New Engine - FR, Keith Craft or Smedding?

[palerider94]

I'm planning on putting new motor in this summer and had it narrowed down to 2 choices:

Keith Craft or Smedding 347


But was looking at Ford Racing 342 and just got off the phone with the tech guys and they are estimating it at 375HP and 400lbs torque.

Torque about same as Keith Craft and Smedding - less HP (25 to 50hp).

I know with the Ford Racing I need to swap out water pump - but have a polished Weind on current 302 - so not that big of deal. Will also need to swap out pan and put carb on but could put in Canton and still be $1500 cheaper than Keith Craft of Smedding.

Looking for a streetable weekend driver that I can take to strip - once in a great while. Don't have the the time to build my own. Since I'm going to be keeping the car as far as I can see out - don't mind spending a little more on quality but within reason.

What do you guys think?

Ford Racing
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=160199024505&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=006

Keith Craft
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=180173457524&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008

Smeding
http://www.smedingperformance.com/347extreme.htm

 

[67topless]

I am in the same boat you are... I've done quite a bit of research and I am leaning very heavily in the DSS Racing corner. I've talked to them on the phone and exchanged e-mails; seem like a great shop.

I'm looking at their Pro series long block with AFR 185's for just under $5,800.

http://dssracing.com/newprobullet.htm

There are quite a few forum members running DSS setups... haven't heard anything negative yet.

I hope to make my purchase the first of March... got my fingers crossed.

 

[mannyjoe]

I used Coast High Performance for my 342 stroker. This was a new brand block and forged pistons etc. very cost effective for me. I would use them again in a heartbeat. HTH.
mannyjoe

 

[palerider94]

67topless - do you have a full spec sheet?

 

[coolblue65]

I am in the same boat you are... I've done quite a bit of research and I am leaning very heavily in the DSS Racing corner. I've talked to them on the phone and exchanged e-mails; seem like a great shop.

I'm looking at their Pro series long block with AFR 185's for just under $5,800.

http://dssracing.com/newprobullet.htm

There are quite a few forum members running DSS setups... haven't heard anything negative yet.

I hope to make my purchase the first of March... got my fingers crossed.

I have a DSS 347 and am extremely happy with the engine. I ran 13.2@109 my first time out to the track with it untuned and on street tires. It has a TON more in it (Should be low 12s if not high 11s with slicks) and its great on the street, never lugs like the 289 did and- I got 21mpg and a 250 highway cruise in 5th gear.

 

[67topless]

67topless - do you have a full spec sheet?

PRO BULLET Max Quench/IN: 331 cid short
block for use with most inline valve cylinder
heads and will accept large cams and large
valves. Balanced to racing tolerances and
blueprinted, forged DSS Pro Series pistons,
assembled in a Level 10 CNC block with the
billet aluminum Main Support System installed
with custom ARP main studs.
*LIMITED TIME OFFER, FREE UPGRADE TO
PRO-X FORGED PISTONS - This upgrade
includes an ultra-lightweight design, bigger valve
reliefs, and a hi-tech/low-drag ring package.
SPECS: BLOCK: Level 10 CNC block - deck
equalized and squared, deck plate bored and
honed in CV616 with sub 10 micron filtered
man-845 honing oil, and numerous other CNC
operations. RODS: forged 5.315" I-beams w/
ARP bolts & full floating pins, CRANK: nodular
iron 3.25" stroke, PISTONS: forged Pro-X #
4110 (Max Quench/IN -13cc), RINGS: moly
E-458K, ROD BEARINGS: tri-metal CB-634P,
MAIN BEARINGS: tri-metal BC240J, CAM
BEARINGS: tri-metal CC440

LONGBLOCK UPGRADE: Final assembly of a
shortblock with heads, rockers, and all other
necessary parts listed below to complete the
longblock assembly. This critical step in the
assembly process is the key to long life and
maximum power. Checking and correcting
rocker arm geometry, adjusting pushrod length,
and setting lifter pre-load is very time consuming
but pays big dividends in power and longevity.
These often overlooked steps are included in this
longblock assembly.​

CYLINDER HEADS: Air Flow Research 185 -
1422 (58cc) CAMSHAFT: Ford Racing TIMING
CHAIN: Pro Gear 3-position double-roller
430HDSTK LIFTERS: Ford Racing RETAINING
HARDWARE: Hydraulic (when necessary)
PUSHRODS: 4130 .080" wall seamless HEAD
BOLTS: ARP 8740 hex head bolts HEAD
GASKETS: Fel-Pro graphite 8548 PT2 ROCKER
ARM STUDS: Upgraded to ARP studs
ROCKER ARMS: DSS aluminum roller rockers
T-WASHERS: 1/2" to 7/16" reducer bushings
cylinder heads (where applicable)​

Upgrade to premium hyd roller camshaft listed
below​

Comp Cams XE274HR installed with a
double-roller timing chain (.555"/.565"
224°/232°@.050" 112°LSA 2200-6200RPM)​

I believe that is the jist of the long block... I had a couple of other things added into the quote that I am still considering such as an SFI balancer, flywheel and Oil pan.

Scott

 

[classic boost]

i would seriously consider a local engine shop. getting engine problems fixed from another state is a hassle & expensive. if you have a problem, it's nice to be able to take care of it face to face.

 

[S-Car-Go]

I couldn't agree more with classic boost!

After start up my rear main started to leak. The owner of my local shop came to my house and replaced the rear main and thrust bearing while the motor was still in the car (I dropped the pan). Turns out the tranny input shaft was hitting the back of the crank (not his fault). This would have been much tougher to solve if it was a mail order motor.

 

[palerider94]

I just called local builder for kicks. Told him generally what I was looking for dart block, AFR heads milder cam, etc. and he is going to work something up. I'll post once I get - I need to do some research to see what kind of rep they have but seemed pretty knowledgeable - although would not take much to snow me.

One thing I did not consider was that I was leaning toward stroked 302 since I wanted to resue some of my newer parts (waterpump, distrib, headers, and alternator) sounds like I still can if I go 351 based. I'll have to decide advantages of 302 vs 351 - maybe another post.

 

[66 GT FB Rus]

I went with Smeading 347 and am very well pleased. It is dyno'd and most of all he uses brand new blocks and gives a 2 year warranty. If I had to do it all over again I would do the same thing because my 347 is dyno'd a 422 and 415lbs or torque. Location was not a huge concern but shipping was also free to Virginia as long as it is delivered to a loading dock.

Call and speak with Ben the owner and builder of each motor.

 

[67topless]

...One thing I did not consider was that I was leaning toward stroked 302 since I wanted to resue some of my newer parts (waterpump, distrib, headers, and alternator) sounds like I still can if I go 351 based. I'll have to decide advantages of 302 vs 351 - maybe another post.

I was wanting to stick w/ the 302 block because I figured it would be an easier direct replacement for my 289 rather than putting in a 351. Heck, I figure I am going to have more power than I am going to be able to stick to the pavement anyway.

From what I understand, it is easier to harness more torque w/ the 351 than the 302. I'll leave the true comparisons to the experts...

 

[palerider94]

I went with Smeading 347 and am very well pleased. It is dyno'd and most of all he uses brand new blocks and gives a 2 year warranty. If I had to do it all over again I would do the same thing because my 347 is dyno'd a 422 and 415lbs or torque. Location was not a huge concern but shipping was also free to Virginia as long as it is delivered to a loading dock.

Call and speak with Ben the owner and builder of each motor.

I was leaning real heavy toward Smedding also for same reasons you gave.

 

[jasonn]

I just called local builder for kicks. Told him generally what I was looking for dart block, AFR heads milder cam, etc. and he is going to work something up. I'll post once I get - I need to do some research to see what kind of rep they have but seemed pretty knowledgeable - although would not take much to snow me.

One thing I did not consider was that I was leaning toward stroked 302 since I wanted to resue some of my newer parts (waterpump, distrib, headers, and alternator) sounds like I still can if I go 351 based. I'll have to decide advantages of 302 vs 351 - maybe another post.

Just keep in mind, a dart blocked quote will be WAY higher. Dart blocks start at around $2000 for a bare unfinished block. With the hp you are looking for and if you don' t plan on power adding it, it would be a waste of money. Stock block will handle what you are planning and then a bit more. By the way, go 351 based stroker if you are starting from scratch. Probably hardly much more money (if at all) and WAY bigger power.

 

[palerider94]

Thanks Jason you're right about the dart block. Was getting a little carried away. It will be interesting if builder comes back with same opinion.

 

[69gmachine]

i would seriously consider a local engine shop. getting engine problems fixed from another state is a hassle & expensive. if you have a problem, it's nice to be able to take care of it face to face.

The flip side of using a local builder is not all of them know what they're doing. The local guy who put my engine together didn't adjust the valves right and the #5 cylinder never lit off. He was a young man who had just started his own shop, and I wanted to give him some work. Unfortunately, when I tried to get him to help troubleshoot, he was already out of business and left the state. Eventually I figured it out, but only after I over-revved it and had to tear it down for inspection. I guess the moral of the story is that you need to verify the local shop is reputable and knowledgeable. Talk to previous customers to see if they're satisfied with both the product and the support after the sale.

The power on just 7 cylinders was still more than anything I had ever driven before

 

[Aussie Mike]

I was thinking of using FRP's 347 Boss with the Z heads part no. M-6007-Z347 but now I'm leaning toward forking out for a specialist engine build not necessarily in Australia.

Anyone had any experience with MCE out of LA? They seem to get a lot of features in the Ford/Mustang related mags as a class act.