Drive line /9 inch help

[Harndog]

I need to take my rear yoke off the pinion shaft to take to the drive line shop so they can build my drive shaft for me. Can I just remove the large nut and remove the Yoke or will I mess up the seal by doing this?

 

[D.Hearne]

You might need a puller to get the pinion yoke off after removing the nut. LAst one I did had to be removed that way. Don't sweat the seal, that'd be a good time to change it anyway. All you really need anyway is the old U joint to get the right size for the new shaft. Or just measure across the yoke from side to side, inside the ears in the "U's" and the "U" radius.

 

[Harndog]

Thats the bad thing I did a aod swap and the original c6 and drive shaft was stolen from my old garage so I do not have the old u joint. I have a puller and bought a socket today to fit the nut. I had th whole pinion out about a year ago and had the seals replaced so it may not be to bad. I did measure it the way you described but the shop in Tulsa just said it would be better to have the yoke???

 

[gsxrken]

Don't take that yoke off the rear end unless you are prepared to buy a new crush sleeve and know how to set it up properly with an inch pounds torque wrench etc. If you take that nut off, your chances of putting in back in with the proper bearing preload is basically zero, and you'll have a noisy rear end that will drive you nuts.
You should be able to measure the characteristics of the yoke and the driveshaft place should know which u-joint they need to use. Usually they will ask you for a measurement from the back of the cups in the pinion yoke to the front of the tranny yoke cups when the tranny yoke is like an 1-1/2" from bottoming out. But that's just one way, and make sure to go by however they like to measure them up.
But save yourself the headache of having to bother with the pinion preload,

 

[D.Hearne]

I just swapped the yoke on the 9" in my 77 Comet and have had no problems from retorquing the nut. Done this on 8.8's too.

 

[Harndog]

What is the correct tourqe settings

 

[gsxrken]

I just swapped the yoke on the 9" in my 77 Comet and have had no problems from retorquing the nut. Done this on 8.8's too.

I hear what you're saying, but you getting away with it doesn't mean he will get away it, or that you will the next time.
I'd rather give him the tech, like is shown here http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/065/article/Ford_9_Inch_RebuildGear_Setup.html
and then let him choose to abandon it if he wishes to.

 

[reenmachine]

There's no reason in the universe for you to have to take the yoke off to get a driveshaft made. I wouldn't trust a shop that didn't know what they were doing enough to just tell you what to measure. It's not complicated at all. If you want, call me on Monday, I'll tell you what to measure, and you can tell them what you need. Alternatively, I can ship you a custom driveshaft if they won't play ball.

-Pete
805.648.7336

 

[D.Hearne]

I hear what you're saying, but you getting away with it doesn't mean he will get away it, or that you will the next time.
I'd rather give him the tech, like is shown here http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/065/article/Ford_9_Inch_RebuildGear_Setup.html
and then let him choose to abandon it if he wishes to.

All you have to do is check the torque figure before removing the nut,(put the wrench on and try to tighten till the click) then torque it back to the same figure. Once that crush sleeve is compressed it takes a lot more torque to compress it further.

 

[fasttback]

It does seem odd the shop need a yoke to make a driveline. All they need to know is the u-joint size itself and the length for your application.

As others have stated, you can remove the yoke, but if your rearend is running a crush sleeve you will have to match the original torque setting that it was set up with. This is so you don't deviate too far from the specs. This can be done, but there is always some risk it won't be exact (you won't be able to measure in/lbs resistance with the rearend together).

If you ever have the rearend rebuilt just change the crush sleeve to a solid spacer and never worry about "over crushing" the spacer again.

Good luck with your project.

 

[Harndog]

Thanks guys got to thinking this morning. I measured the Yoke went o Oriely's had them pull some u joints out for a 9 inch rear and measure the u joint a 569 was the size that fits. So looks like I can get them started. Get the DS back and the new H pipe fabed up then I can do the break in on the new motor. YES!