Before installing cams

[OneSlowL36]

I may be doing cams (and springs of course)on my buddies 2002 GT (A4). He already has a cold air intake, full exhaust, UDP(not sure which ones exactly) 3.73 gears, shift kit, ECU reflash, and Eibach Drag Launch springs. Is there anything else he should have performance wise before installing cams? On F bodies its better do put in a converter before cams.... I was looking at the Comp XE278 and the numbers look good and the cars sound nice. He said he would take it to get tuned afterwards, so as long as the cam will work with stock heads its all good. What are the stock cam specs anyways? Sorry if any of this is stickied and I missed it, I'm a little new to Fords - but I do love Mustangs

Thanks in advance!

P.S. I am more of a Chevy guy so forgive me if I ever use the phrase "cam" instead of "cams"

 

[blkhorse]

unless your familiar with mod motors and degreeing cams,i would not attempt to install large cams as the 278's(i think you have to flycut pistons for these)

 

[OneSlowL36]

Makes sense. Thanks. Would you go with something smaller then? I did his headers without a problem (I told him to go long tube be he had the shorties already). I've done OHV cams before as well - and one SOHC cam but it was on my 85 Celica lol.

I wish I didn't have to degree cams, but I guess all manufacturers can't make them completely perfect - but yes I have experience with that as well. Cutting pistons however is not something I think he wants to do at the moment. Oh **** I forgot he has a bottle on the car.

Ok new question - what would be a good N/A cam that is occasionally sprayed with above mods?

 

[blkhorse]

I have heard the cms stage 2's n/a. really like the spray,they have no ptv issues and sound real good. lot's of people installed them without degreeing them without problems,but of course degreeing is alway's recomended

 

[OneSlowL36]

ok cool thanks for the advice. I'll keep that in mind - I don't think he wants to go too big its a street car that sees the track a few times a year I think.

 

[scupking]

Don't go any bigger then stage 2's and as other have said, go with CMS stage 2s.

 

[OneSlowL36]

What exactly does "Stage 2" denote? Or is every company different.

 

[Will Smith]

i would personally recommend comp cams... the 270AH cams are equivalent to "stage 2" or so....just make sure that u get a cam that have a .550 lift... that is what our cars come with... also a spring upgrade and some new retainers....like the other say the 278AH will defiantly have to get degreed in and the pistons will have to by fly cut...

 

[OneSlowL36]

Cool thanks for the advice guys!

 

[quickred99]

Cool thanks for the advice guys!

i have a set of the comp 270s brand new and comp springs for sale if interested you can email me at [email protected]

 

[Jim@CMS]

I have heard the cms stage 2's n/a. really like the spray,they have no ptv issues and sound real good. lot's of people installed them without degreeing them without problems,but of course degreeing is alway's recomended

Yes..they love spray, have no PTV issues and work great! Thanks!

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

I'd also say CMS stage 2's. Stage 2 doesn't always mean the same thing for each brand (i.e. Crower who has 4 stages, so their stage tow is almost a 1.5). Get some beehive springs and the CMS cams, should be nice and lumpy but not drastic.

 

[OneSlowL36]

Cool, I think thats what he wants. So I don't have to make a thread would you say an Edge 3200 stall would match nicely with the CMS stage 2 and 3.73 gears? He wants to spray it out of the hole eventually so thats where I'm at with the car.

 

[Jim@CMS]

Cool, I think thats what he wants. So I don't have to make a thread would you say an Edge 3200 stall would match nicely with the CMS stage 2 and 3.73 gears? He wants to spray it out of the hole eventually so thats where I'm at with the car.

Yep..thats perfect! Could even lean towards 4.10's....

 

[R.J.]

Here is a write up describing the process of degreeing these cams. Hope it helps.

DEGREEING CAMS

TOOLS NEEDED
-DIAL INDICATOR AND MAGNETIC BASE
-DIAL INDICATOR EXTENSION ROD
-DEGREE WHEEL
-MAGNETIC BASE PLATE
-SOLID LIFTER (OEM WELDED FULLY EXTENDED)
-STEEL PLATE FOR MAGNETIC BASE TO STICK TO.

PROCEDURE
1. Remove valve covers.
2. Remove timing chain cover if you plan on making adjustments to the cam sprockets.
3. Wedge a piece of wood behind the moveable timing chain guides to take all of the slack out of the chains.
4. Remove cam followers (rocker arms)
5. Remove the #1 cylinder intake lifter and install the solid lifter in its place.
6. Reinstall the #1 cylinder intake follower.
7. Install the degree wheel on the crankshaft and set up the wheels pointer.
8. Set up the dial indicator magnetic base. (Steel plate is for bolting to the head if current engine configuration allows)
9. Configure dial indicator so that the indicators pointer is resting on the top of the valve spring retainer and is parallel to the valve spring.
10. VERY IMPORTANT STEP!! Find Perfect Top Dead Center (TDC) of the #1 cylinder piston.
11. Adjust the degree wheel to the pointer and make it read “zero” (0*).
12. Rotate the crank shaft to find MAX LIFT on the #1 cylinder intake valve. (MAX LIFT is the instant that the dial indicator changes directions during its sweep)
13. Once you are at MAX LIFT set the dial indicator to “zero”.
14. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the dial indicator reads .25, and then rotate the crankshaft back counterclockwise, stopping at .050.
15. Look at the degree wheel and write down the measurement.
16. Continue rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise until the dial indicator reads “zero”.
17. Now rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the dial indicator reads .25, rotate back clockwise, stopping at .050.
18. Look at the degree wheel and write down the measurement.
19. Take the two numbers that you got form steps 14 and 17. Add them together and divide buy 2.
Example: #14’s reading was 103* and #17 reading was 123*. 103*+123*=226*. 226*/2=113* deg this makes you intake centerline, 113 deg
20. Look at your cam card (cam with your aftermarket cam) and compare the center line that you figured to where the center line is supposed to be. If your cam card says 115* then your timing is retarded 2* and needs to be advanced 2*.
21. Now repeat this process on the #6 cylinder for the other cam. With one exception, you do NOT have to get TDC for the #6 piston.
22. The first step (after installing the solid lifter and follower on the intake valve) will be to get max lift.
23. At this point start at #11 of this process and repeat back to #20

 

[blkhorse]

there are something's that don't work with the above method. one,since your using max lift you can use a collapsed hyd lash adj(max lift is max lift)two you don't rotate clockwise then back counterclockwise,this is backwards. you always want to take readings with the chains tight in the direction of engine rotation. meaning back engine(counter clockwise) .100 then clockwise to the .050 before max lift reading. then you continue past max lift straight to the .050 reading without going counterclockwise