Door Lock Actuator Problems

Black Sun 5.0

Founding Member
Mar 23, 2002
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L.I., N.Y.
OK, so I don't know how I got myself into this situation since I've replaced actuators in the past with no real problems. I have two problems: 1 is that the driver's side door that I replaced the actuator in only locks, but doesn't seem to be able to unlock. Is there any way to make an adjustment? 2, I lost the little pin for the second actuator, fell out on a black leaf covered driveway. Anyone know where I can get one of these little pins? In a totally unrelated question, does anyone also know where I can get the little plastic/rubber piece that covers the end of the hood prop arm? I had a shop gouge out my freshly painted hood with it. Yeah, war has been declared. Thanks.
 
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1.) Use a test light to check and see that you have power in the unlock mode. connect the test light across the two pins inside the electrical connector for the actuator.

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems http://bellsouthpwp.net/l/r/lrichker/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $5. Fix one side for $18, do both sides for only $25. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

Here’s a picture of the new actuator installed:

actuator_install_in_door.jpg
 
There's power, it just seems that I didn't properly adjust something correctly when I put the new actuator in. You can see the door lock pulling down, but not far enough where the door is actually locked. As for the upgrading of the actuators themselves, this car is a garaged weekend car now, it was the previous owner's daily driver, so I'm hoping that lack of exposure to any elements will preserve these actuators a lot better.
 
Yeah I'm trying to get a handle on my door lock issues too. I have read jrichker's fix and I'm gonna go that route with his plan, but I want to try and remove the old actuator from the mount without drilling the rivet. Some mentioned they got them out easily by prying. What did you guys use? HISSIN50 you out there, what did you use?
 
I was able to resolve my issue and both actuators have been replaced. Be careful with prying, you don't want to bend or break anything. I've replaced old actuators without drilling, they pop just pop out by the rubber boots on each side of the actuator. Then, just pop the new one in. My problem was that I screwed up which hook I used and had to get it out. FYI if anyone was curious, I found the little divet that I dropped the week prior. I got lucky.
 
Typically, the actuator would have to be pulled down to pop it out. I tend to flip the mount over so the actuator stays in place better and doesn't come loose. If it's the original actuator, you should just have to push down on it. Just be careful, the mount is plastic.
 
Well I just went out there this afternoon and got it out. Not all the mounts are plastic from what I have seen, but mine are. I originally used my Dremel and cut off wheel to cut the twisted rod that comes out of the actuator and connects the locking mechanism. Since the actuator was frozen I need to release the tension by cutting it, which allowed me to lock the door manually. Anyway I couldn't get enough leverage pushing down on the actuator and tried several times. So I took a screw driver that allowed me to put enough torque on one side to slip the actuator out off one of the rubber grommets from the mount. I used it like a little pry bar but made sure I didn't put to much pressure on the mount. One side came out and made it really easy to slide the other side from the mount.
 
Good luck, the rest should be pretty easy. I don't know what replacement actuator kit you got, but the one I installed came with a variety of hooks. Don't make the make mistake I did with a "U" shaped hook, it caused all of my problems and was really difficult to get apart. Use the "S" shaped one, I think the stock one is the same.