Hey everyone, been a while since i've posted on here but I'm finally saving up enough to tackle the 11 year long dream of finally getting to build my car the way i want to. I know I've got a long road ahead but i was just wanting ideas from all who have more experience with this sort of stuff. I have a 67 coupe and am wanting to go the whole way. New rear end, new brakes and suspension, new tranny, new engine, interior work and finally all the body work and paint. I'm guessing that's probably the best order to go? Where should i start with the rear end? I'm not interested in digging through junkyards to find parts so where should i look for a built one? I've checked the obvious ones like currieenterprises. Anything else to look at? What about the transmission? I'm thinking of the TKO 500 as i'm looking for a crate engine in the 400 HP range. Any problems mounting the TKO's in a '67? Any good advice for crate engines? Again, i know there are countless directions to go in i'm just wanting some opinions! I want to do everything the right way so quality is a top priority. Thanks so much for all of your time and information!!!!!
Almost gametime...
- Thread starter Beef97
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
wicked93gs
15 Year Member
I recomend fixing any rust you have before anything else....since everything else goes on after...suspension would be my next area of focus(front and rear) I'm assuming that with currie you have only looked at the 9" rear end right? have you considered a 8.8" from a late model? I have an '84 Lincoln rear end in my '66 and love it...comes stock with rear discs...and just because the unit comes from a junkyard doesnt mean its junk...you can always build it up without any issue...parts are easy to come by.....I wouldnt even bother with a TKO unless your aiming at upwards of 450HP....while the torque rating on a WC T5 is 300Ft/lbs...I know people with 500+HP still using a T5...but they also dont abuse the hell out of it...I'm using a T5 on my build and my ultimate goal is 400HP...though my engine is a lot less torquey than a 5.0L....anyway after suspension, then tackle the engine/tranny combo, then move to the interior...paint/body work last, thats the way I would do it if I were smart...but I started with the drivetrain...well, after I fixed the rust anyway
wicked93gs
15 Year Member
zookeeper
Founding Member
I'm just now putting the finishing touches on my 5 year project '68, and I did it in a different order than you're planning. The very first thing I did was body and paint.It's a very, very dusty, dirty job and I didn't want to get sanding dust and over spray all over a new interior and detailed engine. The next step for me was the engine. I pulled it during the repaint and painted the engine bay the body color, so all the wiring and brake lines were removed. So I cleaned and replaced everything, plopped the new motor in and detailed everything. Next came the interior, I did everything but the seat covers myself, including the the headliner and window reinstallation. Now everything looks fresh and new without one step causing me problems with another. When we did my wife's '69 Corvette a few years ago, we did the interior first, follwed by the engine, then paint last. I didn't paint that car, and when we got it back the interior was very dusty from all the block sanding and the motor was mess from over spray, even thought the painter masked it was well as he could. Over spray gets EVERYWHERE on a car, so when I painted my '68, it was a bare shell with nothing to get overspray on. I didn't think that up on my own, I got it from watching "Overhaulin'" every week and that's how they always did it, so I just copied their method.
I agree, that's the best way to go. Fit all of your new parts, being especially careful to roll your fenders if needed with your new wheel/tire/suspension combo...then tear it all down and send it to rust repair/body/paint.
You can detail and restore all of the parts you are going to re-use while it's in paint. Then just reassemble everything and you are good 2 go!
Unfortunately, paint and bodywork prices have skyrocketed (Thanks to Overhaulin!)
I paid $4,500 for show quality paint and body work. The only real body work required was fitting the fiberglass decklid and front apron...they fit like crap out of the box.
I'd expect to pay well over 6K for the same paint job nowadays.
If you have time and patience, you can do a lot of the body and prep work yourself and save a bunch of money.
CraigMBA
New Member
If you want the car super tight, I'd build the whole drivetrain and fit it all in first. Drive the car around a couple of hundred (thousand?) miles and then buckle down and do the paint.
I'd start paint by taking the whole car apart and bagging and tagging it, rotesserie the car, and have it media blasted, paint it, and then screw it back together.
Anyway, that's how I'd do it.
My paint/body bill is currently at 5K for the body work, 800 for the prep, plus about two grand in parts, and I haven't painted it yet. Yeehowza......
I'd start paint by taking the whole car apart and bagging and tagging it, rotesserie the car, and have it media blasted, paint it, and then screw it back together.
Anyway, that's how I'd do it.
My paint/body bill is currently at 5K for the body work, 800 for the prep, plus about two grand in parts, and I haven't painted it yet. Yeehowza......
zookeeper
Founding Member
Materials alone for my '68 were around $2,500 and I did all the work including spraying myself at home.
CraigMBA
New Member
Yeah, that can be pretty standard.
I'm painting mine 2003 Ford Competition Orange CY and I figure my bill will be about a grand, plus almost that much for the guy spraying it.
My car is in the body shop right now. I did some of the work already, rust repair, patch floor pan and quarter panel. He is going to get everything straight and spray it for me. I will be very happy if the bill comes out under $7,000. He is planning on show quality work since the shop is pretty new and wants to build a reputation. I think it is cheap for the quality of work I am expecting.
CraigMBA
New Member
I bought a gallon and a half of Imron and all the materials to shoot my car in 1984 for under $170.
Today forget it. You can't even buy that stuff anymore.
But the paint is much better.
Today forget it. You can't even buy that stuff anymore.
But the paint is much better.
Similar threads
