Rear susp. Much talk no facts?

NorwayRacing

New Member
Mar 4, 2008
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Hi I am a Norwegian guy whos planing to build a rear suspension.

My car. 1966 Mustang Fastback. 363cid 650hp + 150 hp NOS. 4-speed TopLoader.

I have been reading all these postst about rear suspension, but my question is, have anybody any experience in whats working and whats not?

Any sucess histories?

I mean the TCP G-link looks nice, but does it work with that much hp with slicks on the strip? How does it performe in roadracing?

The monoleaf! Same questions?

Whats the best alternative for an high end hp car? Without putting 15k in the back half of the car?

Many questions and probably many miss spellings, but I hope you understand what im looking for?

Anybody on the forum that got a 550+ hp car? That is working well?

Anybody on the forum that got a 550+ hp car? That does not work well?

Sincerely,
Magnus
 
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First, it is difficult to get one suspension that will work well on the strip and road course. I use the TCP front with double adjustable shocks, but still (with loose settings and front sway bar disconnected) not a good drag setup. You need to let the front rise up for drag racing, but that's not desirable on the road. I use Global West de-arched 5-leafs with Del-alum bushings on the rear. It's stiff and handles nice on the road and there's no wrap-up under hard acceleration, but I've heard very good things about the cal-tracks and would try them if I was really drag racing.
 
first recognize a few things;

1: any suspension system you choose will be a compromise.

2: the rear suspension is where you will get the most gains in handling performance and ride.

3: you are best off keeping the system as simple as possible. excessive complexity is your enemy.

given the above, the best set up will have good flexibility, will minimize pinion angle change, and minimize side to side movement.

the leaf spring suspension is reliable, minimizes pinion angle and side to side movement, but is limited in flexibility.

the parallel four bar is all of the above, but needs a panhard bar or watts link to limit side to side movement, and can be built for excellent adjustability.

the triangulated four bar doesnt need a lateral location system, but it is recommended. this system also lacks adjustability that the parallel four bar has, but induces binding depending on teh bushing material you use.

the three link system requires a lateral location system, can be as adjustable as teh parallel four bar, and does not have the binding the triangulated four bar has. this is a very good system to use, and in fact is used on the current mustang, and was used on baer racing's race winning mustangs.

the torque are suspension, like the three link, requires a lateral location system, but is not as adjustable as the three link, but is quite flexible. this is also a very good system to use.

personally i think the torque arm suspension is the most versatile suspension system to use overall. it will do the most with the least.
 
I think he is looking for first hand info on 550+ hp cars. There is only a one, maybe two cars on this site that make over 700hp. I don't think either of them hit the tires as hard as what Norway Racing is talking about. They are both turbo cars and are also 67-68 cars, which means more room for tires. I think it will be very tough to hook up 800hp on tires that will fit a 64-66 wheelhouse.
 
Brian is right. Both of us have sticks. We both have autos. I did get my 60 to a 1.52 with the nitrous and caltracs. But lots of guys run them with success, stick or auto. this is the gallery of cars that use caltracs. Without back halfing, it's pretty much your best shot. http://www.calvertracing.com/gallery/g_page1.htm
I'll be building a a turbo kit for a guy who is looking for 900rwhp and he's going for caltracs. It's not completely stock suspension thou. Mini tubs, leaf eyelets moved.
Is it really 15k for a back half out there ? I just finished one with the frame installed and sub frames for just under 2k in labor. I know you duty tax is outrageous though.
 
I mean the TCP G-link looks nice, but does it work with that much hp with slicks on the strip? How does it performe in roadracing?

Sincerely,
Magnus

The g-Bar is not intended for a drag-racing application with slicks. This is not to say that you can't use one in a car that occasionally goes to the track, but shocking the suspension in a stickshift or transbrake car with slicks is kind of outside the realm of what we intended for this suspension.
You can do a REALLY nice back half for $1500-$2000 worth of parts...and have a suspension that is intended for that kind of abuse.


the triangulated four bar doesnt need a lateral location system, but it is recommended. this system also lacks adjustability that the parallel four bar has, but induces binding depending on teh bushing material you use.

I am not sure who's system you are talking about, but our triangulated 4-link does not need, and we do not suggest you use another lateral locating system.
Ours also has quite a bit of adjustability, everything from IC to ride height, to shock angle. Also single or double adjustable shocks, adjustable anti-roll bar option, etc.
Our pivot ball link bars do not induce binding, they have a very large range of motion.
Again, if you were talking aobout someone else's system, my apologies, I just wanted to set the record straight on the TCP g-Bar
Tim
 
The thing i dont like about leafsprings and cal tracks is the lack of adjustability, I want a system that does great on the Strip and works ok on the tracks.

And the thing i like about a more modern system is that I can minitub the car later.

But in my search for a good system i feel like most of the bolt on stuff is more for show and 250 hp cars.

I feel like maby TCPs push rod system is the best out there, but its not optimal for drag racing.

So Im abit lost!
 
You need to decide if you want to do off the shelf parts or a custom setup.

Then need to decide how much (if any) floor pan / cage modifications you want.

I own a 530 HP Camaro with a custom built 3-link setup and wouldn't go any other way, but as far as an off-the-shelf system I can't make any recommendations.

I will say that the 3-link setups on the market that "bolt in" have some serious compromises that will hinder their performance. If you're willing to accept losing the backseat and putting some sort of a cage in the car, a 3-link with a sprung upper link (basically looks like a coilover with springs for compression and rebound directions) is a fantastic solution. On launch you get the tires to spin just a bit, lift off the pedal and the thing will hook and go as the upper link compensates for the initial hit to the tires. A solid upper link won't hook up nearly as well.

Can't comment the system's effectiveness for drag racing, but it works darn well as an autocross / road race setup and you could tune it suitably for onroad performance.

Anyways, just my $0.02
 
I have no problems messing the car up! But i dont want to take out the back seats.

And i dont want to use more than maby 6k on the build.

And what 3-link system is made for the Mustang?