I've got the "CLUNK"!!!

2002 GT

I'm trying to find a clunk noise coming from the front end. It only seems to do it at low speeds like pulling into my driveway. It will do it in forward or reverse motion, But only when i brake hard at low speeds.

I've searched all over the intraweb and seems that this is a common problem, however noone seems to post what actually FIXES the problem.

I have checked the brakes and rechecked them. I don't see anything else visually wrong. I checked the ball joints the way my hanes manual says and they seem fine, no movement. I've been told that i need to have the brakes bled with an "NGS" machine, as there was alot of air in the lines when I got the car, I have bled the master cylender and all four courners till I get no air out of them. However i was told the ABS pump could have air in it, hence the need for the NGS machine.


I installed new offset poly rack bushings. Removed front sway bar. So far no luck, still clunks.

NOW, the car does have Eibach pro kit springs on it and what appears to be stock shocks (82,500miles on chassis). Springs where installed by previous owner. They look fine, and do have the isolators installed.



Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Matt
 
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lol @ NGS. i dont think ours still works its so old. the NGS was the old old ford scan tool because the WDS and the current IDS or PDS. that being said you dont HAVE to go to a dealer to get the HCU bled, just use any scan tool with ABS solenoid cycling ability. i have never heard of a lack of propler bleed causing a clunk noise.

i know my mustang used to clunk all the time, but i had coilovers. you might want to check the control arm bushings.
 
lol @ NGS. i dont think ours still works its so old. the NGS was the old old ford scan tool because the WDS and the current IDS or PDS. that being said you dont HAVE to go to a dealer to get the HCU bled, just use any scan tool with ABS solenoid cycling ability. i have never heard of a lack of propler bleed causing a clunk noise.

i know my mustang used to clunk all the time, but i had coilovers. you might want to check the control arm bushings.

I didn't think that lack of proper bleed would cause it. I was giving as much info as i could think of. My friend works for the power company and they have an NGS for their truck shop, he said he would borrow the NGS for me to use. It does have a really soft brake pedal, thats why i'm wanting to do the whole ngs brake bleed thing.
 
Installed new Tokicko HP "blues" shocks/struts all the way around tonight.

Still clunks.

I picked up some new rack bushing brakets today also. I'll install them tommorrow and see how that does.

only other things I can think of would be:
control arm bushings
tie rod ends
ball joints
brakes
 
my car used to do this, and it turned out to be the a-arm bushings, the stock rubber ones were worn, and letting the arm move slightly, causing the noise, installed some urethane ones, problem solved.
 
Ther are a few a-arms out there that work with the stock k-member I think MM and AJE (?) make them. I have to fix the clunk too on mine but am 99% sure its the worn inner tie rod. I have the brake rattle too, are the anti-rattle clips part of the pads or do I buy them seperatly?
 
I have the PBR dual pistons also. The anti rattle clips should be mounted when changing pads. Most aftermarket cobra pads do not come with the clips. A lot of people end up throwing out the old ones with the pads by mistake and do not re-use them. The result is a horrible clunking/rattling sound going over even small bumps at low speeds.

You should be able to test them by simply applying the brakes and seeing if the noise persists with the brakes engaged moderately.

I found a cobra brake hardware kit at O'reilly Auto Parts for about $6. It includes new pins, e-clips, and anti-rattle clips for both front calipers. Was a cinch to install and made a HUGE improvement!
 
My 95 developed it before i sold it. I replaced the lower ball joints, and still had the clunk at low speeds during braking. Mine would also pop a couple times real quick. But i sold it before fixing it.
 
I think i found the problem maybe. I was reinstalling the front swaybar and I got to looking at the control arm bushings. The passenger side rear bushing has a gap the size of maybe a penny from between the rubber bushing and the metal of the k member. I checked the bolt but it was already as tight as i could get it. The gap is on the rear side of the rear bushing. The driver side does not look like this.

I tried to get some frpp (03-04 cobra) control arms since they come with new bushings and ball joints that are both supposed to be better then the GT ones, but FRPP is out of stock on them till maybe next week.

So I'm looking at just getting some tubular ones if i can use them with my stock K-member and later on with a tubular K.