Anyone ever change e-brake cables?

[1TallMF]

I searched, but found nothing.

I need to get my e-brake to work in order to pass inspection. It does absolutely NOTHING to hold the car or slow it down when moving. Last weekend I changed the rear calipers because I noticed they were nearly seized when I changed the pads last year, but it still doesn't work. I noticed both rear cables are in rough shape as well and are tough to move even when disconnected from the calipers, so I'm changing them next.

Is this a very dificult task to do on my back with the car on jack stands? I'm worried its a PITA to get the brackets off from the floor pan with the DS in the way. Do I need to remove the console and lever inside the car? How are the rear cable connected to the short front one? Any tips are much appreciated, as I have no idea what to expect.

:SNSign:

 

[Chythar]

The e-brake is mostly worthless on our cars. It should hold the car while stopped, but it won't really slow you down much at speed. Your new rear calipers may be shot, or the cables might be stretched out. I had my rear calipers die on me - they wouldn't rotate in when I changed the pads, and they did the last time I changed pads. After replacing the calipers with a pair from a 2001 'Stang (same caliper, just newer), my e-brake worked a lot better.

When you removed the cables from the calipers, was it hard to get enough slack or was it pretty easy?

I haven't changed the cables, but I got a decent look at 'em while working on my Cobra conversion. There's a bracket on top of the driveshaft that all the cables attach to. You need to pull the end of the cables to get some slack, then you can slide that end up and free it. It's hard to describe, and I don't have a photo. You shouldn't need to remove the console or the actual handle, but the driveshaft will be in the way. I'm not sure if you can do it with the driveshaft in place.

If you need it, I still have the car on jack stands - I can try and snap some pics tonight.

 

[1TallMF]

I think I understand what you are describing, like the ends of the cables just have the metal cylinder-type thing on them, which slide into a kind of pocket of a metal bracket. So by first freeing the caliper end, there should be no more tension on the cables and I should be able to get them free at the top side.... Sounds like an easy enough task, just requires patience and tiny girl hands (which I don't have).

The cables were not exactly easy to pull back onto the caliper spring bracket, but once I get them far enough, they didn't seem to go back in by themselves, so I'm assuming they must be both stretched and nearly seized.

Last time I was under the car I remember saying to myself "wow, I hope I never have to change those damn cables"...

 

[1TallMF]

I will also note that the lever was just as difficult to pull when the cables were disconnected from the calipers than when they were connected. So I'm pretty sure they are the problem. Could it be the crank mechanism? I don't see how...

 

[ronstang94]

I searched, but found nothing.

I need to get my e-brake to work in order to pass inspection. It does absolutely NOTHING to hold the car or slow it down when moving. Last weekend I changed the rear calipers because I noticed they were nearly seized when I changed the pads last year, but it still doesn't work. I noticed both rear cables are in rough shape as well and are tough to move even when disconnected from the calipers, so I'm changing them next.

Is this a very dificult task to do on my back with the car on jack stands? I'm worried its a PITA to get the brackets off from the floor pan with the DS in the way. Do I need to remove the console and lever inside the car? How are the rear cable connected to the short front one? Any tips are much appreciated, as I have no idea what to expect.

:SNSign:

It is a little bit of a pain but with some vice grips it will be easier. You will have to remove the center console. IIRC you have to pull the e-brake back to line up two holes on the passenger side of the spring that a pin needs to be put through
to hold the spring tention. Then i think you but the e-brake down. Now the cables should be loose under the car. The single short cable connects to the middle of a long narrow metal plate the two longer rear cables attatch to each end of that plate. The end of the cables have knobs that are larger so when the cable can slide into a slot on the plate the knob is too large to fit through the slot and that is how the cables attatch to the plate. Sorry, I hope that made sense. The vice grips are for grabbing the "knob" on the end of the cable to pull it far enough to attatch it to the plate because there may still be quite a bit of tention on the cable. A haynes manual has great pictures and explanations of how to do this.

 

[Chythar]

I will also note that the lever was just as difficult to pull when the cables were disconnected from the calipers than when they were connected. So I'm pretty sure they are the problem. Could it be the crank mechanism? I don't see how...

Yeah, those cables are likely hosed. My cables slide easily when disconnected from the calipers. Ronstang94 is right about the spring tension on the e-brake handle. The crank mechanism can be seized up, so it wouldn't be putting additional pressure on the cable. But that shouldn't prevent the e-brake from working. I only found out mine was seized when I swapped it for the Cobra one.

The e-brake handle should keep pressure on the small center cable at all times. If there's slack in the center cable when you've disconnected the cables at the calipers, the mechanism has frozen up. I don't know how to un-freeze it, perhaps a liberal amount of WD-40 might help.

 

[1TallMF]

Thanks for the helpful hints guys, I think I have a clear idea of what I'm gonna face when I tear it apart. I also noticed before that the rear part of the cables go from the drive-shaft well, into the body, turn outward, and come back out again near the lower control arms. Is that going to be a b***h to remove and install?

 

[mustang6tee8]

Thanks for the helpful hints guys, I think I have a clear idea of what I'm gonna face when I tear it apart. I also noticed before that the rear part of the cables go from the drive-shaft well, into the body, turn outward, and come back out again near the lower control arms. Is that going to be a b***h to remove and install?

Shouldnt be if you do what electricians do when re-wiring houses. Just butt the end of the new cable to the old cable, tape/zip tie it, and when you pull out the old cable, the new one should come through as well.

 

[94-302-vert]

The cables are not that hard to change...

Now mind you I will also say that be careful, both cables are SLIGHTLY differet lengths... label the cables... I had the pleasure of putting them on twice...

I had a buddy helping me... he compressed the caliper spring and I pulled the second cable into it... it worked pretty good... Not sure how easy/hard to do alone...

Also if the cable is not running where you want I suggest to get some of the clamps for them and then use zip screws to hold the cables out of the way... Mine were hitting my alum d/s...