Major disappointment and set back

[toyman]

Last summer I installed a KB 2.1L. Lots of fun. However, I was concerned about relying on the KB FMU and decided that it would be best to work towards a properly managed fuel delivery system. To this end I acquired over the winter a AEM EMS, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, 42 lb injectors, 3.5 AEM bar MAP sensor, Zeitronix WB O2 and a 90mm LMAF (option 2). Last week it was all to come together. Everything was arranged, trip to shop (250 miles away to do the install and dyno tune the EMS.

What happened?

Well to make sure that the work wouldn't be in vain the shop does a pre dyno inspection. Everything looked okay until the the compression test. Cylinders 1 through 7 great 145 to 150 psi. Cylinder 8 105 psi. Leakdown test indicates it's leaking past the rings into the crankcase.

Recommendation "engine replacement".

Well, the KB was reinstalled and I've driven the car back home. Now I have to decide what if anything I should do. Rebuild, crate engine and which one or do nothing?

To add to my misery I noticed on my drive back home that between 60 & 80 kph while in OD the car behaves like it's missing or shifting back and forth. If I turn off the OD it's fine so I guessing that the problem my be the OD band (too many WOT 3rd - OD shifts?). Anyone familiar with OD band failure and how it behaves?

And, on top of all that while the car was off the road over the winter I redid the interior. Re-upholstered and rebuilt the seats (front and rear), replaced the lower driver side speaker grill and recovered all 4 rear seat speaker grills. Two weeks ago I replaced the stock H-pipe with a off road BBK so I could install the WB.

I'm feeling like I'm really between a rock and a hard place.

What do you think I should do?

 

[Bosko5.0]

you could get new rings put on but then the cylinder might need be honed, or you could purchase another block and do a stroker setup but either way it will cost time and money.

 

[RAD]

I would buy a used Explorer motor.......

 

[BlackVert]

hmmmmmm ... when i had my 302 with the KB, i also had a problem with the #8 cylinder

welcome to hot rodding bro

a simple rebuild probably wouldn't cost too too much

and it you want to stroke it, i have a 331 crank and some rods and pistons for ya

 

[Stanger007]

I would buy a used Explorer motor.......

Bang for the buck wise, this is a tough one to beat to get you on the road with a decent motor. Resell the heads/intake and recoupe some if not all your investment.

Too bad on the AODE, they do not take well to the 3rd to 4th WOT shifts.

Wes

 

[ProKiller]

explorer motor is a good way to get you around the engine problem as far as money is concerned. JY tranny will get you buy as well. but if it was me, i'd take the time to redo the engine the right way. stroke it out and upgrade it. it will cost you more but in the long run it will make you happier. I'm kicking myself now for not buying a dart block when i got my short block.

 

[toyman]

I would buy a used Explorer motor.......

Is there a particular year and how is it different from the one in the car?

Richard

 

[94GTLaserRC]

I had TWO bad cylinders....I didnt want to "piece" together parts in a 14-year old car, so that's why Im doing a new engine long block combo the right way. Of course this costs money, but that was my choice, and a choice YOU will have to make......Scrap the cosmetic mods for now and GO TO WORK!!

RC

 

[RAD]

Is there a particular year and how is it different from the one in the car?

Richard

You can get the 5.0s from 96' - 01' Mountaineers and Explorers, some of them have better gt40 heads but which year I don't know, I'm sure someone will chime in on this topic, btw use this website to search for some used motors www.car-part.com

 

[toyman]

Scrap the cosmetic mods for now and GO TO WORK!!

RC

Cosmetic mods?? I'm thinking of this being a next winter project and driving it until then or when it dies. After all, this is my summer fun car.

 

[toyman]

You can get the 5.0s from 96' - 01' Mountaineers and Explorers, some of them have better gt40 heads but which year I don't know, I'm sure someone will chime in on this topic, btw use this website to search for some used motors www.car-part.com

That URL is very helpful. Thanks

Richard

 

[Zero Signal]

I say keep what you have running, get a shortblock built up and install the new shortblock and all the other new goodies in one shot. I wouldn't skimp too much on the shortblock as it will be taking a beating from the blower. Do it a bit at a time or save for it and get it built or buy it all at once. Either way don't do what I did and take the car down, as it will somehow never run again

 

[homer392]

you asked so here is my opinion. Everyone has their own ideas, which is what you wanted. I would rebuild rather then replace with another used engine. It might be cheaper to swap out to an Explorer but you still have a used lump with junk pistons etc. At least you would know what you had, what it has been through and you could select your own parts. These things can be less than $500 to rebuild...seriously. Do a lot of the labor yourself and then let a pro do the important stuff. You can loosen a bolt as good as the engine guy and your labor is free. Invest in a torque wrench and don't get in a hurry.
Just my .02

 

[toyman]

I say keep what you have running, get a shortblock built up and install the new shortblock and all the other new goodies in one shot. I wouldn't skimp too much on the shortblock as it will be taking a beating from the blower. Do it a bit at a time or save for it and get it built or buy it all at once. Either way don't do what I did and take the car down, as it will somehow never run again

Talked to a local rebuilder and performance shop today. Depending on how much I want to spend they can do a custom build for me. I'll ask them tomorrow to email me the details of build options (a complete breakdown of all the major components). This option is attractive as they can do the build at there leisure and swap the engines when it's completed. When I get the build profile I'll post it for comments.

I'm not worried about the car running. It runs quite strong and other than that slight miss in OD between 60-80 kph at light load (which may be a bad ignition wire, rotor or cap issue) there is no other concern.

Richard

 

[earleys94gt]

D.S.S. 306 $1500, with forged internals. Only issue is it's a Ford block, so it probably won't go for more then 500 hp.

www.dssracing.com

 

[toyman]

To pick up where we left off. I decided to go with a custom build.

The short block is now complete. Basic are: Edelbrock 60259 Performer RPM Heads, Comp 270HR Roller camshaft, Probe forged piston set 9.3:1 compression with 60cc heads, Moly Plasma ring set, Comp promagnum roller rocker arms, JB2205 roller lifters, Cloyes true roller timing set, ARP rod bolts, main studs and head studs, engine assembly balanced.

Today they started to remove the engine from the car.

I'm deleting the KB FMU (FMB), so 42 lb injectors and a Wallbro 255 lph pump will be installed. The MAF will be replaced using instead a 3.5 bar MAP. The IAT sensor will be relocated to the #5 runner on the intake. The ECU will be an AEM 30-1401.