I think i just blew up my car with my new mongoose kit....

[cobra killer]

That's a common missconception. While this was normal practice for the old OBD I computer in the pre-96 cars, the OBD II doesn't need the extensive "learning curve" in order to function properly. They've learned all they're going to by the time you've reached the end of the street.

Who told you that????

The ford EEC on 96-08 mustangs has alot of ADAPTIVE learning tables that the car looks @ for quite some time. It takes a bit more time than just down the road.

 

[cobra killer]

Ok, so without going into a whole bunch of details, I got my kit put on over the week/weekend. You can reference some pictures here. I started it up in the garage with the tune tim provided me, and it ran like a champ in the garage. took it around the block, and it drove like it was stock! Took it out on the street and EASED on the boost. MAN it was awesome. I only hit about 5psi. Turn on the next street and get on it again, everything feels great air/fuel is 12.5 @ wot @ 4500rpms and then the car just shuts off.

I pull onto a gravel road and try to start it.. Nothing. I give it a little gas and it idles @ 200rpms REALLY rough with tons of smoke out the tail pipes. I checked all the vacuum lines and all the intercooler piping, MAF, IAC, IAT, and I cant figure out whats going on. Any suggestions?

I guess this was a bad idea on my daily driver

I knew what happened when I read your first post. I'm sure it scared the hell out of you.

Your A/F should stay below 12.0. You really need to dyno it or get someone to ride with you and watch the A/F.
The car will go off the chart lean the minute you let off the gas and hit open loop decel.

You really need to datalog LTFT,STFT,MAF counts,LOAD,battery voltage,fuel pump duty cycle, rpm and pressure across the injectors(Delta). I'm not concerned about spark because its setup not to go any higher than I want no matter what the load is.

It could be :
A: seeing to much boost and pegging the MAF.
B: battery voltage is dropping and leaning out the car
C: pegging your fuel pump
D: all is fine but you can't watch the A/F gauge and drive.

 

[cobra killer]

Datalog STFTs (short term fuel trims) and that will show you if your out of wack. Your EEC is using the front 02s to determine A/F for cruizing....your wideband should be hovering around 14-15 A/F durring normal driving or idling. Your STFTs should be hovering around 1.0 I believe.

Laser, check your Pms in a few minutes

Since your tuning now you really need to know this. Watch LTFT's as well. You can hover @ .96-1.05 STFT and the car can still be adding or subtracting to much fuel. LTFT's tell you the whole story.

 

[hotmustang331]

I knew what happened when I read your first post. I'm sure it scared the hell out of you.

Your A/F should stay below 12.0. You really need to dyno it or get someone to ride with you and watch the A/F.
The car will go off the chart lean the minute you let off the gas and hit open loop decel.

You really need to datalog LTFT,STFT,MAF counts,LOAD,battery voltage,fuel pump duty cycle, rpm and pressure across the injectors(Delta). I'm not concerned about spark because its setup not to go any higher than I want no matter what the load is.

It could be :
A: seeing to much boost and pegging the MAF.
B: battery voltage is dropping and leaning out the car
C: pegging your fuel pump
D: all is fine but you can't watch the A/F gauge and drive.

I take it you set up the MBT spark tables to the spark limit you want?

 

[hotmustang331]

Since your tuning now you really need to know this. Watch LTFT's as well. You can hover @ .96-1.05 STFT and the car can still be adding or subtracting to much fuel. LTFT's tell you the whole story.

Thanks Tim!...I have been giving the car some time to build up its adaptive readings and I forgot to check LOL.

Wasnt it +1 LTFT is rich and -1 LTFT is lean?