Installed Maximum Motorsports clutch cable package

[NotoriousGT350]

I went with the MM clutch cable package Part# MMCP-51 which included 1) Universal clutch cable, 2) Firewall adjuster, and 3) Quadrant. My first clutch cable install went ok. This is my 3rd kit with the first two lasting not even a year each before snapping(Don't know what kits they were since I had a shop install them during a tranny rebuild and second time when installing some other new parts). I did many searches through here to see how the install went with othes and to get some pointers before I tackle the project. Hardest part was taking off the previous cable and installing the new quadrant onto the shafts(lining up with the 2nd shaft). I did have to make a run to Sears for a round file to enlarge the hole on the firewall for the FWA.

Reading through some of the searches, the only thing I found confusing at first were the terms of "engaging" and "disengaging" and what it actually meant to the person installing their own kit. I did find out through testing to rotate the FWA counter clockwise to the point where the clutch pedal is about 2-3" off the ground before the clutch "engages" and car starts rolling. If I tried rotating the FWA clockwise, it is harder to engage into the gears. Seems like I have a little more adjustment if needed to rotate more counter clockwise, but I love the feel right now. Shifts like butter and the pedal feel is real light compared to before. Now if just need to get my AC fixed because having black cars in W. Texas with 3 digit temps up to 110* is not fun.


Here are some pics below with a few questions I may have.



Here is the previous kit and it looked as though the cable came off track and starting rubbing against the quadrant for some time before snapping.
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Off topic, but is this the door chimer?? I just removed this underneath the dash so I can get access with my left arm in removing/installing the old cable and quadrant. I notice it was unplugged already where you can see on the right side of it the prongs exposed.
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Ok, here is the end of the cable attached to the fork. Question, if later on in the future I run out of adjustment room on the FWA(Unable to rotate it counter clockwise anymore), would installing some nuts or spacers between the fork and tip of the cable allow for more room on adjustment? I notice somewhere somebody mention something to that effect. It would just be a matter of how. Tips or suggestions for future reference?
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[SuperStang83]

I just changed mine recently and couldn't be happier. It shifts like "butta" now compared to what it was.

 

[v8only]

you shouldn't run out of adjusment. if you do, go back to the shorter oem cable. If you want to mickey mouse it, put a giant nut between the cable sheath and fwa.

that quadrant pictures is the crappy upr triple hook setup.

only thing I don't like about the mm setup is they're crappy unlocking fwa. the fiore fwa is a much better piece by far.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Next is putting the Fiore setup in the cobra. The FWA and Quadrant. Can't wait!

After getting the stang running and finally washing for the first time in 2 months, it starts to rain

 

[5spd GT]

you shouldn't run out of adjusment. if you do, go back to the shorter oem cable. If you want to mickey mouse it, put a giant nut between the cable sheath and fwa.

that quadrant pictures is the crappy upr triple hook setup.

only thing I don't like about the mm setup is they're crappy unlocking fwa. the fiore fwa is a much better piece by far.

I know you know your clutch stuff.

Why do you not like the 3-hook UPR piece?

 

[v8only]

just my opinion

there is NO reason on the planet for a multiple hook quadrant. every clutch setup out there is manufactored essentially to factory specs. there is NO reason one would ever need either hook. a single hook is only needed.

on top of that, the hooks are known to be at an odd angle, which causes cable wear.

Most of all, I don't like the pedal feel. because it's got three hooks on it, the hook isn't in the right place. No matter HOW I adjusted my clutch, it either had WAY to much slop on top, or it grabbed too high. It gave a horrible clutch pedal feel.

 

[Swede958]

I just got my MM cable in also. How did you go about mounting the cable to the frame? The crimped on attachment point for the bracket on the cable is about 8" forward for where the stock one was.
Does the bracket now just guide/sit on the bare jacket? Or is there a better way?

 

[Kumm3]

I just got my MM cable in also. How did you go about mounting the cable to the frame? The crimped on attachment point for the bracket on the cable is about 8" forward for where the stock one was.
Does the bracket now just guide/sit on the bare jacket? Or is there a better way?

I had the same issue with mine, i ended up mounting it to the front of the cylinder head. Made the overall radius of the bend of the clutch cable to be as wide as possible.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

I had the same issue with mine, i ended up mounting it to the front of the cylinder head. Made the overall radius of the bend of the clutch cable to be as wide as possible.

I forgot to mention I had this same problem just like Swede958 mention with the metal bracket on the cable too far from the original cable location. I have to get under the hood again and look for another location for a wide angle for the cable. I may try the cylinder head location too if it work great for you.

 

[Kumm3]

I forgot to mention I had this same problem just like Swede958 mention with the metal bracket on the cable too far from the original cable location. I have to get under the hood again and look for another location for a wide angle for the cable. I may try the cylinder head location too if it work great for you.

I also dont have my AC installed anymore, so i had a lot more acess to the bolts, not sure how this would work if you still have the AC/PS attached.

 

[Kumm3]

Here is a few pics so you can get a better idea

First shows where the bracket bolts up on my cylinder head, second shows the large radius on the cable that it creates.

 

[Darkwriter77]

I wouldn't keep that cable that close to the exhaust. The heat exposure will shorten its lifespan quite a bit.

The stock (or at least the most common) mounting point for the bracket is near the mounting point for the bracket holding the power steering pressure hose, below and slightly rear of the battery tray on '86+ EFI models. (Don't have any pics handy here at work, unfortunately.) It keeps the cable as far away from the exhaust as possible without routing it in such a way as to create bind.

In a pinch, I suppose you could always zip-tie the cable to something on the frame. There's a lot of holes there where you could loop a zip-tie or two through there and use that just to hold it back from the exhaust, but eventually, you'll probably want to rig up something more permanent with metal.

 

[Kumm3]

Its actually not that close to the exhaust, its about 6" or more away.

Ive grabbed hold of the clutch cable at the closest point after a hard run and its barely hotter there than at the firewall.