Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser. Good spark from coil to block and plenty of fuel. Car cranks but will not fire. I am suspecting a bad distributor? Any other checks I can make? I do know that when the car was running I could advance the distributor by hand and there was no change in idle speed. The distributor has never been out of the car but could it have jumped a tooth or something?
72 302 Won't Start
- Thread starter Hawkk72
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woodsnake
15 Year Member
A good indication of a slipped timing gear is back firing thru the carb.
Did the car run before you did the tune up, or did you tune it up to get it to run?
Did you gap the points to the correct value?
Did the car run before you did the tune up, or did you tune it up to get it to run?
Did you gap the points to the correct value?
jikelly
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Sounds like a timing issue. You should set the engine to TDC and check the rotor position as suggested.
I always have to do that and then twist the distributor around to find the right spot to get the engine to run.
If you suspect your distributor's bad, pull it out and check to make sure the gear is still fixed to the distributor shaft. That's the only thing I can think of that might cause the engine idle speed not to change as you advance/retard the distributor.
I always have to do that and then twist the distributor around to find the right spot to get the engine to run.
If you suspect your distributor's bad, pull it out and check to make sure the gear is still fixed to the distributor shaft. That's the only thing I can think of that might cause the engine idle speed not to change as you advance/retard the distributor.
woodsnake
15 Year Member
After reading my earlier post, I jsut wanted to clarify that just because the engine might back fire does not mean that it slipped a gear. Any back fire is a timing issue. I guess the biggest difference is if when you make any adjustments thru the dist., the only thing that happens is a backfire.
It sounds like the timing may be a bit retarded. I think if you turn the dist clockwise, that will advance your initial timing. Just remember to make small adjustments, and you should be fine.
It sounds like the timing may be a bit retarded. I think if you turn the dist clockwise, that will advance your initial timing. Just remember to make small adjustments, and you should be fine.
Well, I bumped the starter and the rotor does point to the number 1 plug. Can't see the other numbers so I don't know if I'm at 0 TDC. Sprayed starting fluid into the carb which didn't help...not even a sputter. I checked and did have good spark to the plugs so we must be back to the timing thingy. If I remove the distributor I assume I would use some white-out and make a mark so it goes back in correctly? If I replace the distributor how can I be sure I install it properly...in other words, not 180 out? One more question...the car was converted from a 2bbl to a 4bbl...is the point gap still .017?
woodsnake
15 Year Member
From here, it sounds more and more like your timing gear in fact has slipped. Do you know the history of the engine? Has it ever been replaced? If so, when and with what kind of gear set?
Stock nylon, stock metal, dual roller?
To make sure you have it on #1, remove the number 1 spark plug,and cover the hole with your thumb. Bump the motor until the air "puufs" your thumb. That's TDC #1. Your rotor should also be pointed at #1 at this time. The 'indicator/pointer' on your dampner should be in the range of 0-10 degree mark, depending on how your timing is set.
"IF" you are on #1 cyl, rotor at #1, pointer 'close' on the dampner, then timing MAY not be the problem.
Do you have a well charged (at least 14V) battery? Good tight clean connections at the starter and on the solenoid? On the battery? Could it be that your starter has worn out? Does it sound like the engine really.really has to work to turn over when you are trying to start it?
Stock nylon, stock metal, dual roller?
To make sure you have it on #1, remove the number 1 spark plug,and cover the hole with your thumb. Bump the motor until the air "puufs" your thumb. That's TDC #1. Your rotor should also be pointed at #1 at this time. The 'indicator/pointer' on your dampner should be in the range of 0-10 degree mark, depending on how your timing is set.
"IF" you are on #1 cyl, rotor at #1, pointer 'close' on the dampner, then timing MAY not be the problem.
Do you have a well charged (at least 14V) battery? Good tight clean connections at the starter and on the solenoid? On the battery? Could it be that your starter has worn out? Does it sound like the engine really.really has to work to turn over when you are trying to start it?
Thanks...I'll try removing the spark plug and doing that test. The engine cranks easily with no hesitation so it appears all connections and the starter are good. As far as having the timing chain or belt replaced I don't know. It hasn't been done in the last 11 years which is how long I've had the car. Anyone know of a rebuilder close to Greensboro NC? I found one 45 miles away who will do the job for 800.00. I know the engine is tired and could use a trip to the powder room to freshen up.
woodsnake
15 Year Member
OMG!!!
800.00 for what!?!
A timing gear swap?? **** that! Go get the 200.00 sears tool box, a good 90.00 meter, and a 25. dollar chiltons and have at it!
800.00 for what!?!
A timing gear swap?? **** that! Go get the 200.00 sears tool box, a good 90.00 meter, and a 25. dollar chiltons and have at it!
woodsnake
15 Year Member
Also, you can pull both valve covers, and turn the engine over to watch your rocker arms working. If the gear slipped, and valves hit heads, the rockers will not move consistantly, because you now have all un equal length PR's.
If that is the case, then you will need to buy a torque wrench, as the heads will have to come off. If that's the case, you may want to rethink what you want from the motor, and the car. Rebuilding iron heads is expensive for what you get. And, "while you are at it, now is the time for" performance parts.
Something to think about.
If that is the case, then you will need to buy a torque wrench, as the heads will have to come off. If that's the case, you may want to rethink what you want from the motor, and the car. Rebuilding iron heads is expensive for what you get. And, "while you are at it, now is the time for" performance parts.
Something to think about.
One question: Is the distributor rotor pointing at the #1 plug, or the #1 terminal on the distributor cap? Big difference here and seems to be a common mistake for the uninformed. It should be pointing at the #1 cap terminal. And do yourself a favor and get rid of the points ASAP. .017" is simply a starting point for points adjustment, you need a dwell meter to accurately set them. Which can be a big pain in the asss. Replace them with any of the electronic conversion modules and set it once, then forget they're there.
Woodsnake, the 800.00 is for a complete rebuild of the engine which is what I thought was a pretty good price, depending on what he's going to do. I've emailed him for details but he has not replied yet.
DHearne, when bumping the starter the rotor points to the "1" on the cap. Thanks for the info though because I could have been a complete moron...you never know! Appreciate it.
I haven't had time to remove the number 1 plug yet and do the TDC check but hope to do that this weekend.
DHearne, when bumping the starter the rotor points to the "1" on the cap. Thanks for the info though because I could have been a complete moron...you never know! Appreciate it.
I haven't had time to remove the number 1 plug yet and do the TDC check but hope to do that this weekend.
woodsnake
15 Year Member
Depending on what comes with the rebuild, that might not be bad.
I still think you might be at least as well off just replacing the timing gear yourself...
Save up for a performance rebuild later if you want a "race" motor.....
I still think you might be at least as well off just replacing the timing gear yourself...
Save up for a performance rebuild later if you want a "race" motor.....
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