Post yalls 289/ 302 setups!!

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This is what I'm running in my 89 Ranger: roller 302 shortblock, stock Ford F4TE roller cam (256/266 duration, .445/473 lift with 1.7 rockers) cast flat tops, Ported E7TE heads, Cobra roller rockers (bought used with 100K miles on em) Ford A321 intake, Holley 570 Street Avenger carb, Shelby Tri-Y headers, stock points distributor with a Crane XR-1 unit. I drive this daily, starts easy(crank it at 25* F and never touch the gas pedal & it starts and idles on it's own), performs great backed with a Toploader 4 speed and 3.73 rear, good mileage. Can't tell you the output, but in the 3800 lb Ranger, it's light on it's feet & fun to drive.
 
mine will be as follows;

windsor jr heads with 1.94in/1.50ex and 58cc chambers
comp cams retrofit roller cam with .480 lift 260 advertised duration
replacement flattop cast pistons
stock rods rebuilt with arp rod bolts
stock main caps with main studs instead of bolts
balanced rotating assembly
hipo 289 or similar dampner
tri-y headers
weiand action plus intake with a 4100 autolite carb with the 1.08 venturies
sig erson roller rockers in a 1.6 ratio
milodon 7qt low profile oil pan.
stock oil pump
DS ll dist hooked to a chrysler orange ignition box and a late model style ignition coil

this combination should make around 300hp, and have a nice fat, flat torque curve. it will drop off above 6000rpm, but then it is a street engine.
 
71, 302 30 over, flat top forged pistons with valve reliefs, wind age tray, 65 289 53cc heads screw in studs ported, polished, with 195 in 160 exh valves, beehive springs, 1.6 roller rockers, Wiend stealth intake, Lunati Voodoo cam Duration 262/268, Lift .499/.522., 600 cfm vacuum sec Holley, 3/4 length ceramic coated headers, sfi dampener, March under drive pulley's, MSD pro billet Dist 9mm ford racing wires, blaster 3 coil MSD 6al box, Northern alum rad Spal electric fan. Also motor has been balanced deburred and all ARP fasteners

I am not sure what it is going to make I will lose some due to my AOD but I do have a 2600 stall and 380 gears in the 9. I just wanted a fun driver I am 99% sure I will have to run some octane boost with the iron heads. May switch to some AFR 165's later. Should be breaking in soon just been to busy to get to it the last few weeks. have to finish up some wiring and such. Here is a pic just for the heck of it. the felx fan has since been removed. and all the wires and such added.

engine.jpg


My guess would be 275 to 320 HP depends on the heads. (How good the flow really is)
 
71, 302 30 over, flat top forged pistons with valve reliefs, wind age tray, 65 289 53cc heads screw in studs ported, polished, with 195 in 160 exh valves, beehive springs, 1.6 roller rockers, Wiend stealth intake, Lunati Voodoo cam Duration 262/268, Lift .499/.522., 600 cfm vacuum sec Holley, 3/4 length ceramic coated headers, sfi dampener, March under drive pulley's, MSD pro billet Dist 9mm ford racing wires, blaster 3 coil MSD 6al box, Northern alum rad Spal electric fan. Also motor has been balanced deburred and all ARP fasteners

I am not sure what it is going to make I will lose some due to my AOD but I do have a 2600 stall and 380 gears in the 9. I just wanted a fun driver I am 99% sure I will have to run some octane boost with the iron heads. May switch to some AFR 165's later. Should be breaking in soon just been to busy to get to it the last few weeks. have to finish up some wiring and such. Here is a pic just for the heck of it. the felx fan has since been removed. and all the wires and such added.

engine.jpg


My guess would be 275 to 320 HP depends on the heads. (How good the flow really is)
With that cam , you're goiung to find it tough to run pump gas (depending of course on what flat tops they are as far as pin height) You could also do without the 2600 stall converter. You really ought to go with a bigger cam to take advantage of the compression, 2600 stall and gearing.
 
D, I will probably end up going that way not to hard to install even with motor in. I will see how this does and go from there cam swap is pretty cheap considering what other things cost. The machine shop said compression ratio is about 10.5.

I took this motor apart due to broken push rod that drop into the pan and had the whole thing gone through changing the cam and upgrading the intake and ignition. Before it had a torker II and 600 edlebrock with long tubes and a c6 it needed a stall with that set up could not idle in drive at a stop light. So that had a little to do with cam choice but think like you I went a little to small. It also did have some detonation at higher RPM without some octane booster. However the pistons looked fine??:shrug:

I also have the stock Converter so I can always go back that way. Will see how it performs and go from there.
 
Maybe you'll get lucky with the cam and compression. Seems like an upscale RV type cam though. These are usually geared toward engines with less compression though. Detonation does more harm to the rings and ring lands. That's where I've found damage when it comes to that.
 
My roller 302 started as a new 302 block and has the following:

-Stock crank & rods
-Speedpro forged flat tops
-Crane Powermax 2031 (p/n: 444225)
-Edelbrock Performer 60379 pedestal rocker heads(1.90/1.60)
-Crane Energizer/'93 Cobra roller rockers
-Weiand Xcelerator single plane intake
-Holley 650 pumper
-Hooker Comps.
-Ford Duraspark distributor with a GM HEI module firing the coil
-Fidanza aluminum flywheel and RAM clutch

I haven't had it on a dyno, so I don't know what it's putting to the rear wheels. It does get up and scoot pretty well, though.

Scuzzy engine bay, complete with Mickey Thompson valve covers like Harndog has.

68enginebay.jpg
 
Here's the specs on my 289;

1966 C code block
Stock polished rods and crankshaft
10.4:1 SRP forged Alum. Pistons
Comp Cams dbbl roller timing chain
ATI super damper
Centerforce Aluminum flywheel
Dema Elgin Solid Lifter Race Cam: .347” lift on the intake and exhaust; duration is 284 degrees and 248 degrees at .050
Valve lift is .555" and Lobe seperation is 106 degrees

1966 cast iron heads, screw in studs, port & polish.
Intake valves: 1.84 Original GT 40, Exhaust valves: 1.5 Manley brand(New), Crane 1.6 Gold Race Roller rockers, Crane solid lifters, guide plates, screw in studs, Heads milled .010”, Comp Cams Stock length Hardened Push Rods, Nylon valve stem seals, Spring locators, 190 lb double valve springs,

Edelbrock Performer RPM Airgap (port matched), Holley 4150 HP, 650 CFM DP Carb
½” 4 hole spacer

RWHP was 284 when I finished it 2 years ago.

228266.jpg
 
Thanks...then I should be even more pump gas friendly. I though I had read and or calculated it at 10.7 to 10.9 depending on the gasket cc.
I did a search on TRW pistons and found a site that sells em and had a list with the comp ratios vs chambers. They would be 11 to 1 with 53 cc heads. The 60 cc ratio was 10.2. That will change too with different head gaskets and if the heads have been milled.
 
E7TE block
.030" speed pro pistons, stock crank/rods, 9.5:1
home ported windsor jr lites (aluminum)
ported chinese RPM airgap (professional products)
670 street avenger
camshaft innovations hyd roller (218/231 @ .050")
1 5/8 hedman longtubes, 2 1/2" exhaust
c4

271rwhp and 265rwtq

I just swapped to a t5, milled the heads .020" and switched to a .010" thinner HG, I also milled the choke horn off the carb.

Hope for over 300rwhp . . .

Best pass has been a 8.03 @ 86mph in the middle of July (85*). Need to swap to a 3.80 and ditch this 3.55 I have too.
 
I've got dyno results from the car with a carb, don't have any with the new EFI setup yet.

306 cu.in. DSS Racing Shortblock (balanced internals, forged "flat top" pistons)
Trickflow Twisted Wedge Heads - 2.02 / 1.60 valves, Track Heat springs, unported
10:1 compression (heads are decked to achieve this)
Lunati 51017 roller cam - 218/228 duration @ .050. .536 lift (1.6 rocker)
Stock Ford roller lifters
Ford Motorsport 1.6:1 roller rockers
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake (non-air gap)
Edelbrock 750cfm carburetor
MSD Dist. + 6A box
Hooker 1 5/8" longtube headers with 3"x2.5" X-pipe

Car did 325 HP and 317 lb/ft to the wheels. Dyno chart is attached. Can't tell you what it did with the Victor Jr. I had on it for a while, but it did trap 3mph faster in the quarter with it! (109 mph vs 106).

DynoRun-web.jpg
 
340 HP Ford Racing 5.0 Crate Engine with
GT-40 Aluminum Heads
1.94 Intake, 1.54 Exhaust Valves
Roller Rockers
E303 Roller Camshaft
.498" lift intake and exhaust
duration at .050" is 220 degrees intake and exhaust

Edelbrock Performer Intake
Edelbrock 600 cfm Carb
Hedman Elite shorty ceramic headers
Flowmaster 2 1/2" American Thunder system
Aluminum radiator and electric fan
Serpentine pulleys
130 A 3G Alternator
Vintage Air AC system

I'm sure I'm shy of the the rated HP because of the intake, but I plan on going EFI some time in the future, so I just used the intake I had. The shorty headers probably hold back some power too, but I'm running an AOD and I didn't want the clearance hassles of long tubes.

DSC08441.jpg
 
I have a very streetable build similar to 65Shelby Clone but with a smaller carb. 5.0L (Explorer block) with stock lower end +windage tray. Upper end includes Performer 60379 heads with 1.9/1.6 valves, hogged out Hi-po manifolds, HO cam (276/266, 0.472 lift with 1.7 Cobra roller rockers), Torker 289 with 1" 4 hole spacer and 4100 1.08 cam. Had Stealth 8020 on before, but am liking the small single plane and small carb--18inch vacuum at idle, not bad at all around town at 1000rpm, and has lost only a bit compared to the Stealth from 1500-2500 and equals or betters it from there. Then, at ~4000+ it feels like a boost from a turbo kicks in and it screams until I shut it down (I'm only brave enough to ~6K). I haven't dyno'd it yet and am still dialing in the carb and timing. I lost the stock look I had with the Ford Blue Stealth, so may go back after I play with the current setup for a while. :nice: Not sure the mileage I'm getting now (probably a bit less than the 25+mpg highway with the Stealth +T5Z +3.40TL rear), but it is a lot of fun.

I honestly wasn't sure what the differences would be from going from big dual plane to small single. It seems I've lost a bit down low, kept the torquey middle, and gained a bit at the top. It does seem more peaky than the Stealth, though. Both the Stealth and the T289 are much better all around than the Performer, although the Performer had a nice low end.

Daniel