Electrical Problem HELP!

[OL' WHITEY]

Hi folks,

I'm experiencing an electrical problem in my '93 GT. It happens at start-up and seems fine after I finally get the car started and it warms up a bit. What happens is that when I turn the key to crank, the tach jumps around, starter engages and turns the engine over, but the engine won't fire. After a few tries, the engine will turn over, but the tach goes crazy and doesn't reflect true rpm. If I touch the gas, the car dies. If I keep trying this six or seven times, the car will eventually fire up and run okay. After idling for a few minutes, I can shut the car off and restart with no issues. I've checked the battery connections and the battery seems okay. Any ideas?

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[OL' WHITEY]

Thanks, Jrichker. I'll try to run the codes and report back.

 

[Jmood]

Ignition switch, sounds like to me.

 

[OL' WHITEY]

Okay, I have something to add to my original post. Jrichker, I haven't had time to pull the codes. I'll try to get that done tonight and report back. I was able to take the car out on the road last night for a short drive and the car began acting as I described. Eventually it died on me. I smelled something strange as I was sitting on the side of the road so I looked around the car for anything burning. Low and behold the X pipe was glowing red just behind the cats! I assume this means the car was dumping fuel (too rich)? Any more ideas on what could be happening with this. What are the symptoms of a bad MAF meter? What about that little module that screws to the side of the distributor? Could that be going bad? Any help is appreciated.

 

[btsclan]

Does the car feel sluggish? Was the pipe glowing just on one side? It could be clogged? Perhaps part of your cats broke loose and is restricting your pipe. That could explain the car dieing when you press the gas and even could be why you car takes a while to start?

Also have you check the norm, like visual inspection of you starter, all battery and starter relay ground lines?

As for pulling codes, on my 87 stang I have never been able to get a code out of it, also there might not be any codes to pull, the ECM ODB 1 computer is super basic and doesnt store that many codes. I have had a lot of problems trying to pull codes from mine.

Good luck

 

[HISSIN50]

If someone can't retrieve codes, the issue is likely in the wiring. These cars are complex enough that it's nice to have self-diagnostic assistance [instead of guessing].

Cats generally don't go bad on their own - an issue upstream causes them to go bad. Fix the underlying issue so you don't cook new cats [if you replace your existing ones].

You can use a vacuum gauge to get an idea about an exhaust restriction but that alone is not your issue. You noted your tach acting up, it running better as a function of operating time, and other unrelated items.

Good luck getting those codes.