- Nov 24, 2007
- 142
- 1
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AC HELP!!
- Thread starter Jacob_Royer
- Start date
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rabidscoobie
10 Year Member
It should be on one of the metal lines connecting to the accumulator/dryer,cant remember if its the inlet line out output line,I think its in the line on the firewall side.If you dont know what the dryer is,its the can looking thing on the passenger side next to the firewall about the sixe of a coffee can.
It's the line that runs from the condensor in front of the radiator down the passenger side of the engine bay to the accumulator bottle on the firewall.
Hardtop68
Founding Member
The orifice tube is on the liquid line... it is not replaceable unless you modify the liquid line...
Check this thread I posted some info about this matter:
http://forums.stangnet.com/755522-c-compressor-replacement-questions.html
Check this thread I posted some info about this matter:
http://forums.stangnet.com/755522-c-compressor-replacement-questions.html
- Nov 24, 2007
- 142
- 1
- 19
Hmmm.. When i bought the car the AC didnt work and i checked it and it was low on freon... I topped it off and i had ice cold ac for a day! next day it didnt work checked the pressure... it was fine! compressor kicks on kicks off kicks on kicks off thats all it does.. tried adding a wee bit more freon and it still did the same thing.. Im thinking... pressure switch or clogged orfice tube?? what is involved with changing the pressure switch on these cars?
If the orifice tube is pluged you will get abnormal presures..
since the presures are fine I would look at the cycling switch.. but it would not be a bad Idea and seperate the line and check the orifice for debris..
since the presures are fine I would look at the cycling switch.. but it would not be a bad Idea and seperate the line and check the orifice for debris..
blacksheep-1
Member
- Oct 21, 2006
- 322
- 4
- 18
I just went through some of this on my father in law's car, excellent call on the replacement piece for the liquid line orifice tube.
You need to hook up a set of guages and look at liquid and suction pressures. If the orifice tube is blocked, suction pressure will be low and pressure line may be high (or not). Also you need to verify that the blend-air door is moving and that it isn't stuck in a partially-open mode where some of the cabin air goes through the heater core making it look like the A/C is not working properly.
If compressor is kicking on and off, it doesn't sound like a plugged orifice tube. Is the drier cold to the touch?
to add to this, is the compressor short cycling? by that I mean cyling off after about a second if it is then most likely you are low on freeon and have a leak.
BTW good call on the blend door I have seen that burn people.
Hardtop68
Founding Member
Check the A/C with the engine cold... if the problem is the blend door, the A/C will work OK for a short while until the coolant gets hot...
Friend got burned with the blend air door. Bought a Taurus SHO at a used-car lot (bad idea) during the very early spring. Salesman told him "only problem is it needs a new thermostat, it is stuck open and won't produce any heat in the car." Friend bought it, hook, line and sinker. Turns out the blend air motor electronics were bad. Door would just oscillate from hot to cold. Previous owner found the connector behind the glove box and randomly disconnected it until it happened to stop on "cold" where it was left (worked fine for the summer). Needless to say, an expensive repair that had nothing to do with a stuck coolant thermostat.
