Infiniti wants to race me...what do you think?

Dugan

New Member
Mar 21, 2007
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Portage Mi
didn't know where to post this..sorry if its in the wrong section..
Ok. a teacher at my school has a 2003 Infiniti G35 sports coupe with limited slip diff. and the "performance package" it is all stock.

I have a 67 mustang coupe, 4bbl 302 (from a 68) slightly built C4 tranny with shift kit, and B & M quick silver shifter, holley 600 cfm carb. Edelbrock performer rpm intake, 1 inch carb spacer, and the guy i bought it from says it has a mild cam in it..i don't know for sure though. and the gears in the rearend (9 in) are low. (i dont know how low, i suspect 4.11s or lower)

He wants to race me, do I stand a chance?
here is what he said his car cam do.
0 to 100 in 9.2 seconds.
100 to o in 6.3 seconds.
0 to 60 time 5.1 seconds.
280 HP at the wheels.

what do you think the outcome will be? I do not know wheather his is a manual or automatic.
 
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If your car is even close to stock you're toast. The G35 is basically a 350Z, they run low to mid 13s in the right hands, they'll give an '05-GT a run for their money. Even the big-block 67 Mustang can't touch them unless it too has been worked, they ran mid to high 14s back in the day and the 289/302 were low to mid 15s.

But don't get down on the old pony, with a few over the counter parts you can destroy that japtrash, and cost less than half what he paid for his ride :D
 
If he's getting 280 to the wheels you'll have to get about 300 to beat him. On a solid axle car with an AT that means you're gonna want about 400fwhp to be sure.

There are all kinds of recipies here on theses boards for getting that figure. in my opinion that is pushing the limits of a 302 if you want to to be easily streetable, so the first things i'd recommend is getting more displacement, either stroke the 302 or get a 351W. If you can locate a 351W block you can hit the 400fwhp figure with ease, 500fwhp is a breeze too if you stroke it to 408/427 cubes.

If you put about $4-7K into the motor (heads/cam/intake/exhaust/ignition) and get a loose converter for your C4 you can be in the low 12s (with some work on traction), that should put the guy with the $40K riceburner in his place :D
 
Because any good post is worth repeating ;)


"the 2003-04 model years, the V6 produced 195 kW (260 hp) and 350 Nm (260 ft·lbf) of torque in the sedan, 210 kW (280 hp) and 365 Nm (270 ft·lbf) in the coupe"
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infiniti_G35 (FWIW)

That is a far cry lower than 280 'to the wheels' however that his 'stock' car is putting out

Additional facts:
Drag times from both stock and mod g35 from 2003...
http://www.dragtimes.com/Infiniti--G35-Drag-Racing.html

I tend to think the slower the times, the stocker the car as well...in fact here is an entry that appears to somewhat truthful and clearly states the car is all stock
http://www.dragtimes.com/Infiniti-G35-Timeslip-14563.html

I see a 'reported' stock stick pulling a 14.2 in the 1/4
http://www.dragtimes.com/Infiniti-G35-Timeslip-3085.html
at just over 100 MPH....that is also a VERY far cry from 0-100 in 9.2 seconds

Looking at the faster times, I see things like cold air kits, exhaust kits, tire changes, suspension kits, and then power adders for the fastest times.

Now, assuming he really is stock and he is just an idiot he has a 14 second car the next step is to compare how you stack up:

Since your car is mod it gets a little harder but here is one 'comparable setup' in my opinion
http://www.dragtimes.com/Ford-Mustang-Timeslip-7526.html
so based on this (and my own pre-conceived estimate) you are also driving a 14 second car

My conclusion is it could be a fun race and would be won/lost at the lights. You can tip to your favor with some drag radials instead of the traction challenged TAs people seem to like to run on their old mustangs all the time ;)


The later gen 1 and gen 2 got a healthy performance bump...however the 03 gen 1 is the most anemic of the bunch
 
All the power in the world doesn't mean a thing if you can't transfer it to the ground properly. I'm going to suguest something totally different then everyone else... maybe.

I think what you should do is focus more on how your car delivers its power and making the motor efficient instead of just throwing cubic inches at the problem. Setup the rear suspension to deliver the power correctly for the type of driving you want to do with the car. Get some good tires on there and a posi out back with some decent gears, maybe 3.55s or 3.73s. If you are on a budget and know people that can port heads then you might want to get a set of junkyard E7TE heads and have them gone through/worked and bolt them on. Port matching the intake manifold wouldn't hurt.

Also, I think you should learn to drive your car. The driver is the single most important thing in a race. I've seen people driving Vetts that lose to cars that have no business beating them. Why ? Because some idiot with cash bought a status symbol and has no idea how to drive it. Learn where your car's power band is and when to shift it. Figure out how to launch it properly. Have fun with it =)

Whats your budget look like ?

There are a lot of different ways to make a car fast but the important thing is that once you decide which way you want to go with your car that you stick to a systematic approach. Lots of things work well but some things that work well don't work well with each other. Remember that.
 
dude race him have fun dont be too hung up on winning. ruty67 is 100% right learn to "launch" your car with a good reaction time. Also be sure to :Track: your young and dont want to be caught up in some street racing trouble. good luck chris
 
FWIW...I did mention working on traction...for under $200 you can make a leaf-sprung solid-axle grab pretty good, even more so with drag radials.

Also, goes without saying but I'm wrong for not saying it...only race with the appropriate safety equipment and personnel and...ONLY RACE AT A TRACK!
 
yea no worries there, we will be going to the track, or one of my friends has a lot of property with a long private road that used to be owned by a pharmaceutical (sp) company.

so chance of "getting caught" or "getting in trouble"

ehh. dodgestang thanks for posting...again...! haha.

as for my budget, it is pretty limited, i am only 17 so my budget consists of begging/convincing my dad for stuff for it =)
 
Since your 17, I would recommend a set of Summit brand 90/10 race shocks, some used DR bought off the web, disconnect the front sway bar, get a stall converter, and have at it. You have plenty of motor to beat him, now all you have to do is harness the power and not go broke or draw attention to yourself. Keep it on the track. I did the whole street race thing when I was your age and nearly killed myself a few (or more) times.
 
Do it for fun only. My neighbor has a G35 sports coupe. That thing is wicked fast. My friend has the new Cobra and he just barely beat him, and I mean just barely. Over a mile and that thing can rock. 11,000 RPM redline I think... it just keeps winding up. Very fun.

But, then again... anyone can mis-shift :rlaugh:

Have fun! That is what 17 is all about. My first car was a '68 coupe and it was fast: 13:68 in the quarters at highschool drags. :nice:
 
Do it for seat time at the track you may just surprise yourself and him. Make sure the car is running at it's best and let him have it. Have Fun as long as the teacher is not one of those guys who will rub it in your face forever.
 
what's the trick for these small engines being able to rev that high? old 302 is dying at 5500 when nissan just wakes up. And nissan has also good low end power. Why it is difficult to make 302 rev that high (even late roller cam engines) and at the same time not sacrifice low end power? Another nice example - new M6 and GT500. Nearly same weight and engines (M6 has even smaller and not supercharged) but still leaves ford miles behind.
 
Do it for seat time at the track you may just surprise yourself and him. Make sure the car is running at it's best and let him have it. Have Fun as long as the teacher is not one of those guys who will rub it in your face forever.

ohh he is one of those teachers...i will never hear the end of it. ohh well if he does beat me i will only be around for about 1 month as i will be graduating in may:rolleyes:
 
I'm gonna dispute the notion that the 302 is enough motor, even with total traction he's gonna pull you. In factory trim even the K-code produced 271hp, and that is NOT at the rear wheels. The teacher's car is getting 280 at the wheels.

The difference in the red lines has a lot to do with overhead cams versus pushrods and light weight reciprocating assemblies. The ability to rev comes with a loss of bottom-end torque though.

The idea of running nitrous is a good one, grenade your motor and maybe dad will buy the 351 for ya :D