Heavy hesitation during Acceleration

shlby123

Founding Member
Apr 19, 2002
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Dallas
Hey fellas. I have a '93 2.3 Convertible that I just picked (trying to save from parting out if possible) and amongst the money things on that need some work are the idle and acceleration issues it has. When I'm at stoplights the tach suck downwar FAST to right around 300-400 RPM and just baaaarely stays running, but hasnt ever just died on me yet. (Car is a 5 speed) And when I try to accelerate in any gear I get heavy hesitation border-lining chugging as I try to move. The only time it does not happen is when Im doing 60-70 on the highway and then it's great. Anybody have a list of all the different things I should check/replace? please.:)
 
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Hey fellas. I have a '93 2.3 Convertible that I just picked (trying to save from parting out if possible) and amongst the money things on that need some work are the idle and acceleration issues it has. When I'm at stoplights the tach suck downwar FAST to right around 300-400 RPM and just baaaarely stays running, but hasnt ever just died on me yet. (Car is a 5 speed) And when I try to accelerate in any gear I get heavy hesitation border-lining chugging as I try to move. The only time it does not happen is when Im doing 60-70 on the highway and then it's great. Anybody have a list of all the different things I should check/replace? please.:)

I would do a complete inspection of the ignition components. Check timing, and maybe even inspect the timing belt for wear. I would look out for vacuum leaks too. Those can make MAF car's run screwy. Then you could test fuel pressure, compression, maybe even do a fuel injector balance test.
 
how do I do a fuel injector balance test? Is that strictly for a shop?

Depends on your ability. It requires a tool that connects to the injector, and a fuel pressure gauge. What you do is prime the fuel system, then use the balance tester to pulse each injector, and then measure the fuel pressure drop on each injector. Best way is to prime the system per injector to make sure you get accurate readings.
I haven't found a cheap balance tester yet, I've been thinking about just making one. If I get around to it and it works good I'll post a DYI write up. I don't think they are all that expensive, but nor are they complicated.

*EDIT*, oh, and check the codes if you haven't yet :)
 
It really sounds like an ignition problem. Maybe the Ignition Module?

He would have a DIS module. And usually when those go out the tach starts reading 50% less than actual engine RPM right? It's been awhile since I trouble shot a 2.3 but I believe that's what mine did.

I have two DIS modules I need to find homes for if anyone needs one. PM anytime.