How much HP.... 302

Dugan

Dugan

New Member
Mar 21, 2007
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Portage Mi
#1
i have a 67 mustang with a 68 302 4bbl in it. the gears have been changed by a previous owner, the guy i bought it from didn't know what they were only that they are pretty low. ( like 4.56's or lower) it has headers, c4 tranny, edlebrock performer rpm intake, msd electronic ignition, automatic/manual valve bodies, and a B&M Quick Silver shifter, i was also told it had a mild cam. what would you estimate the HP and torque at?

thanks.
 

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#2
Not knowing what the motor's built from (cam heads carb, compression,etc) it's impossible to say. A mild cam ( I read that to mean an RV type cam) and the intake would only add maybe 50 horses to a stock motor (heads & compression) there, you're looking at 250-275.
 
#5
I would say 200 at the wheels might be accurate. It's not a roller motor right? A stock roller 5.0 puts out about 200 at the wheels, rated at 225hp. Your intake is helping, but not 50hp worth. Hard to say how well the cam is helping too, if it is a real small cam still, probably not much. There were many 302's that were under 200hp in the 70's and the only one above 225 has been the GT-40P motors in the explorers and the GT-40 motor in the 93 cobra.
 
#6
Fast63 said:
I would say 200 at the wheels might be accurate. It's not a roller motor right? A stock roller 5.0 puts out about 200 at the wheels, rated at 225hp. Your intake is helping, but not 50hp worth. Hard to say how well the cam is helping too, if it is a real small cam still, probably not much. There were many 302's that were under 200hp in the 70's and the only one above 225 has been the GT-40P motors in the explorers and the GT-40 motor in the 93 cobra.
Click to expand...

ok now i am alittle confused because you are talking about 302's from the 70s and up mine is a 68, stock rated at 230 hp and 10.1:1 compression
 
#7
oh, I'm sorry, I thought for some reason you had a transplanted 302 in there. But either way, I think in those days, ratings were too high. They also rated it differently, so compared to today's standards, it is probably more like 200 based on today's ratings. 230 may be accurate for flywheel horse, but you're definitely not putting that to the wheels stock. Since you have a 68 302 though, you'll be putting down more power compared to any other 302 up to 1985's roller motor.
 
#10
friend had a stock 69 302 dynoed, it made 173HP at the wheels, and 218ft tourque, it had a 4sp toploader behind it. this was in a 66 mustang with no power stearing or A/C, not much to start with but then again if they were, we wouldn't want to add our own touch to them.



Ford Kid
 
#11
65fast said:
If you are on stock heads, I would guess 200 to the wheels
Click to expand...

I was at a dyno day 2 or 3 weeks ago with heaps of mustangs.

From what I saw, if youve got a decent cam I think 200 would be spot on if everything is in excellent condition and its tuned perfectly. If its worn, tired or out of tune (rich/lean) then you will get less than 200 for sure.
 
#13
Dugan said:
really thats it?
that doesn't make sense to me though.. i thought a compeltly stock 302 had 230 hp...
Click to expand...

230 at the flywheel works out to roughly 184 at the wheels.

The only mods you mention that garuantee rwhp are intake and headers.
So I'll +1 on the 200 rwhp. Most of that coming from the headers.

Now if you find there has been some work done to the heads and an aftermarket cam, then you can bump it up more and more.
IF there has been no work done to the heads, an aftermarket cam will not do nearly as much for you.

Same goes for the intake and headers. They mean much more when paired with a small cam and ported heads. It's all relative.
A part is worth X amount of power by itself, but when grouped with matching parts, they are all worth their X amount, plus some.
 
#15
ratio411 said:
230 at the flywheel works out to roughly 184 at the wheels.

The only mods you mention that garuantee rwhp are intake and headers.
So I'll +1 on the 200 rwhp. Most of that coming from the headers.

Now if you find there has been some work done to the heads and an aftermarket cam, then you can bump it up more and more.
IF there has been no work done to the heads, an aftermarket cam will not do nearly as much for you.

Same goes for the intake and headers. They mean much more when paired with a small cam and ported heads. It's all relative.
A part is worth X amount of power by itself, but when grouped with matching parts, they are all worth their X amount, plus some.
Click to expand...

as i am sure you can tell i am pretty new to all of this. so i just have a couple more questions. what exacly is/is the difference between ported heads and non ported heads. also how much will the lower gears help my speed out, or are they hurting it?:shrug: :shrug: :shrug:
 
#16
what about my torque? and what is better torque or HP
i want to (eventually) make this a nice looking car that i can cruise around town in and have some fun from light to light, and occasionally take it to the strip.
where do i start on beefing it up, how much money?
thanks.
 
#18
Dugan said:
by the serial number stamped on the block?
Click to expand...

Serial numbers or casting numbers ? If there was a serial number on the block, it would be on the flat surface behind the intake manifold. The casting number and date code are located above the starter, facing down (with the engine in the car) Head casting numbers are located on the bottom side of the intake ports (on the heads) the date code is located inside the rocker valley, up next to one wall, accumulated gunk usually covers this, so you have to dig to see it. Date codes are a number/letter/number(s) combo, the 1st number is the year of the decade it was made, decade is determined by the 1st two characters of the casting number. The letter is the month, runs alphabetically with "A" for January, thru "M" for December, they skipped the letter "I". The last number or numbers is the day of the month it was made. If you cannot remove the intake or heads, it can sometimes be hard to Id the heads, it can be narrowed down with the date code, but with Ford using several heads in the late 60's for each model year, ID'ing it without the casting numbers can be a crap shoot. The 68 4 bbl 302 also used some specific parts to acheive the rating it had. These parts were different from those used on the 2 bbl motor, then to further complicate things, Ford was phasing out the 289 motor too in 68, so it's impossible to distinguish a 2 bbl 68 289 from the 2 bbl 68 302, without looking at the crank casting number. The parts that separated the 4 bbl 302 in 68 were the heads & intake, and possibly more, these two I know for a fact were unique to this motor. The heads were basically remakes of the 66 289 (C6OE) head with new casting numbers. The intake was as well , basically a recasting of the iron 289 4 bbl intake with 68 numbers (C8ZE-9425-A)
 
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