antifreeze in my oil

stevesLX

Member
Nov 12, 2006
373
0
16
cincinnati
O.K. guys I need some help here. I put a set of GT40P's on my car back in Sept. I noticed that the car started to have some cooling issues after that. I have a autogauge Temp gauge that is mechanical and the needle would go all the way up to 220 or so and then go right back down to 140 or so. This would happen right after I start the car and drive for only a couple miles if even that far. And it seemed the harder I drove the car right after starting it the more it would do this. One day I drove the car about 1 mile after it sat all day and I turned it off to get gas. As soon as I started it , the guage shot straight up to like 240 and no matter what I did I couldn't get it to come down. The pressure in the radiator was ungodly. So I noticed that the radiator smells like exhaust. And I have a steeda air filter on ther to catch oil from my pcv valve and every once in a while after you drive the car, that has some oil in it along with milky stuff. Not ever alot of it but a little here and there. So I have kept driving the car, racing it until OCT. and I even had it dynoed. I have sprayed the car on the dyno and about 6 passes back in Oct. I am still driving the car today. I still have the exhaust smell in my cooling system. Whats this sound like. A head issue or a block issue. I have pulled the heads once already and had them milled just to rule out any warpage issues. I did that back in early Oct. I have changed the oil and it looks fine. Oil on the dipstick is fine. It makes no sense to me.
 
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definitly sounds like a head gasket, there is pretty much no other way the oil can mix with antifreeze unless u have a crack or hole inside the block which i doubt. Please tell me you didnt reuse the old head gaskets? If you didnt tq them right or out of sequence that would also ruin a head gasket.

Also, have u changed ur oil lately? If antifreeze is mixing in somewhere, the oil will also be milky and u will be losing antifreeze because it will go into the cylinders. Also look at ur exhaust on a hot day and see if u can see white smoke coming out. Be careful tho, if it is cold condensation inside the exhaust it will blow white smoke as well. If it is blowing smoke, take a wiff and if it smells like coolant its def a head gasket.
 
Yeah, it definitely sounds like a head gasket problem to me. The excessive pressure in your radiator and the smell of exhaust fumes in it gives it away. Pull the heads off, get new head gaskets, and make sure you get ALL of the old gasket material off. Best thing to use in my opinion is scraping with a razor blade. Scrape until it's all gone. Yes, it's time consuming and tedious, but at least you know it's done right. That's how I did mine and have had no problems at all. Also when you put the heads back on be sure to use pipe thread, pipe dope, or silicone on the bottom head bolt threads, and torque all the head bolts to 65-72 lb/ft. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure thats the torque spec on the head bolts.
 
Well I do have new head gaskets on there. I had the heads milled and I also have brand new ARP head bolts and they are torqued to the manufacturers specs along with ARP moly lube and thread sealent. I have changed my oil and and its just oil. It looks fine. I have no white smoke that comes out my exhaust other than when its cold out. I dont have any EGR stuff on the car anymore. The car still has plenty of power. The car runs 12's on motor consistently and I drive it everyday. This has been going on since Sept. of last year. I just cant figure out why my little oil seperator bottle gets funky chocolate milk in there every once in a while. For instance, I drove the car last night and I parked it. I go out this morning and drive the car 3 miles to go wash the car(I dont know why because its 30 degrees in Cincinnati right now) Before I washed it I poped the hood and looked at the bottle and it was light chocolate milk shake looking on the very bottom and down the sides of the bottle. So I pull the dipstick and the oil looks fine. I pull the oil cap off and oil on it and on my rockers I could see looks fine. I give up.
 
As Punisher stated water can indeed get in the combustion chamber via the intake gaskets. I once failed to retorque my lower intake after a head swap and that's exactly what I got.

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Also when you put the heads back on be sure to use pipe thread, pipe dope, or silicone on the bottom head bolt threads, and torque all the head bolts to 65-72 lb/ft. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure thats the torque spec on the head bolts.

If they aren't torque to yield bolts then the torque for the head bolts is 80 lb/ft for the upper and 70 lb/ft for the lower. Don't forget to oil the treads of the upper bolts and the heads of the lower bolts

Torque to yield bolts are torqued by the following procedure.
First torque all bolts to 25-35 lb/ft
then torque all bolts to 45-55 lb/ft
finally tighten al bolts an additional 1/4 turn (85-95°)

As Punisher stated water can indeed get in the combustion chamber via the intake gaskets. I once failed to retorque my lower intake after a head swap and that's exactly what I got.

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This is true. I needed to retorque my lower three times before they were all at 25 lb/ft. If you only go once around when torquing you lower intake you are just asking for trouble.
 
Well I paid a guy to do a complete reseal kit on the motor but I know he didnt pull the heads off. I didnt have issues before he worked on it but the day I got the car back noticed the milky stuff with droplets of possible antifreeze in my oil separator. He did pull the intake and replaced gaskets. Ill start by removing the intake and hopefully identify the leak.
 
I would not do no more than 18-20 ftlbs.
I actually retorqued mine 5 times over a 1 hour time frame while I was reassembling the rest of the engine.

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Ford Service Manual states:

Tighten bolts in two steps:
First step 20-27 Nm (15-20 LB-Ft)
Second Step 31-34 Nm (23-25 Lb-Ft)