what supporting mods would i need sc content
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HGFireHazard
Member
Certainly some goodies.
At the very least a FMU. I highly suggest getting bigger injectors which also requires a MAF. Some people disagree and say the FMU is fine, but if you ever want to run something more (H/C/I, for example), you'll need the injectors and MAF anyway.
You'll need the vortech bracket and the misc bolts, nuts and spacers required to physically mount the unit to the car.
A larger fuel pump is a good idea and a AFPR while not necessary, also a good idea. An intake for the s/c unit and if you're installing it yourself a few specialty tools to get the job done.
I think buying a kit is the best way to go. Superchargersonline (where I got my entire package from, s/c included) has an install kit that costs $1,800 and has "everything you need minus the Vortech supercharger and the electronics. **NOTE: Will come with FMU and Larger Fuel Pump. Boost Retard Box is not included."
So, for $2,600 you could have all the parts to install on your car. If you need a MAF/injectors you're looking around adding up to $500-600 (depending new or used stuff), and a tune/chip, which could be $400 to upwards of $1,000 (depending on professional tune or tweecer).
I'm sure you were hoping for much less but in reality this is the stuff you need to make it work and make sure your Stang handles the boost.
As far as additional goodies just for more fun, a AFM power pipe usually adds 2 psi to whatever pulley you're using. It's a 4" cold air intake for the s/c and allow the regular 8# pulley to generate around 10# of boost. You will want to look into a pcv valve that goes to a factory boosted vehicle. I found one at my local autozone that only required me to cut an inch or so off of the hosing and it fits the factory grommet and no longer receive blow by.
At the very least a FMU. I highly suggest getting bigger injectors which also requires a MAF. Some people disagree and say the FMU is fine, but if you ever want to run something more (H/C/I, for example), you'll need the injectors and MAF anyway.
You'll need the vortech bracket and the misc bolts, nuts and spacers required to physically mount the unit to the car.
A larger fuel pump is a good idea and a AFPR while not necessary, also a good idea. An intake for the s/c unit and if you're installing it yourself a few specialty tools to get the job done.
I think buying a kit is the best way to go. Superchargersonline (where I got my entire package from, s/c included) has an install kit that costs $1,800 and has "everything you need minus the Vortech supercharger and the electronics. **NOTE: Will come with FMU and Larger Fuel Pump. Boost Retard Box is not included."
So, for $2,600 you could have all the parts to install on your car. If you need a MAF/injectors you're looking around adding up to $500-600 (depending new or used stuff), and a tune/chip, which could be $400 to upwards of $1,000 (depending on professional tune or tweecer).
I'm sure you were hoping for much less but in reality this is the stuff you need to make it work and make sure your Stang handles the boost.
As far as additional goodies just for more fun, a AFM power pipe usually adds 2 psi to whatever pulley you're using. It's a 4" cold air intake for the s/c and allow the regular 8# pulley to generate around 10# of boost. You will want to look into a pcv valve that goes to a factory boosted vehicle. I found one at my local autozone that only required me to cut an inch or so off of the hosing and it fits the factory grommet and no longer receive blow by.
PUNISHER RACING
Active Member
Assuming it comes with all the brackets and pullies and belt. You would need a 255 intank pump an adjustable regulator and atleast 24 lb injectors and mass air along with some Autolite 23 plugs.
holy crap. i figured it would be expensive, but not that expensive. i dont have that kinda money right now.
its just the actual supercharger and pulley from what it looks and he says you need the bracket.
is the v2 a decent unit?
if i wait i'l probably end up buying a supercharger anyway, but if its worth it i can wait till something better comes up or buy new when i have the cash.
i also do need a new fuel pump sometime soon, so when i decide to upgrade that should i upgrade to a 255 pump?
and yeah, i was hoping for cheaper, but i don't want cheaper if its not going to work as well. i'd rather spend the extra money to get something that i wont have to replace later down the line for something better
its just the actual supercharger and pulley from what it looks and he says you need the bracket.
is the v2 a decent unit?
if i wait i'l probably end up buying a supercharger anyway, but if its worth it i can wait till something better comes up or buy new when i have the cash.
i also do need a new fuel pump sometime soon, so when i decide to upgrade that should i upgrade to a 255 pump?
and yeah, i was hoping for cheaper, but i don't want cheaper if its not going to work as well. i'd rather spend the extra money to get something that i wont have to replace later down the line for something better
HGFireHazard
Member
The V2 is a decent unit. I'm assuming it's an S-trim? The only real difference between the V1 and the V2 is the noise of the supercharger. The V1 (like I have) makes a whine around idle, whereas the V2 (sq-trim) is more of the sleeper model.
You can upgrade to a hp 255 pump without any consequence if your plans include boost in the future. If you aren't going to boost you could use a regular 255.
That website I listed earlier has the full package for $2,800 or so, which I think is only $200 more for a brand new supercharger which, depending on the use of that used charger, is probably a good deal.
Unfortunately a lot of horsepower usually doesn't come very cheap.
You can upgrade to a hp 255 pump without any consequence if your plans include boost in the future. If you aren't going to boost you could use a regular 255.
That website I listed earlier has the full package for $2,800 or so, which I think is only $200 more for a brand new supercharger which, depending on the use of that used charger, is probably a good deal.
Unfortunately a lot of horsepower usually doesn't come very cheap.
ah the v2 isn't what i want then, i want to hear the sound of the whine.
and it doesn't specify if its the S trim or not on the listing. I feel more comfortable about just fronting the money for a new one if its not much more, since this guy doesn't seem too bright from looking at his spelling.
and it doesn't specify if its the S trim or not on the listing. I feel more comfortable about just fronting the money for a new one if its not much more, since this guy doesn't seem too bright from looking at his spelling.
I assure you ..... You ain't the first to think along those lines
I been in this hobby for a long time :Word:
and
I've never seen a way to make big power cheap
I would tell you I really don't like running mega high fuel pressures that go
along with the FMU method
With tiny 19's ... it really gets up there
If you could find some OEM inj's like 24's or 30's from a junk yard for a
attractive price ... Well ... then you could run a disk in the FMU to match
them and the pressure would not be nearly as high.
Yes ... even with the FMU .......
it would be best to go to a 255lph in tank pump
You most likely would peg your OEM meter
so that would require an upgrade
You most likely would encounter spark blow out
so that would require an aftermarket ignition
There is more to be sure ... but ... you get the idea
If you wanna Play ... You gotta pay
O Yeah! ... About wanting to hear the whine and your budget
Go to the junkyard and find an alternator with bad bearing
You won't ... Be Fast ... but you'll ... Sound Fast
Grady
haha well what i meant by the whine, was, that if i was going to run a supercharger, i would definitely want to be able to hear it.
i realize powers not cheap, but i saw this price and thought it was a better deal then it really is, is what i meant. without putting everything together, that looks like an awesome price. then after added up, its not as good a price as i thought.
of course, if i wanted that whine i could just do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nnzw_i4YmKk
hahahah.
in your opinion, what would be easier, with more power. H/C/I swap, or a supercharger kit?
what would be easier to tune?
i realize powers not cheap, but i saw this price and thought it was a better deal then it really is, is what i meant. without putting everything together, that looks like an awesome price. then after added up, its not as good a price as i thought.
of course, if i wanted that whine i could just do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nnzw_i4YmKk
hahahah.
in your opinion, what would be easier, with more power. H/C/I swap, or a supercharger kit?
what would be easier to tune?
PUNISHER RACING
Active Member
I think I just pissed myself dude those homies are killing me, then they take off and almost crash their jitny................priceless
Seeing how you are new to the site and all
I don't wanna just tell you we've done this topic many times before
so
Just search up the details
but
We really have and we have given V E R Y specific details all about it
A link for you to a helpful past thread shortly
Just as having a blower is only the tip of the iceberg
Having a pair of heads ... a cam ... and an intake ..........
Well ... that also is only the minimum ... or ... Your only getting started
There is absolutely no way to get to BIG power with our 94-95
Stangs without compromise of some kind and I ain't just talking $$$
More Power ... BIG Power ... causes weakness to show up in ............
Unibody
Suspension
Drive train
Cooling system
OEM pcm programming
etc etc etc
Now lets talk money
Lets look at a few options many have done
If a tight budget is in place ............
1) You look at the OEM NA route of GT40 stuff for 260rwhp give or take
You want more ... so ............
2) You look at the aftermarket NA route for 300rwhp give or take
I'd not call #1 or #2 ... a BIG power option really
but
#1 is where most start :Word:
Thing here is ... if you do #1 first ............
Is the additional money spent to get the power of #2 worth it
Only you can answer that
Now here is where I believe ... It gets silly
Remember ... We're talking about reasonable money and a street car
Many have done #2 ... and then ... Go to a blower
That puts you over the limit of block splitting power
for an OEM block
I say to stay within reason
Look for around 400rwhp give or take
A) Do up an all motor 347
or
B) Do up a bolt on blown or turbo combo
Last thing here is ...
A or B won't be a viable option for one who only has his Stang for a dd
So ............. "Know what I mean Vern?"
You just can't escape those dad gum compromises
Here is the link to that old thread
Hope it helps you to see ..... A bit of reality
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=702728
Grady
I don't wanna just tell you we've done this topic many times before
so
Just search up the details
but
We really have and we have given V E R Y specific details all about it
A link for you to a helpful past thread shortly
Just as having a blower is only the tip of the iceberg
Having a pair of heads ... a cam ... and an intake ..........
Well ... that also is only the minimum ... or ... Your only getting started
There is absolutely no way to get to BIG power with our 94-95
Stangs without compromise of some kind and I ain't just talking $$$
More Power ... BIG Power ... causes weakness to show up in ............
Unibody
Suspension
Drive train
Cooling system
OEM pcm programming
etc etc etc
Now lets talk money
Lets look at a few options many have done
If a tight budget is in place ............
1) You look at the OEM NA route of GT40 stuff for 260rwhp give or take
You want more ... so ............
2) You look at the aftermarket NA route for 300rwhp give or take
I'd not call #1 or #2 ... a BIG power option really
but
#1 is where most start :Word:
Thing here is ... if you do #1 first ............
Is the additional money spent to get the power of #2 worth it
Only you can answer that
Now here is where I believe ... It gets silly
Remember ... We're talking about reasonable money and a street car
Many have done #2 ... and then ... Go to a blower
That puts you over the limit of block splitting power
for an OEM block
I say to stay within reason
Look for around 400rwhp give or take
A) Do up an all motor 347
or
B) Do up a bolt on blown or turbo combo
Last thing here is ...
A or B won't be a viable option for one who only has his Stang for a dd
So ............. "Know what I mean Vern?"
You just can't escape those dad gum compromises
Here is the link to that old thread
Hope it helps you to see ..... A bit of reality
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=702728
Grady
94Silverbullet
Member
you can hear the whistle on a V2. it makes lots of power with the right parts.
I also have some used 42# injectors for 1/2 price. see sigggy.
I also have some used 42# injectors for 1/2 price. see sigggy.
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