I know this has been Beat to death, but I'm still confused..

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I would try unplugging them if it was a little easier......just about the only thing that took me longer to plug those damn things back in was to remove the stupid hidden starter bolt...:notnice:

after I do the data logging this evening I'm just going to wait to talk to the sniper guys tomorrow to see if they've come up with anything......
 
ok.....

loaded a locked open loop tune yesterday. I got in the car and initially didn't think it helped worth a darn, but as the rpms hit 2000 it felt like it cleared it's throat. (which reminded me of your situation hotmustang) I only drove the car for about 3 miles, if I kept it above 2k I was ok. If anything these were the exact opposite results I would have expected. If anything I could see it driving better in low RPM's vs High?!?:shrug:

I guess at this point in time the bottom line is I have no choice but to believe the tune, or more than likely some sort of sensor in the closed loop system is malfunctioning. I didn't want to, but a trip to the dyno seems inevitable at this point in time. If I do have a malfunctioning sensor, the shop will be able to see where it's at with minimal time (hopefully)...whereas I don't think I'd have a shot in the dark. I see no other choice if I want to get the car running properly. I'm slightly worried about the Highway trip though.



What are your guys thoughts about limping down the highway?
 
You will be fine, just do not be making any wide open throttle runs or sudden engine rpm changes, just drive it like a granny...get it to the dyno session and hopefully solve your problem:nice:
 
ok.....

loaded a locked open loop tune yesterday. I got in the car and initially didn't think it helped worth a darn, but as the rpms hit 2000 it felt like it cleared it's throat. (which reminded me of your situation hotmustang) I only drove the car for about 3 miles, if I kept it above 2k I was ok. If anything these were the exact opposite results I would have expected. If anything I could see it driving better in low RPM's vs High?!?:shrug:

I guess at this point in time the bottom line is I have no choice but to believe the tune, or more than likely some sort of sensor in the closed loop system is malfunctioning. I didn't want to, but a trip to the dyno seems inevitable at this point in time. If I do have a malfunctioning sensor, the shop will be able to see where it's at with minimal time (hopefully)...whereas I don't think I'd have a shot in the dark. I see no other choice if I want to get the car running properly. I'm slightly worried about the Highway trip though.



What are your guys thoughts about limping down the highway?


I have seen post on here before about alternators (even though still charging) causing interference with the cam sensor causing the car to run rough , but they usually throw a check engine light , I wonder if yours could be doing the same thing but not throwing a light because you haven't driven it enough for the computer to pick it up yet ........just a thought ........I could be completely off base but from what I am reading its the only thing that came to mind .....Patrick at Sniper will get you worked out eventually im sure ....
 
Id still check out your 02s.. I burned my wires on mine last summer on my LTs and I never threw a code. I would suggest taking off your ebay intake as well if it has a bend before the MAF (it helped me out). Just throw the stocker on for now. Also, Id look into getting a dyno tune. With the amount of modifications you have I would really look into it.
 
^So your saying that the front 02s may not throw a code, even if they are malfunctioning?
Mine seems to go way rich around 1300-1700 at very light throttle inputs....somtimes I smell the gas. It stumbles at thos RPMs and again only at light throttle. If I give it 1/4 throttle from idle to 2K, it never misses a beat. So this HAS to be tune or sensor related in my case.
 
As the 02’s get older and dirtier the signal that they send gets less accurate. On a lightly modified car this might not become apparent until they fail and throw a code. On a car where every .xx in the A/F ratio matters, this will me more noticeable sooner. Buy a code scanner with real time monitoring ($129.99)and you can watch your 02’s work, not work or work slowly.
 
I skipped right through the posts and don't know everything you tried, but from that video, your car looks to be running rough (chrome CAI rocking).

Does it smell rich at idle?

You've had the car apart, so check to make sure all your wiring is hooked up tight in the connectors. Check all the ground wires to make sure they're bolted down tight and for broken wires.

Check your TPS and EGR.

Check your COP's to see if you have a misfire.

Check your fuel pressure and maybe change the fuel filter.

Is the MAF sensor clean?

Since you've had the battery unhooked so much, drive the car for a few cycles and let it learn everything. You may get a code after a few days of driving.

Hope that gives you some place to look and maybe narrow things down.