Header/steering Q's...long story

[PhatGT]

I know this question has been asked a million times but I just wanted to re-assure myself on the coreect way to go about fixing it and "how exactly" to do it.

I finally got my C.A.M LT's headers installed yesterday and now I have the infamous steering shaft problem that most seem to have. I had a good friend who runs a shop do the install since I just don't have to time nor the space (apt. complex) to do the install. He has done dozens of header installs before with no problems, but this was the first time he said he has installed the CAMS's (which most have said are basically macs, but he said they were different). He fought the steering issue for several hours and could not get the problem 100% fixed. But from what he said, it is a TON better than what it started out as. From what I've researched so far, there seem to be a couple ways to fix it. The only way I feel comfortable fixing it (meaning I don't want to shim the motor mounts or buy different headers) is to dent the primary tube where the shaft hits. Without taking the header back off, how exactly do I get in there to put this dent in the tube? Is it easier from the top or from underneath the car? Now for the catch. I know most are gonna say to heat the header up before doing so. The problem with that is that exactly where the clevis is hitting, there is a weld on the header so if I were to heat it up, that weld is gonna come out and I will be in worse shape than before. I was thinking is I could get some vice grips around it and bend it enough, or would a need to find something dull to use kind-of like a punch? What would be the best way?

Sorry for the long wind here but I'm just trying to visualize how to do this. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[tonys5.0]

I'm in the same situation as this guy. Can anyone help here?

 

[big T]

Had the same problem when I put jba mid lengths on my old 02 auto gt. The shop just heated up the pipe that was touching and put a small dent there using their mandrel bending machine. Made a 1/4" dent that looked like it was done by jba (very nice dent) and it solved the problem. never had any issues after that, but I now know to invest in a flexible dip stick tube/poly motor mounts (needed replacing anyway) when doing mid length/LT install, saves time in the future.

 

[H0SS302]

NO dont dent em!!! i have the pypes(which i personally believe are cam headers, not many ppl making 304 ss headers) all i did was take a metal file and shave off a hair on each side of the u bolt. the steering is like stock now, and there is no way i took any strength away from the steering bolt.

 

[tonys5.0]

Unfortunately you are going to have to take that header off to dent the tube. It's what I had to do on Sunday.
Denting it while it's still on your engine is not an option because you are not going to have a good enough angle to pound the heck out of it where it needs to be pounded. Also beating on a header that's bolted into an aluminum head is not a good ideal in my opinion.

Trust me, it's not going to be easy without using maap gas either to heat up the pipe. I know you don't want to hear that but I'm being honest. I also had to use a socket extension to fit inside the other tubes because there just wasn't enough clearance for me to just pound on the tube with a hammer. I really didn't have to dent the tube all that much for it to work either.

 

[myponyrocks]

buy the Maximum Motorsports steering shaft (about 250 skins) you'll need a new one soon any way. My stocker melted last week from shorties, LTs melt the rag joint faster.

The MM piece is thinner as well so it might fit without denting.

 

[97predator]

I have the C.A.M. headers too, and am fighting the same problem. The shaft barely-BARELY touches so steering isn't affected, but I get a lot of engine noise being transmitted into the interior of the car which is a lot louder than you would think.

My thinking if to drop the steering shaft and a) dent the primary or b) use a file to create as little sepearation. There is a lot of wall thickness. I learned this beacause when the motor mounts went the collectors got gauged from the weight of the engine and I could see I had a lot to work with. Does this sound reasonable?

Plan c) is to buy the friggin steering shaft, I just don't want to drop another 250. This last year has seen gears, headers installed, new clutch, showcks/struts, RU C/A's, and a rear sway bar, lol. The mrs. might star losing patience, lol.

 

[peepeeskillz]

i have bbk LTs, and my the rubber thing that covers the joint would touch the header if i had it over the joint where its supposed to be, so i just pushed it back out of the way. but my header came pre-dented. my header pipes seemed pretty strong, i dont think u can dent them while theyre still on the car very easily. and theres almost no way to do it from the top, youll have to be under the car. but like others have said thats probably not a good idea, since its attached to an aluminum head.

lol just noticed this thread is like more than a year old

 

[97predator]

yeah i was doing some searching. I actually unbolted the steering shaft yesterday and somehow by tightening the bolts and moving things around i got just enough clearance to eliminate the engine noise coming in to the car.