Why does this say "NOT for stock wheels"

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We're not talkin' heads or cams here. It's a chunk of metal (CNC machined 6061 T6 billet aluminum} with some holes and studs (pressed in grade 8 studs).

If the specs for the metals are there, the name makes no difference. Believe me, the big name companies don't want you to think that at $200 a pair. Highway robbery.

I totally agree.
IMO, as long as you get stronger studs and torque the bolts to spec, you should be fine.
 
We're not talkin' heads or cams here. It's a chunk of metal (CNC machined 6061 T6 billet aluminum} with some holes and studs (pressed in grade 8 studs).

If the specs for the metals are there, the name makes no difference. Believe me, the big name companies don't want you to think that at $200 a pair. Highway robbery.

True, but only to a point. You could make them out of diamond, but if the hole's size and location tolerances aren't held tightly (cost goes up with the degree of accuracy), all you have is an expensive paperweight.
 
True, but only to a point. You could make them out of diamond, but if the hole's size and location tolerances aren't held tightly (cost goes up with the degree of accuracy), all you have is an expensive paperweight.

You hit the nail on the head. I purchased the ones in the thread and found the center hole that went over my hubcentric hub was about .002 to small and that metal had to be removed before I could use them. It was a small enough amount that I could remove it with emery cloth but you'd be surprised how hard aluminium can be.

Other than that, I'm happy with them and they look great. A retorque after a thousand miles is recommended and necessary. Here's a pic before the H&R Sports.

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