Went to the track again

gashog

Member
Dec 26, 2006
139
0
16
Fresno, CA
Visited the local track last weekend on friday night grudge. Did a lot better than the first time out (best was a 14.5).

Managed to cut a 13.7 which I was pretty excited about. Still a bit of wheel hop but the new BFGs really grabbed compared to the pirellis I had on there before. Check out the time slips!

My 13.7 was up against a honda hatch. The guy said it was fully built running 13:1 compression, 110 octane, straight through exhaust, no interior, and drag radials up front. No turbo, no nitrous. I told him I still had my seats in the car. lol

My car is #159

Timeslip1.jpg



First run of the night I ran against a brand new charger SRT8, he beat me but check out my MPH compared to his... wierd. I was talking to the guy most of the night, nice car but thought those things were a lot faster.

Timeslip2.jpg
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Good improvement! Tire spin off the start usually adds MPH at the traps.
I see the Honda left on you, but it didn't take you much past half track to catch and pass him for the win:nice:
The SRT8s are nice/powerful, but lead sleds. They are much better suited for highway speeds than dead stop launches(at least in stock form).
 
Your R/T's are Horrible!
Practice on getting the pedal to the floor half a second quicker.

Thats a whole half a second Off your final slip! Which is killer in any car.

Its looks good though. Your running fairly well.
Doesn't look like your loosing any time through the gears.
+1, Just keep up the quick draw
 
Your R/T's are Horrible!
Practice on getting the pedal to the floor half a second quicker.

Thats a whole half a second Off your final slip! Which is killer in any car.

Its looks good though. Your running fairly well.
Doesn't look like your loosing any time through the gears.
+1, Just keep up the quick draw

While the R/T is bad, he's just trying to get some better times right now... and the R/T has nothing to do with ET. So your RT could use some improvement (wherever you're starting right now, start at the light before), the short times are the real area of opportunity. When you say BFG's, do you mean drag radials? Those are not good short times for drag radials. I know you're running 3.31's, and that kills 60's, but after just a few runs, I'm hitting 2.0 60s with my new DR's, and with a bit more practice, I'm sure I can get down to 1.8. Right now I'm bogging off the line. You get your 60's down to even 2.0, and your 1/4 time will come down to 13.45 or so. Your MPH is there for 13.4 and 13.5 runs. Just work on launching.
 
Yeah, I said BFGs. They are just the stocker 18" BFGs that come on the optional mustang wheels, not drag radials. They bark instead of squeal like the pirellis.

I wasn't really going for reaction times, as my times show. The timeslip I didn't scan was a 14.8 @ 103, with a r/t of .318, so I can do it just not all together. lol I know that r/t has nothing to do with elapsed time too.
 
Yeah and don't be afraid to red light a few times, it's only practice and you don't want to get caught napping at the tree. Races are won and lost right there at the line. You'll be in the low 13's once you get the RT worked out. Like I say, cut the light so close you may red light a few times, but you will get a feel for the tree and launching. Over all looks good, eaxh trip you will improve, keep up the good work.
 
Yeah and don't be afraid to red light a few times, it's only practice and you don't want to get caught napping at the tree. Races are won and lost right there at the line. You'll be in the low 13's once you get the RT worked out. Like I say, cut the light so close you may red light a few times, but you will get a feel for the tree and launching. Over all looks good, eaxh trip you will improve, keep up the good work.

What? Again, RT has nothing to do with ET.
 
What? Again, RT has nothing to do with ET.

haha dark fire u crack me up.

lol, i guess a lot of people here arent educated with Drag Racing and what reaction time really is and where the timer starts for E.T.

However, STAGING can effect you're E.T.. Staging DEEP (bumping out the first stage light) will slow you're E.T Down. Staging SHALLOW can improve you're E.T

But in you're Case its You're 60 foots need improvement Gash.
Play w/ tire pressure, heat the tires a bit and if in stick leave hard.
Practice ;D


Seeing those reaction times are hysterical though I wish you guys Bracket raced at my track, then I'd win a lot more. I'd almost think the tree was an old .500 lol but i see someone went .200 :rlaugh:
 
Yep. You can sit at the light for 2 minutes, it's not going to affect your ET. Eventually you'll wanna work on that, but one thing at a time. Launching is what you need to work on right now. And with those 60's, I'd deep stage to try to get those down.
 
that would be shallow staging.

As in just barely inching it, to bump the pre-stage lights. Which would improve e.t


Deep staging, is when u roll so far forward that the first set of pre-stage lights goes out and all ur left is w/ ur bottom deck of pre-stage lights.

This will IMPROVE reaction time, but you will loose E.T.


And yes best practice is to jump on it when u see the 3rd bulb on the christmas tree.

But reaction is most important in Bracket Racing and other forms of Competition Drag racing.

For just dicking around, it doesnt really matter.
 
that would be shallow staging.

As in just barely inching it, to bump the pre-stage lights. Which would improve e.t


Deep staging, is when u roll so far forward that the first set of pre-stage lights goes out and all ur left is w/ ur bottom deck of pre-stage lights.

This will IMPROVE reaction time, but you will loose E.T.


And yes best practice is to jump on it when u see the 3rd bulb on the christmas tree.

But reaction is most important in Bracket Racing and other forms of Competition Drag racing.

For just dicking around, it doesnt really matter.


Oops. I always confuse those 2. You'll want to stage shallow for a better ET and 60'. It'll give you 5-8 inches more before the clock starts.
 
Staging Lights...

Just to clear some things up...

When you are staging, there is 2 sets of lights:

1) Pre-Stage
2) Stage

The Pre-Stage lights will light first when you first cross the beam. You continue to move forward until you turn on the Stage lights. You will need to turn on the Stage lights to activate the tree.

Normal Staging:

You continue moving forward until both the Pre-Stage and Stage lights are lit. You don't care where you car is, as long as both lights are lit.

Deep Staging:

Deep Staging is to continue to move forward until the Pre-Stage lights( First ones to light ) go out but the Stage light stays lit. Doing this helps your reaction time, but I stress it is VERY EASY TO REDLIGHT.

Only do this for competitions where it is allowed and you are comfortable with doing this.( Meaning -> lots of practice )

Shallow Staging:

You move forward setting off the Pre-Stage lights and you continue forward until you just turn on the Stage light. Once you have this mastered this, the stage light should flicker on/off. Doing this will help your 60' and 1/4 times as you get a slight moving start before the clock starts counting.

If you are looking for a personal best E.T., shallow staging is a good way to achieve it.

I have yet to see a tree where you will activate the tree with just lighting the Pre-Stage light.

That said, Reaction time has nothing to do with the E.T.( Elapsed Time ). Reaction time only matters when you are in a competition. Personally, I would work on the 60' time first. Once you get consistent with the car, then you should start worrying about your Reaction Time.
 
Yep. Pretty much what I said, without the deep staging/shallow staging mix-up.

RT's don't mean jack until you get consistent. RT's only matter in a competition, and without being consistent, you really aren't ready to compete. Work on the launching and 60's, then worry about RTs. So for now, you want to shallow stage.
 
If you want to learn more about drag racing, bracket racing, reaction times, etc.

This is a good Read http://www.staginglight.com/guide/index.html, and click on the hyper links for more info about certain topics.

Thanks for posting, excellent read.

TGJ said:
Just to clear some things up...

When you are staging, there is 2 sets of lights:

1) Pre-Stage
2) Stage

The Pre-Stage lights will light first when you first cross the beam. You continue to move forward until you turn on the Stage lights. You will need to turn on the Stage lights to activate the tree.

Normal Staging:

You continue moving forward until both the Pre-Stage and Stage lights are lit. You don't care where you car is, as long as both lights are lit.

Deep Staging:

Deep Staging is to continue to move forward until the Pre-Stage lights( First ones to light ) go out but the Stage light stays lit. Doing this helps your reaction time, but I stress it is VERY EASY TO REDLIGHT.

Only do this for competitions where it is allowed and you are comfortable with doing this.( Meaning -> lots of practice )

Shallow Staging:

You move forward setting off the Pre-Stage lights and you continue forward until you just turn on the Stage light. Once you have this mastered this, the stage light should flicker on/off. Doing this will help your 60' and 1/4 times as you get a slight moving start before the clock starts counting.

If you are looking for a personal best E.T., shallow staging is a good way to achieve it.

I have yet to see a tree where you will activate the tree with just lighting the Pre-Stage light.

That said, Reaction time has nothing to do with the E.T.( Elapsed Time ). Reaction time only matters when you are in a competition. Personally, I would work on the 60' time first. Once you get consistent with the car, then you should start worrying about your Reaction Time.

I'm just going for ET mostly. The whole RT thing is for competition and i'm not into that yet... Thanks for posting. Great info.

:Track:

P.S. My car is stick.