So after 160k miles... something let go **PICS**

#21
timing is 14 adv on 93 octane. The timing was set before i rebuilt the top end.. i never pulled the distributor or loosened the bolt on it so there would be no need to mess with the timing again right?

also.. is there supposed to be a vac line from my MAP to the intake? (i thought it was only for speed density cars) cause my MAP is just open.. no line from it.
 

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#24
If you're 100% certain that you have no vacuum leaks AND all connections are routed properly, then it might be an electrical issue. Did you reconnect the ground strap to the back of the intake manifold when you reattached it? I had an intermittent bad ground on the back of mine before, and it had symptoms similar to what you're experiencing (power loss, lumpy idle, but hitting on all cylinders); I replaced the braided stock strap with a 4-gauge cable to the firewall, cleaned up (sanded down to bare metal) both contact points, sprayed some anti-corrosive goop on there, and ta-daaaaa, it's been running like a top ever since then.

Verify that both your intake-to-firewall ground strap and your fuel injector wiring harness ground (also bolts to the back of the intake) are both connected, the contact points are clean, and the wires/connectors are in good condition. Also, it wouldn't hurt to check/clean your primary common ground on the driver's side fender near the starter solenoid and battery.
 
#25
i remember reconnecting 2 grounds (each from a different place) to the back of the head.. thats all the grounds i remember coming off... hmmm maybe it is a ground issue. the power loss.. lumpy idle, is exactly whats happening. oh i checked the battery and its at 12.48 with the car OFF. and with it running it goes from 13.40-13.50.
 
#27
You can have proper charging to/from the battery, but still have a faulty ground giving your system fits. Bad grounds make the ECM not want to play nice. Maybe double-check that primary/common ground and follow all the wires to make sure there's nothing pinched, rubbed/burned through, or corroded.
 
#28
well i cleaned the main ground by the battery (there are also 1 or 2 grounds coming to there from the e-fan setup but they are not actually plugged in yet). Also there is one ground coming off i guess the injector harness?? and it goes to the back of the head. and then from the head to the firewall... are there any other grounds?
 
#29
also 1 more quick ques. If i have the timing mark on the balancer at 0-zero then the rotor should point 180* AWAY from the number 1 cylinder on the cap right? Im just trying to check to make sure the plug wires are on there right. I mean i know the firing order is correct but i just wanna make sure i dont have it 1 over or something (dont even know if it would even crank up like that)
 
#30
Thats just telling you that you are TDC on the exhaust stroker for # 1 right now instead of the compression stroke. You should still be fine. Your best bet is to put # 1 on TDC for the Comp stroke and restab the dizzy to be sure. It will only take you a couple minutes. Being off a tooth is just a PITA. Good luck man
 
#32
god this car makes SOOOO mad.. like i love it to death.. but i have days where i just wanna burn it to the damn ground. I missed the car for 2 months while i was re-building it and instead of hoppin in it after putting it back together and driving away into the sunset (LOL) i get a car that runs like ****. i know you guys know what im talking about
 
#33
Yep. My car's being a bit fussy, as well, because it's doing that part-throttle stumble crap again that it was a year or so ago. Either I need to clean up my grounds again, or my EGR valve is getting gooped up once more. And here I was thinking I'd just about gotten the thing to a point where I could just gas it up and drive it on weekends without needing to work on it three hours for every hour of road time. :rolleyes:

Have you already checked the TPS voltage, by chance?
 
#35
Hmmm ... what about running a compression check? If you're getting adequate fuel, consistent spark, and you're 100% certain there's no vacuum leaks, that'd be about the only other thing left that I can figure as a possibility. The numbers should be pretty consistent across all 8 cylinders - if you get low numbers on that same cylinder that you had the fouled plug, then it might be something very, very unpleasant...
 
#36
BigHairyMonkey said:
i wish i could afford a full engine rebuild.. id love nothing more in fact. But like usual i have no money. Im nearly broke just buying the necessities to put it all back together. Plus it is MY ONLY mode of transportation to/from work/school. So i've been pretty much bummin rides for a month and am sick and tired of it.
Click to expand...

find a explore motor...better heads intake TB ect. can be found for 500 complete
 
#37
Quite honestly it sounds like you need to get your head out of your arse. Being profane and whining about your problems is just immature.:notnice:

At what point do you take responsibilty and realise that it's not the car fault that it broke. Seems incredibly stupid to run it without a working fan, then rip on it after running the interstate, then to tear it down without trying to see where it was leaking in the beginning... Even if you had to pull the upper you could pressurise the radiator to see where it leaked from. Dude, you are pegging the idiot meter, sorry, just had to rant a little after reading this thread...

If you're nearly broke just leave it parked and get something that runs until you have the funds to fix this right. If it overheated you may have done something bad to the bottom end. The contamination on the #2 plug has been building for a while. It may also be electrically related. Did you disconnect the 10 pin connectors? Did coolant spray on everything. It's hard to help without being there so you need to step back and think about what would cause your symptoms and troubleshoot it from there. And if anything throw your electric fan in the garbage where it belongs and put the factory stuff back on. Also reset the FPR to 45psi no vacuum and see if it helps. How does it drive? Does it buck or carry on? Does it idle smoothly? Or is it just weak under WOT? Answer these questions and you may get some better help.

Jamie
 
#38
Ranchero5.0 said:
Quite honestly it sounds like you need to get your head out of your arse. Being profane and whining about your problems is just immature.:notnice:

At what point do you take responsibilty and realise that it's not the car fault that it broke. Seems incredibly stupid to run it without a working fan, then rip on it after running the interstate, then to tear it down without trying to see where it was leaking in the beginning... Even if you had to pull the upper you could pressurise the radiator to see where it leaked from. Dude, you are pegging the idiot meter, sorry, just had to rant a little after reading this thread...

If you're nearly broke just leave it parked and get something that runs until you have the funds to fix this right. If it overheated you may have done something bad to the bottom end. The contamination on the #2 plug has been building for a while. It may also be electrically related. Did you disconnect the 10 pin connectors? Did coolant spray on everything. It's hard to help without being there so you need to step back and think about what would cause your symptoms and troubleshoot it from there. And if anything throw your electric fan in the garbage where it belongs and put the factory stuff back on. Also reset the FPR to 45psi no vacuum and see if it helps. How does it drive? Does it buck or carry on? Does it idle smoothly? Or is it just weak under WOT? Answer these questions and you may get some better help.

Jamie
Click to expand...

whining on here makes me feel better ass :D cant whine to the old lady.. she doesnt know wtf im talking about. Cant throw the e-fan away because i never had a stock clutch fan when i bought it. How does it drive? Its bucks alot at part throttle usually below 2k and it feels very weak at WOT. Sometimes it breaks up more than other times.. like i will be on the freeway at a steady 1800rpm in 5th and it it'll just start bucking.. ill let off get back into at it and clears up. It idles like ****.. rock steady at 750rpm but it hits like a cam.
 
#40
The fifth gear deal sounds exactly like mine when the blower tube comes loose at the throttle body. The AF goes rich and it bucks hard. Make sure the MAF is plugged in and working, I've seen the same on NA cars with fubar MAF ckts
 
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