solid motor mounts..........?
- Thread starter mean78
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parthos
Founding Member
I've built my own, actually just the drivers side, since I tend to stretch out the factory ones. I built a jig off of a new stock drivers side mount, and then used that as a fixture for all my holes to line up perfectly to make the new one. The passanger side I've left alone for now, but my engine does compress that rubber part pretty good when going down the track. Maybe when things are caught up I can build a pass side jig as well
thats a good idea, well if you ever get around to it, ill give you a order for a set
you could make money selling those, i know im not the only one who has ever asked!
id buy some!
Power Surge
Founding Member
Why do you want solid mounts? Are you building a drag car? If you plan to drive your car on the street, you don't want solid mounts. The noise and vibration will drive you crazy, and you'll be forever tightening stuff back up. Even the guys with urethane mounts complain about all that, and that's not fully solid.
And remember, if you do solid mounts, you MUST do a solid trans mount too, or you'll be replacing trans cases
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And remember, if you do solid mounts, you MUST do a solid trans mount too, or you'll be replacing trans cases
.Why do you want solid mounts? Are you building a drag car? If you plan to drive your car on the street, you don't want solid mounts. The noise and vibration will drive you crazy, and you'll be forever tightening stuff back up. Even the guys with urethane mounts complain about all that, and that's not fully solid.
And remember, if you do solid mounts, you MUST do a solid trans mount too, or you'll be replacing trans cases
the trans mount is nothing new to me, a couple guys i know have solids on there street cars and they run just fine, i would like urethane but no one offers them anywhere, and the stock ones dont cut it, the engine jumps.
parthos
Founding Member
I can see a motor plate needing a solid mount on the trans, because of the water passages, yet in the solid motor mount debate I stand firmly behind being able to safely use a rubber trans mount. So far in the past 6 years I haven't seen any ill side effects, neither has any of my car pals.
Blue Thunder
Active Member
I'm going to cut an engine plate from a sheet of steel that bolts to the front of the motor, and then weld up a round poly-insulated mount on each side that will bolt into sockets on the frame rails.
Power Surge
Founding Member
If you've been lucky all this time, then that's good for you. I've replaced enough cracked trans cases over the years to know it happens.
Motor plate, or motor mount, it doesn't matter. When under power, the drivetrain wants to twist. Solid mounts stop the motor from twisting, but the rubber trans mount will allow the case to twist and flex. And since the motor isn't going to twist with it, well guess what breaks.
ya thats what i have heared, im trying to decide weather to put a t-5 in or build a c6 or a c4 tho. so i still have a few decisions to make before i start worring about this
$50COBRAII
New Member
- May 12, 2006
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Dano78
Founding Member
If you're really gonna race this thing, a C4 is the only way to go. You can build a C4 to handle up to 1000 hp and possibly more depending on how rich you are.
Finding someone to build you a 500 or 700 hp C4 is not to difficult anymore. They have become the hot ticket in racing these days, just as the powerglide has been.
If you're really gonna race this thing, a C4 is the only way to go. You can build a C4 to handle up to 1000 hp and possibly more depending on how rich you are.
Finding someone to build you a 500 or 700 hp C4 is not to difficult anymore. They have become the hot ticket in racing these days, just as the powerglide has been.
ya im not sure, i really like pounding threw gears
but i really would like a overdrive, but i dont know about popping in a AOD, has anyone done this and still been able to clear headers?
i actually enjoy building transmissions, me and a good friend of mine just finished a chevy (sorry) 200r4 (yes 200 not a 700) that we built, it has kevlar bands, hardend sprag, welded forward drum, and a manual valve body. that will be going in behind a 475hp 406 procharged small block, it runs on e85 in a 72 nova
i would like to build a automatic but i dont want this car to be strictly drag, im kinda looking for the same type of build as the low buck bully, i want it to be a freeway car, and be able to handle very well, and sit pretty low to the ground with 245/40/17 tires in the back and i really would want the 5 spoke SVT wheels that came on the last few cobras
Dano78
Founding Member
Well I've tried stuffing the Headmans into a '77 CBII with a 351W and an AOD. I got them to fit the 351W without too much trouble (just a little fab work) but no way no how will the cost-reasonable Headmans fit the AOD in a II.
Now- Headman does make a super comp header that has all the tubes exiting out infront of the main crossmember and down underneath it. All 8 tubes mind you and you'd also have to run a motor plate to run these headers. This header may work with the AOD. Hooker also makes a super comp set that has two pipes from each side exiting through the inner fenderwells. This design could possibly allow for more room to modify to fit around that fat-bodied AOD.
A well built T-5 would probably be fine but you'd probably be better off with a Tremec unit if you plan to play hard with it.
And on your soild engine mount quest.... why don't you just take your stock mounts and weld filler pieces into the originals... more or less making them "soild" mounts? I've done this in the past with other cars when I couldn't afford (or couldn't find) to replace a broken mount. If you are good a fabbing, building a soild set from scratch it's all that difficult. You more or less just copy the design of the originals,,,, without a chunk of rubber in the middle.
Now- Headman does make a super comp header that has all the tubes exiting out infront of the main crossmember and down underneath it. All 8 tubes mind you and you'd also have to run a motor plate to run these headers. This header may work with the AOD. Hooker also makes a super comp set that has two pipes from each side exiting through the inner fenderwells. This design could possibly allow for more room to modify to fit around that fat-bodied AOD.
A well built T-5 would probably be fine but you'd probably be better off with a Tremec unit if you plan to play hard with it.
And on your soild engine mount quest.... why don't you just take your stock mounts and weld filler pieces into the originals... more or less making them "soild" mounts? I've done this in the past with other cars when I couldn't afford (or couldn't find) to replace a broken mount. If you are good a fabbing, building a soild set from scratch it's all that difficult. You more or less just copy the design of the originals,,,, without a chunk of rubber in the middle.
Blue Thunder
Active Member
I'm going to buy a box of bends and 2 header flanges, and make my own headers. I don't think they make swap headers with large enough primary tubes to work well with a 427" 351 stroker anyway.
Blue Thunder
Active Member
If you are good a fabbing, building a soild set from scratch it's all that difficult. You more or less just copy the design of the originals,,,, without a chunk of rubber in the middle.
You can use some hockey pucks instead of rubber, they last longer. heh
hahaha have you ever used a hocky puck?......
thats awesome!, talk about using what you can get
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