What size Radiator will I Need?

[MustangMatt1966]

Hey guys, quick question. The time has come to get a new radiator and I am going to buy a jegs universal and make some mounts for it. Question is do you think its a good idea to take the battery tray out to get more room or is this un-necessary. I have the battery in the trunk but the trey is still up there, seems like it requires a lot of work to remove it. Second question is what size do I need. Sizes are poseted below. Thanks.

Matt

# Ford/Chrysler-Style Aluminum RadiatorOverall Size: 22" x 19"
# Core: 16.875" x 17.5"

# Ford/Chrysler-Style Aluminum RadiatorOverall Size: 24" x 19"
# Core: 18.875" x 17.5"

# Ford/Chrysler-Style Aluminum RadiatorOverall Size: 26" x 19"
# Core: 20.875" x 17.5"

# Ford/Chrysler-Style Aluminum RadiatorOverall Size: 28" x 19"
# Core: 22.875" x 17.5"

# Ford/Chrysler-Style Aluminum RadiatorOverall Size: 28" x 16.5"
# Core: 22.875" x 16.5

# Ford/Chrysler-Style Aluminum RadiatorOverall Size: 31" x 19"
# Core: 25.625" x 17.5"
Oversize - Ground Shipping Only

 

[MustangMatt1966]

bump? anyone?

 

[SoCalCruising]

Look, you need a radiator the same height (or VERY close) to what you now have. Measure it. Going to a larger rad without cutting (widening) your radiator opening isn't going to do too much (going to a good aluminum one will, however). So, figure out how much you are going to cut and see how wide a rad will then fit (rad's active area width). Then you still have to figure out how to mount it in your new opening. So, there isn't much we can tell you - you have to figure this out based on what you plan to do.

 

[iskwezm]

If you go with a 28X19, you will have to cut the rasied portion of the radiator support not only for air flow but also moves the radiator 2+ inches away from the engine to allow for more room.I did mine, its not a lot of work, but it time consuming

 

[BullittStangV8]

What I did was measure the area between the frame rails (meaning the area from the bottom wall of the battery "apron" to the drivers side fender wall), then I measured the height that the radiator could be. Meaning the height from the frame sectio that triangulates in the front, to the height of the old radiator top. This gave me a max width and height for the WHOLE radiator. Not just the fins area. I got one that was a little less wide then the max it could be. My radiator covers up the whole stock opening, and then a couple inches on each side with fins. (some of the fins are blocked). I then just went to home depot, found some "J" brackets, and cut them down as needed to make a top and bottom supports. I will need to open up the front opening most likly to get the max cooling out of it, but if it runs cool Ill let it go. Its actually pretty easy. Also, make sure you get the right inlet/outlet sides. For depth, you may need a shorter fan spacer if your radiator is too wide. I was fine, as it had about 1'' of clearance between the blades and the fins.

Just saw the above post. By not removing my raised section of the old radiator support, mine does sit 2 inches further back then if it were cut out.

 

[MustangMatt1966]

thanks guys, sorry for the confusion....one question i do have though is how to go about removing the old battery trey, it looks to be heavily welded in there, how do i get that sucker out without causing damage to the wall of the engine bay?

 

[SoCalCruising]

The stock battery support/tray is held in with 2-3 fasteners - not welded in place. Mine was pretty corroded and I replaced last year, so I remember. If yours is welded in, it's not standard.

 

[BullittStangV8]

Yep. its bolted in. You can get at the nuts from the understide.

 

[SoCalCruising]

Pass. side fenderwell.

 

[BullittStangV8]

Yeah. I forgot to clarify my term "underneath".

 

[MustangMatt1966]

thanks a lot guys, you are really a life saver and I have learned so much from you all over the years I have been here...thus the reason I can do this radiator swap in the first place...

Matt

 

[enferno]

i bought the 19"x25 3/4"x3" summit brand alum 2 core radiator.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-380325&N=700+115&autoview=sku

all i had to do was shave off a bit of the battery tray and it fit fine. i used the summit brand universal brackets and a bit of fab work to make it fit. just used a sawsall on one edge and it was like butter.

i have a '66 mustang with a 289, so i needed a 30" flex hose for the bottom hose . .it was $60 at kragen for a nice metal one.

the top hose i used a 14" or 16" hose i think, just the rubber flex ones with a spring inside.

i can take pics if you want.

just make sure you don't go thicker than 2.25" or higher than 19.

with the new hoses and fluid, the whole set up cost me $230 or so. the direct fit radiators, which are smaller, but do fit, cost $290+, not counting hoses and fluid, plus they are a lot smaller.

i can drive my car, with a half fan shroud and a 160 thermostat in 110 degree weather, in gridlock traffic, for almost an hour and barley reaches 200 degree engine temp with this radiator.

 

[JDS68Stang]

thanks guys, sorry for the confusion....one question i do have though is how to go about removing the old battery trey, it looks to be heavily welded in there, how do i get that sucker out without causing damage to the wall of the engine bay?

If that is welded in like you think and you grind it out, make sure you wash off ALL the metal filings that will be all over the fenders etc... right after. I recently cut/ notched out the AC platform base, had rain the next day and every filing was rusting everywhere, fenders, bumper etc... Better to learn from others mistakes than yours.