A Good Combination!

I did a 3.89 gear change, an aluminum flywheel, and a SCT tune all at the same time on my '05 GT 5 speed. I also raised the idle RPM to 1000 to quicken the engine accel at the touch of the throttle. The engine does accel/decel much quicker. And, the RPM falls quicker between shifts - no more RPM hangup going up to the next gear.

I am VERY satisfied with the performance improvement but the factory tires are hating it - tire spin on demand in the first 2 gears.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Got a 900 HP street legal GMC S-15 Blazer for a race car.
 

Attachments

  • Pumpkin Blazer sm.jpg
    Pumpkin Blazer sm.jpg
    56.4 KB · Views: 105
The steroids that my Mustang got started when the local Ford dealer sent me an invitation to check out their new Roush Mustangs. My '05 was stock except for the Steeda exhaust that it got a week after I took delivery in late 2004.

I drove the Roush about 25 miles then disappointed the salesman when I told him I wasn't interested in the car because the car did not impress me. I told him that I could make a regular Mustang GT run that good for the street with a gear change, an aluminium flywheel, and a set of performance mufflers. Then I had to prove it to myself while I saved 20 few thousand dollars the deal would have cost me.
 
An aluminum flywheel is a lot better way to reduce rotating mass than the aluminum driveshaft - and it will last longer.

What? ... This statement confuses me... I understand that the flywheel is a better way to reduce rotating mass and why. But lasts longer? Last time I checked you have to machine that flywheel with a new clutch install, once you have a driveshaft installed you don't have to do anything to it....
 
The steroids that my Mustang got started when the local Ford dealer sent me an invitation to check out their new Roush Mustangs. My '05 was stock except for the Steeda exhaust that it got a week after I took delivery in late 2004.

I drove the Roush about 25 miles then disappointed the salesman when I told him I wasn't interested in the car because the car did not impress me. I told him that I could make a regular Mustang GT run that good for the street with a gear change, an aluminium flywheel, and a set of performance mufflers. Then I had to prove it to myself while I saved 20 few thousand dollars the deal would have cost me.

Just goes to show, the name ROUSH is worth a couple more thousands.
 
There are several reasons, in my mind, to not use a light driveshaft. The light materials fatigue and break more quickly, they are more easily damaged from contact, the riveted connections between the tubes and the steel yolks tend to loosen over time, and they cost a lot more. I'll stick with the steel driveshaft.
 
There are several reasons, in my mind, to not use a light driveshaft. The light materials fatigue and break more quickly, they are more easily damaged from contact, the riveted connections between the tubes and the steel yolks tend to loosen over time, and they cost a lot more. I'll stick with the steel driveshaft.

Fatigue really isn't an issue in street cars. First, there is no fatigue failure associated with carbon fiber. Second, most of the aftermarket aluminum driveshafts are larger diameter (most I've seen are 3.5 inches instead of 3 for the steel driveshafts), so that helps offset the fatigue issue. At the torque we are running, its not nearly an issue. Even if you were transmitting 400 ft-lbs of torque through the driveshaft, it would take far more than a billion full throttle starts for the driveshaft to fail due to fatigue. I don't know the wall thicknesses of these driveshafts, but the stresses the driveshaft is put under (with 400 ft-lbs of RWTQ) would worst case would be about half of the stress level required for fatigue failure at one billion cycles. Keep in mind, when you do a less than full throttle start (say all half throttle starts), the number of cycles before fatigue failure would SIGNIFICANTLY increase.