REBUILDING BLOWN MOTOR

Circle D does make a good converter, a friend has a prototype 5disk on his small block turbo lightning running low 10's and it works great - he's switching to a circle D on his big block (8 second truck) when the current one goes. A buddy of mine just yesturday ordered a 4disk for his hci ls1 gto.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


going fully built tell me if i'm missing anything

ok so i'm starting the saveup for a fully built motor here is what i got so far tell me if i'm missing anything

MMR 900 Shortblock------ 2899.00
- MMR block side bolts(44.99)
- ARP mainstuds(169.99)
- MMR street/racing oil pump(179.99)
- MMR windage tray and hardware(129.99)
- ARP Headstuds(269.99)

MMR Stage 2 heads ------ 1399.00
MPH supercharger cams------599.99
8 rib setup-----??

ok that's what i got so far...if there is anything i'm missing tell me or if there is anything else i need to change or take off the list tell me... i want to push 550-600
 
I really hope you arnt buying what people say on SN not that they are wrong. Its gonna cost you, call MPH and talk to Tim. He will steer you right.

Actually, with that statement, that's exactly what you're saying! What makes you think Tim's going to steer him in any different direction that the one we're taking him in? If you think it's gonna be any cheaper going through him, think again. :rolleyes:
 
Actually, with that statement, that's exactly what you're saying! What makes you think Tim's going to steer him in any different direction that the one we're taking him in? If you think it's gonna be any cheaper going through him, think again. :rolleyes:

MPH at least lubes you up first, then RAM :rlaugh:

I meant exact specs on the Cams, compression -Dish of pistons. Since MPH is close he could give the input to get the most out of the setup he wants. :canada:
 
i think i can achieve the setup with less than 5k here. a friend and i are pulling the motor ourselves. the shop wants $700 to build the motor. the guy building it says that if i dont go to crazy at the machine shop i can get his labor and machine shop for 2k. internals i think i can get for under 2k. i dont know what these side block bolts are about so that would be great for someone to explain. so depending on what im doing with cams and valves and springs and lifters and such will determine how much i end up spending. then after the motor is built ill do the intercooler. some people are talkin about 7k for a motor build i think thats ridiculous. ill also look into the stall converter and triple plates.
 
2k for machine work? thats kinda steep. are you having your heads proted? You can get a whole rotating assembly from mmr for 1899 balanced and ready to install. you will need all new fasteners becuase 4.6s use bolts that have to be stretched witch makes them a one time use item. I would just upgrade to arp stuff that way you wont have to worry about them.
 
2k for machine work? thats kinda steep. are you having your heads proted? You can get a whole rotating assembly from mmr for 1899 balanced and ready to install. you will need all new fasteners becuase 4.6s use bolts that have to be stretched witch makes them a one time use item. I would just upgrade to arp stuff that way you wont have to worry about them.

no its under 2k for machine work and the labor of rebuilding the motor.
 
i dont know what these side block bolts are about so that would be great for someone to explain.
Those are called "jack screws" (specific to Romeo engines as opposed to "dowel pins" used with Windsors) and I'd suggest borrowing or buying yourself a detailed "FORD" shop manual (not Chilton or Haynes) that lists their torque and load specs along with all of the others. I used to remember them, but it's been a couple of years since I built my engine.

As darkside03gt stated, you're also going to need all new fasteners (main bolds, head bolts, etc) to put the engine together. The modular engines use torque to yield hardware which are throw away after they've been torqued down once. To be honest, I've seen people reuse TTY stuff before, but if you plan on generating a lot of power, I wouldn't chance it. Your rotating assembly will most likely come with beefed up rod bolts already. Most of your gaskets are reusable as well (pan gasket, timing cover, valve cover) so that'll save you a little in the cost. Just make sure they're cleaned up well and in good shape and to use a few dabs of RVT silicone where they intersect with one and other (timing cover at the top of the block).

Like I said, a detailed shop manual will really help you understand all of the specs you (or your builder) are going to need in assembling it. Not a lot of "old school" machine shops have tackled a modular rebuild, so it can be intimidating, but anyone worth thier salt in the industry should be able to accomplish it. I built mine along with my dad in the middle of the garage floor and his machinist skills originate back in the late 60's. :shrug:
 
Those are called "jack screws" (specific to Romeo engines as opposed to "dowel pins" used with Windsors) and I'd suggest borrowing or buying yourself a detailed "FORD" shop manual (not Chilton or Haynes) that lists their torque and load specs along with all of the others. I used to remember them, but it's been a couple of years since I built my engine.

As darkside03gt stated, you're also going to need all new fasteners (main bolds, head bolts, etc) to put the engine together. The modular engines use torque to yield hardware which are throw away after they've been torqued down once. To be honest, I've seen people reuse TTY stuff before, but if you plan on generating a lot of power, I wouldn't chance it. Your rotating assembly will most likely come with beefed up rod bolts already. Most of your gaskets are reusable as well (pan gasket, timing cover, valve cover) so that'll save you a little in the cost. Just make sure they're cleaned up well and in good shape and to use a few dabs of RVT silicone where they intersect with one and other (timing cover at the top of the block).

Like I said, a detailed shop manual will really help you understand all of the specs you (or your builder) are going to need in assembling it. Not a lot of "old school" machine shops have tackled a modular rebuild, so it can be intimidating, but anyone worth thier salt in the industry should be able to accomplish it. I built mine along with my dad in the middle of the garage floor and his machinist skills originate back in the late 60's. :shrug:


what is the purpose of the jack screws? i havent talked to the machince shop myself yet. tho i know a guy that works right beside them and is pretty good friends with them so i might be able to get it done cheaper.
 
the side bolts are the bolts on the side of the block that go to the main caps. the aluminum blocks are 6 bolt main, the iron blocks have 2 bolts on the bottom and 2 on the side. none are reusable. the MMR sode bolts are reusable, as are the ARP fasteners.
 
They're there to provide side stability and strength to the caps. Since the modular engines have the crank shaft recessed so high up into the block (unlike an OHV where the crank is located right at the bottom) there's no room to "cross bolt" the mains like there would be on say a 302Wor 351W bottom end. The jack screws (or dowel pins in the Windsor’s case) works much the same way to tie everything together.
 
i just found out that one of my buddies pulled a 4.6 out of a F-150. he says the heads are in great shape. since i have burnt valves on mine i thought that this might save me some money if i could use those heads with some machine work. does anyone know if these heads will work on my block. ford said that the item numbers were different but they didnt know what was different about them. if it is something like larger valves or something i would imagine that i could use them.
 
i just found out that one of my buddies pulled a 4.6 out of a F-150. he says the heads are in great shape. since i have burnt valves on mine i thought that this might save me some money if i could use those heads with some machine work. does anyone know if these heads will work on my block. ford said that the item numbers were different but they didnt know what was different about them. if it is something like larger valves or something i would imagine that i could use them.

All depends on what year F150 it is. It would have to be at least a 99-up I believe, to be worth while, since earlier ones used the Non-PI heads. And even then, I'm not 100% sure what year they started using the PI heads on the F150. Also, you'll need to keep in mind that the Ford Truck line-up uses a "Windsor" block, which tells me that your valve covers aren't going to fit, so you'll need a set from '99 or a '00 GT in that case. You could try using the ones from the F150, but the oil fill neck might be on the wrong side.
 
All of the modular parts over the years will fit....it just depends on whether or not they're what you need. If they aren't PI heads, then I wouldn't waste my time. If they are, then you're good to go. I'd first ask you buddy what year truck the engine was out of, then head over to http://www.fordf150.net/ and find out what year truck came with PI heads.....if it were my money. :)