No dash lights/exterior lights, but still headlights?

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
311
293
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Apache Junction, AZ
Been trying to figure out WTF is going on with Frankenstang's '89 notch, lately. For awhile, it was having a problem where when you flipped on the headlights, the dash lights wouldn't come on and neither would the parking lights on the front/rear, but the headlights DO come on. The brake lights work fine in either case. It used to be that you could simply wiggle the dial on the dashboard dimmer switch or beat on the dash underneath the dimmer and it would make them come on, but now ... nothing. The parking lamps and dash lights NEVER come on at all.

Fuses are all good, and the switch is good because we've swapped it out with two different switches and verified the old switch from the notch even works in her '80 Capri. Headlamp switch is brand new and seems to have no effect upon the situation, nor does the hazard/flasher switch or its connectors.

The dimmer switch and exterior parking lamps are on the same fuse, so something along the line there is kaput. Sooooo ... is there a relay under the dash for this circuit that could be dead, or is it just going to be a matter of chasing wires and looking for a bad ground or loose connection? :shrug:

This sucks, because the notch was to be her DD once she sold the '04, but with no lights (other than the headlamps, themselves), she can't legally drive the thing at night. :(

If anyone has a wiring diagram and/or pics showing where all the wiring extends to or ties in with under the dash (I could only trace the wires of the dimmer switch about 6" back until it joins up with that HUGE primary bundle of wires near the kickpanel), that would be awesome. :nice:
 
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With the light switch ON check for voltage at the T/W wire (input from fuse 4) at the switch then at the Brown wire (output from switch to many circuits). If you don't have voltage at the T/W wire and the fuse is good you have a bad connection at the back of the fuse box.

Also check that any wires are not loose and are locked into their connector.

I can get some diagrams posted, but they won't be up until later tonight.
 
Send me your email address and I will send you the complete wiring diagram set for an 89 Mustang. Stangnet's email gateway is too small to pass the 2.5 MB zip file. You will need WinZip or other archive tool to uncompress the files. WinZip can be downloaded from www.winzip.com or www.majorgeeks.com
 
Mine does the same thing, and I'm pretty sure it is the dimmer switch because I can move it until right before it "clicks" to turn the dome lamp on and it will work. Everywhere else on the dimmer and the dash lights and tail lights are off. My local police informed me of the situation a few years ago. I just haven't had a chance to replace the dimmer with a known good one.
 
Mine does the same thing, and I'm pretty sure it is the dimmer switch because I can move it until right before it "clicks" to turn the dome lamp on and it will work. Everywhere else on the dimmer and the dash lights and tail lights are off. My local police informed me of the situation a few years ago. I just haven't had a chance to replace the dimmer with a known good one.

We've already swapped out the switches, and verified in another Fox that the switches being swapped in/out of there are good. It's a short or bad connection somewhere, I just can't for the life of me find where the hell it is... :shrug:
 
Well let us know what you find out. I may tear my dash apart on spring break week to fix everything else (heater, ac, speedo, dash replacement, booster) so if it is something else, I'll take care of it at the same time.
 
It was suggested to me today by a co-worker to check the headlight switch. I told him it's brand new. He said to check it anyway. Might be a loose connection or something. It's worth a shot since we're out of ideas anyway. :shrug:
 
Short circuits blown fuses or make smoke or sparks. Bad or high resistance connections prevent things from working when everything seems normal.

Here is the headlight switch wiring for an 89 GT.

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Use the wire colors and circuit numbers to tell you what each wire does. Trace each circuit through it's path from source to end point.

Trace the power lead on the switch back to the fuse block. The use the diagram to make sure that there is power to both sides of the switch when the headlights are on. The headlights go through the turn/mulitfuntion switch to operate the high low beams. The plastic connector shell for it often suffers from the effects of overheating and cause the pins to get loose.
 
FWIW, I replaced the ignition switch in the notch in 2006 during that week-long episode where the thing up and died and I was beating my head against the wall, trying to figure out why it wasn't getting spark. (Turned out to be the pickup coil in the reman'ed dizzy.) Not saying it's impossible that the ignition switch could be at fault, but it hasn't had that much wear put on it since then.

Headlamp switch, itself, is new, but it's entirely possible that some wires have come loose from the backside of it when I replaced it. Almost half of the wires just pulled right out of the backside of the hazard and defog switch connectors when I was taking the dash apart one time, and I had to JB Weld the wires back into their correct positions on the connectors - maybe something similar's happened with the headlamp switch...? :shrug: Either that, or with the back of the fuse block, itself, as I may have bumped or nudged something outta whack the last time I was under there, fumbling around with stuff for one thing or another...
 
Finally figured it out. It's the headlight switch, after all. Stupid thing's not even 6 months old. :fuss: Basically, there's a hitch in it that will turn on the parking lamps halfway towards one position, then it shuts those off and turns the headlamps only on in the next position. If you just baaaaaarely hold it just between those two spots, you can get both the headlamps and the parking lamps to come on, which is probably why we were able to bump the dash and make it work before (bad connection within the switch). Stupid, stupid switch!! :fuss: (I have evil plans in mind for it involving a 5-pound BFH, a can of WD-40, and a lighter. :rock: )

FYI, **DO NOT** buy your headlamp switches from Autozone!! Sure, it's better to pay $23 than to blow $95 at Checker for the "same" switch, but for once I think this is one of those occasions where going with the higher-dollar stuff is the wiser choice. Besides ... Checker will price-match Autozone's stuff, anyway, so theoretically you could just get 'em to give you the $95 switch for $23. (I guess we'll find out when we go to get one tomorrow. :nice: )