5.0 in a 95 running rich

[roached1]

a little background, I've just droped in a mid 80's 302 out lincoln while my motor is finished up. I did swap over a B cam as well as my intake from the other motor, msd distributor, Jacobs coil ect.I'm quite determined to make this run with no emissions at all.

I've removed everything including all the vacume solinoids, Charcol canister, egr ect. other then lines going to the pcv, and fuel pressure regulator, there are no vacume lines. nice and clean.
the car runs fine, except it is running rather rich.
I have a resister in to trick the computer that the egr is still there, but that is it.
I get a nice puff of smoke when I take off from a light, or when you stomp on it, or even down shift. I say its rich, because it doesn't smell like oil, but havn't investigated it much yet.
Now I have only had the car back on the road sence friday, so I have not had a chance to pull any plugs or anything like that let. I was hoping some one else may have been down this road in the past and might have seen the same results.
I'm cuurently running at 38 psi of fuel pressure, and about 13-14 degrees base timeing.
again this could be something as simple as a dirty injector, but thought I would throw it out to the public before I dig into it tonight.
Hell after reading a couple other posts, It could be the parts guys gave me the wrong pcv valve and it is oil! Side note, I lose all oil presure on this motor at an idle after about 5 minutes of warming up, but as the idle searches it comes and goes.

long post, but any ideas will be appretiated.
Jay

 

[91 HATCH]

It sounds like the motor is just wore out and burning oil.

 

[roached1]

well, good thought, Motor is actually a rebuilt with around 20,000 on it.(So I've been told) however the motor did sit for allmost a year in my oldmans garage in TX before it made the trip to NY.
thanks for the thought, maybe I'll run a compression test on it while the plugs are out tonight.

 

[91 HATCH]

I was thinking valve seals or something else.is the smoke black

 

[jrichker]

A cylinder balance test will help spot bad injectors if there are any. It will also show other problems when you dump the codes to run the cylinder balance test.

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a
jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start
the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then
quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed
2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about
1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each
injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors,
it will flash 9 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder
such as 2 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to
2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures.
Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is
weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop
manual for the complete test procedure

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire
or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter.
I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.

Do a compression test on all the cylinders.
Take special note of any cylinder that shows up as weak in the cylinder
balance test. Low compression on one of these cylinders rules out the
injectors as being the most likely cause of the problem. Look at cylinders
that fail the cylinder balance test but have good compression. These
cylinders either have a bad injector, bad spark plug or spark plug wire.
Move the wire and then the spark plug to another cylinder and run the
cylinder balance test again. If it follows the moved wire or spark plug,
you have found the problem. If the same cylinder fails the test again,
the injector is bad. If different cylinders fail the cylinder balance test,
you have ignition problems or wiring problems in the 10 pin black &
white electrical connectors located by the EGR.

How to do a compression test:
Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark
plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading.
Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent.
If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would
be a good tool to add to your collection.

With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the
throttle wide open, crank the engine until it the gage reading stops
increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good &
what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from
140-170 psi. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder
and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be
no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down
leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that
have more than 10% difference.

See the link to my site for details on how to build your own blow
down type compression tester.

 

[roached1]

jrichker, thanks for the info!

not to sound totaly stupid, but on a 95, where do I job to do the balance test?

 

[roached1]

never mind, The picture didn't load the first time

 

[roached1]

pulled plugs and number 3 was caked with oil. Hopfuly just a valve seal.

 

[91 HATCH]

it is normally the valve seals but i would do a compression test to