checked the fuel pump safety cut off switch in the back, and it was ok as well.

- Got a ride home, picked up the 2nd set of keys, tried to fire her up with the keys, and no go.

- Disconnected the battery for 10 minutes to try to reset the ecu, and didn't work either.

- When the key is left on the ON position the THEFT LIGHT flashes for a while, then it starts flashing in a pattern, Flashes 1ce, then flashes 6 times, does this over and over again. I found this thread that has the similar prolem >>> http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=686392&highlight=theft+light

- I also tried to see if there are any CEL's, but the code reader gives an ERROR and I am asuming it has something to do with the anti-theft system being triggered.

So what could this be?

 

[COramprat]

It has lost contact with the computer so the anti theft system has kicked in.

Check this link...should have all the tips to check out.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=701971&highlight=theft

It could be the transceiver since the fuses are in good shape. Mine problem was a short in the O2 wire.

Have you done any work to it recently?

 

[OneStiffGT]

Put in a new rear end recently.

I guess next step for me should be to check all the fuses one by one.

 

[OneStiffGT]

Ok, so here is a list of things I did.

- As stated on the other thread, I held the reset button on the cluster, turn the key onto "ON" position, waited for the odometer to say TEST, then I hit the reset button till I was able to get any codes. I got DTCD043 and DTCD262, according to the other thread, [ 043 means Invalid or missing data for Traction Control ] and 9 262 means Missing SCP message. ]. I do have a SCT chip on the car, and my traction control is disabled, so I am assuming that the 043 is because of that, but what is SCP?

- I looked at all the fuses under the hood and inside the passenger compartment, and all of them look good.

 

[steve_stang2003]

Ok, so here is a list of things I did.

- As stated on the other thread, I held the reset button on the cluster, turn the key onto "ON" position, waited for the odometer to say TEST, then I hit the reset button till I was able to get any codes. I got DTCD043 and DTCD262, according to the other thread, [ 043 means Invalid or missing data for Traction Control ] and 9 262 means Missing SCP message. ]. I do have a SCT chip on the car, and my traction control is disabled, so I am assuming that the 043 is because of that, but what is SCP?

- I looked at all the fuses under the hood and inside the passenger compartment, and all of them look good.

First thing I would do is put the stock tune back in.


Turn the key to ON and leave it for about a minute. This is supposed to reset the "I got a bad key" latch.
Remove the key wait 30 seconds and then try and start the car.

The PATS system consists of 3 basic parts. The antenna which lives in the steering column near the ignition switch. The chip inside the instrument cluster and the ECU.
The antenna picks up he RFID chip in the key, sends it to the instrument cluster which then passes it along a bus to the ECU. The instrument cluster value, value read from the key and the value stored in the ECU have to match or the car will not start. Some cars will crank and not turn over and some cars will do nothing. It depends on the model year.

Once the car is started, AFAIK the PATS system is out of the loop. Seeing as your car stalled and won't restart it could be something unrelated, or it could be that you just happened to stall for some other reason and the PATS system went south at the same time.

Here is some information that might help:

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/Passive Anti Theft Diag TSB 99-26-6.htm

 

[OneStiffGT]

I tried what you mentioned above, and its a no go.

Could it be a bad fuel pump taht is causing this?

 

[COramprat]

I tried what you mentioned above, and its a no go.

Could it be a bad fuel pump taht is causing this?

It's possible but the theft light is something else. Somewhere in the system it has lost contact with the ECU. Check to make sure the wire to the fuel pump wasn't shorted when the rear end was replaced.

 

[OneStiffGT]

If there is a short, wouldn't there be a blown fuse?

 

[tag4car]

sounds like you have the same problem i had, i called diablosport and they walked me through forcing the stock tune back. problem solved

 

[OneStiffGT]

sounds like you have the same problem i had, i called diablosport and they walked me through forcing the stock tune back. problem solved

And did you change the tune after?

I have an SCT Chip. My car will not likely run on stock tune.

 

[COramprat]

If there is a short, wouldn't there be a blown fuse?

It should but mine acted up for several months before it started blowing the PCM fuse.

 

[OneStiffGT]

It should but mine acted up for several months before it started blowing the PCM fuse.

Ok, so if I pull the chip out, turn the key onto the ON position, let it sit for a minute or two, then try to start it?

 

[OneStiffGT]

Pulled the chip off, put the key onto ON position for couple of minutes till the THEFT light stopped flashinig, and then as soon as I try to turn her on, the THEFT light comes back. The car actually turns over, but fuel pump doesn't prime at all. And I think the battery is becomming low since when I tried to turn her over all the gauges reset

 

[OneStiffGT]

Bump!

 

[John00Stang]

Not sure this helps..i had close to the same problem with my 98..(not sure if the systems are the same either) ended up bein a battery on its last legs. Mine the horn would go crazy randomly along with the no start. Maybe just take your battery out and have it checked? If im way off i apologize, but like i said, it fixed my problem.

 

[COramprat]

The weak battery will cause a whole different set of problems. Make sure it is recharged and go from there. If you removed the chip once the battery is disconnected and then reconnected it should reset the computer.

The thing is I don't know why the chip would cause the problem if the car ran fine with it before but there is nothing in your mods that there would be a problem running the car without the tune.

 

[OneStiffGT]

OK guys, I found something out today... The Fuse number 26 which is the Maxi 30A pcm fuse is blown. I changed it, the car started, then as soon as I drove it maybe for 2 minutes, it blew again.

I am guessing that it is a wiring problem. I am assuming since it is the PCM fuse, its got to be somewhere between the PCM and the Power Distribution Box...

Now how do I find where the short is?

 

[COramprat]

Now we are getting somewhere. You have a short somewhere so you need to check everything in that circuit starting with the easiest things to get to.

My thread on this should give you a start.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=701971&highlight=theft

 

[OneStiffGT]

I did a quick run around the car, found out a couple of things...

1. One of the O2 wires are ripped? I had no CEL's when I had the car turned on, but it seems like one of the wires on this O2 is some how ripped. Could this be the problem?
2. The main power wire seems to be striped at one point, but it is not touching the chassis, I will offcourse fix this, but I doubt that this could be causing the PCM fuse to blow.

Another question I have is, where can I locate the wires for the fuel pump? Do I have to remove the gas tank to to be able to reach the wires for the fuel pump?

Here is a picture of the O2...

 

[COramprat]

I'd have to look at my O2 harness to be certain but it looks like the blue wire is a ground of some sort. What you would be concerned with are the black and white wires...anything that connects to the circuit.

You can get to the fuel pump connector. It should be about center of the bumper on top of the tank. Follow the instuctions in my thread. Disconnect everything in the circuit and then reconnect one at a time. When the fuse blows you have found your problem. Might help to have someone with you to listen for the pop.

Or better yet...check the areas where your rear end work was performed. Could be something close to it. Look closely at the fuel pump wires. To really trace them out you'd have to drop the tank but you may find it before it comes to that.