Trick flow top end kit problems???

[Red88 RICK]

Ok so i bought the trick flow street heat top end kit. comes with all the goods heads, intake, valve covers, rockers... so i installed it and now the car runs like crap. It feels slower especially at low Rpms. When i stop it stalls usually, there is a whistleing sound that i heard has to do with the iac. i did a cylinder balance test and the 1st test results where Cyl2 the 2nd test results where cyls 2 3 and 8, and the last test it was 1 2 3 5 7 8 or pretty much all of them... The car is a 302 board .30 over, i have a stock throttle body #19 injectors, 3.73 rear end, autolite 3924, anyone have any input please???

Thanks ahead... Sorry if there is already posts in this i searchd and couldnt find anything that sounds exactly liek my problem....

I dont think it made my car 100% slower i just dont think it made it $2500 Faster ha...

Rick

 

[robertdale]

Is you car speed density? I had to convert my 88 to mass air to get it to run after installing the kit. the stage 1 cam and SD don't work together.

 

[Red88 RICK]

no i did convert it to maf. how does your car feel? is it a big diff from stock to you? mayb im just not used to it but the stalling and cylinder bal test kinda say soemthings wrong to me..

 

[robertdale]

Mine was night and day. However if you have the stock gear that is killing the low end. When I first installed the kit I still had the stock gear. It was a dog in the low range, but at the top of the gears it was strong. After 4:10 gears the car screams. It pulls hard from 3500 to 6500 RPM. Mine would stall nearly every time until I got a Tweecer a few changes and it idles and runs almost as smooth as stock.

 

[Red88 RICK]

what is a tweecer? and i got 3.73s in the rear. it does feel pretty good in that rpm 3500 - 5000 never went above that just yet ha.. but at idle does yours sound really really loppey or is mine probly skiping.

 

[Red88 RICK]

ok iv looked up the tweecer it sounds awesome but a little outa cash after buying that trick flow kit... soo anything else i mite be able to do or other peoples Fix for this problem..? anyt help is greatly appreciated

 

[jtfairlane]

The street heat upper intake has a 75mm opening, and you are using a 60mm throttle body (stock). That combo should have at least 65mm or 70mm throttle body.

That combo really ought to have 24lb injectors and a matching mass air meter or a chip to retune the computers injector calibration.

The Trick Flow kit requires that you drill and install the oil fill tube in the passenger valve cover, they do not do this for you. Did you do this? Is the hose from the oil fill neck to your throttle body still installed? You need that for proper operation of the PCV "system".

Other possible issues that a lot of first-time head/cam/intake installers miss, that will affect how it runs drastically include in no particular order:

1. Brittle vacuum lines broken during install causing vacuum leaks (could be whistling sound you are hearing)
2. Incorrect ignition timing. Before you raise the initial advance, pull the spout connector and CONFIRM that you are around 10 degrees initial with the spout out.
3. Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator installed without checking fuel pressure. Should be around 39-40psi to start off with with vacuum line disconnected and plugged to test.
4. Improperly adjusted valvetrain (I mean no insult to any one in particular at all, but I am convinced that over 75% of the people on stangnet don't know how to measure/check pushrod length, and/or what the difference is in adjusting pedestal rockers vs. stud rockers, very common major problem)

Those are the big 4 common mistakes that will cause your $2500 effort to run like $25 bucks.

 

[robertdale]

Make sure you don't have the MAP sensor on the firewall connected to the intake. Mine would idle rough but after a couple days the computer settled down a lot. If you only have a stock throttle body that will hurt a lot. I am running 16 degrees btdc for best performance. Start the car in the dark and look under the hood to make sure no wires are arching over. Also make sure you have all the grounds hooked back up.

 

[Red88 RICK]

I just did another cylinder balance test with a gynenissis scan tool and it passed the first time maybe it was cause before i was using Bosch platinum plugs? But i did the valve adjustment the way trick flow recommended. and used the push rods that came with the kit.. and timing is a little below 20.. The car also stalls if sat at idle for about 2 mins. my teacher (i go to a tech school) said it sounds like an ignition or fuel problem the way it dies tomorrow are doing some more tests. I do plan on getting a bigger TB & EGR spacer when i get more money. thanks for all this input
And yes did do the drilling on the valve cover the hose i used to connect it to the TB was a little cracked. does anyone know how all the vac lines on the upper intake are suposed to look. i just guessed the best i could as to where they go..

 

[NKau]

and timing is a little below 20..

If the timing is actually at 20 degrees, you are likely way too high. Most don't like any more than 16* of timing, but every situation is different. Set it back to 10* (factory) and go from there. Check and be sure you have no vacuum leaks. With my current setup, it did run better as the computer made adjustments, but I will still need to tune it with my recently purchased Tweecer to get it to stop stalling when coasting to a stop, and correct the cold start issues it has. The power will likely not seem too impressive with stock gearing......you do really need at least 3.55's IMO to make most h/c/i combos perform like they should.

Your factory 19 lb. injectors are probably going to be pretty close to maxxed out with your combo, but should be OK until you get the car running better. You will notice a little bit of an increase once you upgrade to a bigger MAF (calibrated to whichever injectors you have) and a bigger throttle body.

You have a choice between having your car dyno-tuned by a good 5.0 mustang tuner, or buying your own tuning device and doing it yourself to get the car really running well. The Tweecer costs about what 1 dyno tune with a SCT chip does. FWIW I'm not very computer literate, but I did finally figure the Tweecer out, and will be making some adjustments as soon as it warms up enough to pull the car out of storage.

 

[NKau]

i just guessed the best i could as to where they go..

You need to find a diagram and be sure they are hooked up right. Cracked hoses are also NOT acceptable. The thing will never run right with vacuum leaks, or improperly routed vacuum lines.

 

[ShortThrow50]

hey dude. it sounds to me like maybe timing. either that or you didnt adjust your rockers correctly. A tweecer or tune will not fix your problem. the video in my sig is of my car after the same install without a tune. Did you adjust your rockers exactly how the manual told you to?

 

[The O.G.]

you have changed the powerband a bit

hammer that thing

my timing is at 14
it doesnt seem to like 10 as much
plugs gapped at 35
i do feel a bit soft down low with the trick flow stuff

no vacuum leaks
they seem to be horrid on these cars,

maybe someone can send you to an honest shop around your area

once tuned and you drive it, catch the powerband just at the right time
it will be much more fun
dont get discouraged, have patience and fun!

:OT: 300 or so hp isnt enough to hit me in the gut if you know what i mean

 

[Red88 RICK]

Last night i had a little fun with the car and at a high RPM it is aweseom. soo i think im just over reacting a little just worried about the stalling issue when coming to a stop and when it idles for about 2 mins. i can save it by giving it gas but it seems to wanna die untill it does or i turn it off and back on.

 

[jtfairlane]

If your initial timing is just under 20 degrees, that is too far advanced.

If you're not even sure which vacuum lines go where and you were just guessing, you have pretty much nailed your problem on the head.

Reduce your initial timing, verify your vacuum line routing and that none are broken.

Stop worrying about cylinder balance tests, that is used to identify if particular cylinders are contributing less to the engine running than others. Your problem sounds systemic, such as a vacuum problem or timing problem, affecting all cylinders.

 

[2000xp8]

You don't need a tweecer or any fancy equipment. You don't need a dyno tune either.

What you need is 24lb injectors, 70mm TB, PMAS mass air meter calibrated for 24lb injectors and an Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator.

These are required parts, not optional regardless of what you've read or heard.
Any competent shop will require you install these parts before even touching your car.

I'd also set the timing to 14 degrees.
Once you get all these parts then worry about getting it to run right, without them you are just wasting your time.
A major misconception is that the TFS kit's are complete, but they are no where's near everything you need.

 

[mustangfan1990]

You don't need a tweecer or any fancy equipment. You don't need a dyno tune either.

What you need is 24lb injectors, 70mm TB, PMAS mass air meter calibrated for 24lb injectors and an Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator.

These are required parts, not optional regardless of what you've read or heard.
Any competent shop will require you install these parts before even touching your car.

I'd also set the timing to 14 degrees.
Once you get all these parts then worry about getting it to run right, without them you are just wasting your time.
A major misconception is that the TFS kit's are complete, but they are no where's near everything you need.

A stock fuel pressure regulator isnt required...it doesnt hurt but you DONT have to have it. I am running a HCI supercharged 5.0 with the stock fuel pressure regulator

 

[Red88 RICK]

does anyone happen to have info on where the vac lines go on the trickflow intake? casue they wernt the same setup as stock thats why i was kindof guessing to where they go on the upper.

 

[mustangfan1990]

Not sure how the trickflow ones are setup but if there is a tree back there as long as you have one running from there to the brake booster, then one to your fuel pressure regulator....those are the only two I have hooked up besides the PCV but I am not running a PCV anymore

 

[ShortThrow50]

does anyone happen to have info on where the vac lines go on the trickflow intake? casue they wernt the same setup as stock thats why i was kindof guessing to where they go on the upper.

i will take a picture of the underside of my trick flow intake for you tomorow and post up. i have my **** apart for a blower install so check back tommorow night for pictures so you know how the vac lines are supposed to be