So I installed my JDM Shorty headers today. The install was pretty straight forward, and took roughly 6hrs. Pretty easy overall, it just takes a lot of time. I followed the directions in this article if anyone else needs directions.
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0701_ford_mustang_exhaust_headers/index.html
A couple of things I will mention for others planning on doing the install:
1. Yes, the engine mounts really do need to come off. You could possibly get the drivers side header off if you remove all of the header studs but it would still be a really tight fit. The engine mount is just too close. As for the passengers side I could not access one of the lower bolts with the engine mount in place. In truth the engine mounts were really easy to remove and reinstall.
2. If you are planning on reusing your stock exhaust manifold studs be advised that you should have at least a few extra bolts of the correct size (M8 x 1.25 threads and 1 inch long is what I used) because you may run into some clearance issues as I did. The upper rear studs on both sides would not work because they touched the headers. I ended up having to clean up and go to the hardware store to buy bolts.
3. If you are installing shorties and they don't have studs for the downpipe/collector flange you will need to buy some nuts and bolts to make this connection. Long tubes won't have this problem. I foolishly assumed the studs from my old headers would work but I was wrong. The stock studs are threaded, but the JDM headers didn't have threads, so I had to go to the hardware store for nuts and bolts.
4. The instructions with the headers called for loosening the rack and pinion unit, but I did not find it necessary.
5. The install is a whole lot easier with help. By your self you will constantly be switching from under to above the car, but with help one can stay under and one above making things go much more smoothly.
I also took pictures of a few issues with the S197's supposedly more freely flowing factory exhaust that I'll be posting later.
Before you start bashing shorty's you should know that I didn't want long tubes. I am well aware of the advantages and disadvantages of each so lets not start a discussion about it please. The shortys worked fine did exactly what I wanted. I felt a definite increase in low end and midrange and didn't increase the noise level. If you don't believe they make power check out the article above. They may not do much for the almighty max horsepower bragging rights but the do their thing. Long tubes make more power without a doubt. I don't think anyone would argue that point, but they are really expensive, definatly make the car louder and in some cases have clearance issues with the steering shaft and/or other things.
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0701_ford_mustang_exhaust_headers/index.html
A couple of things I will mention for others planning on doing the install:
1. Yes, the engine mounts really do need to come off. You could possibly get the drivers side header off if you remove all of the header studs but it would still be a really tight fit. The engine mount is just too close. As for the passengers side I could not access one of the lower bolts with the engine mount in place. In truth the engine mounts were really easy to remove and reinstall.
2. If you are planning on reusing your stock exhaust manifold studs be advised that you should have at least a few extra bolts of the correct size (M8 x 1.25 threads and 1 inch long is what I used) because you may run into some clearance issues as I did. The upper rear studs on both sides would not work because they touched the headers. I ended up having to clean up and go to the hardware store to buy bolts.
3. If you are installing shorties and they don't have studs for the downpipe/collector flange you will need to buy some nuts and bolts to make this connection. Long tubes won't have this problem. I foolishly assumed the studs from my old headers would work but I was wrong. The stock studs are threaded, but the JDM headers didn't have threads, so I had to go to the hardware store for nuts and bolts.
4. The instructions with the headers called for loosening the rack and pinion unit, but I did not find it necessary.
5. The install is a whole lot easier with help. By your self you will constantly be switching from under to above the car, but with help one can stay under and one above making things go much more smoothly.
I also took pictures of a few issues with the S197's supposedly more freely flowing factory exhaust that I'll be posting later.
Before you start bashing shorty's you should know that I didn't want long tubes. I am well aware of the advantages and disadvantages of each so lets not start a discussion about it please. The shortys worked fine did exactly what I wanted. I felt a definite increase in low end and midrange and didn't increase the noise level. If you don't believe they make power check out the article above. They may not do much for the almighty max horsepower bragging rights but the do their thing. Long tubes make more power without a doubt. I don't think anyone would argue that point, but they are really expensive, definatly make the car louder and in some cases have clearance issues with the steering shaft and/or other things.
