Forging a 2v

D

Dr.Jay

New Member
Jul 26, 2008
7
0
0
#1
Hey guys, this is my first post here, happy to join a forum of stang freaks! Anyways, to the point: I'm planning on forging my 99 2v. It currently has a V1 S-trim with supporting mods. It's pushes around 405-420rwhp. Engine block wise I believe it is stock (no shop work of any kind), as well as stock heads and stock cam. My question is, what would be an optimal compression to run if I plan pushing #15-16 out of my blower (not now though, it'll have to stay at 10psi for a while)? Here are my 3 options, what do u recommended?


#1 KB FORGED Dished Pistons FLAT TOP 3.572" bore
this auction is for .020" over ONLY
please email for other sizes What other sizes would be good for a stock block?
also available in .020" over with 10cc dish and 17cc dish
2618 Forged Aluminum. Fully CNC Machined
Tool Steel Pins
double spiro locks for full floating
Flat top design
3.572" -.020" over bore
good for 750+horsepower
12.1:1 compression with 46cc heads
13:1 with 42cc
11.1:1 with 52cc
10.7:1 with 54cc

#2 KB FORGED Dished Pistons 10cc 3.572" bore
this auction is for .020" over
please email for other sizes
also available in .020" over with 17cc dish and flat top
2618 Forged Aluminum. Fully CNC Machined
Tool Steel Pins
double spiro locks for full floating
10cc spherical dish
3.572" -.020" over bore
good for 750+horsepower
10.3:1 compression with 46cc heads
11.0:1 with 42cc
9.5:1 with 52cc
9.3:1 with 56cc


#3 KB FORGED Dished Pistons 17cc 3.572" bore
this auction is for .020" over ONLY
please email for other sizes
also available in .020" over with 10cc dish and flat top
2618 Forged Aluminum. Fully CNC Machined
Tool Steel Pins
double spiro locks for full floating
17cc spherical dish
3.572" -.020" over bore
good for 750+horsepower
9.4:1 compression with 46cc heads
10.0:1 with 42cc
8.7:1 with 52cc
8.5:1 with 54cc


What combo would be good? What does .020 over mean, and would it benefit me? What's 42cc, 52cc,54cc etc heads mean, and which would be mine? I really wanna do things right on the first try.... thanks in advance! :flag:
 

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#2
Welcome!
Do you plan to do the assembly work yourself or will you be using a local builder? If you are using a local builder, I'd check to see what they are currently building with - let them provide you with a solution. It sounds as if you are not completely familiar with a lot of the common terms used in engine building, and that's ok, but if you are planning to put a significant amount of money into your engine and your experience is limited, I'd really think about having someone else spec out a forged solution and build it for you. There are just too many things that could spell catastrophic failure for you to invest large amounts of time and money on your "first try". I'm in the same boat...I wouldn't do my own engine either. I have some idea of what I would like - but in the end, I'd lean on the experience of a builder with a successful track record. Just my nickels worth...

Chris
 
#3
Thanks for the reply! I'll be using a local builder, not too familiar with building an engine hehe... My engine just started rattling, and instead of just changing the rod that gave away with a stock one, I would like to put it back together a little stronger, just something to hold maybe a maxed out S-Trim... not now though, I'll be running the same old 10psi as always, so I was worried that maybe too low of a compression (8:5:1) might kill my car a little, but I could be wrong... (Idk what might my heads give out a compression :shrug:)

I'm just curious as what to ask for when I buy the parts... I don't want to over do it or lack something, I just want something stronger, not too fancy... what would you do if you were in my position? I have the money in hand, and I've been car-less for 6 months now, so I'm a little desperate :(
 
#4
A 99 should have a 44cc head and a 18.10 cc dish (01-04 have 15.8cc dish, didn't know that). Making your stock compression 8.8 apparently.
http://www.sullivanperformance.com/YVS450/tech/tech.htm

You're going to want to stick around the mid to low 9's in compression - keeps the combustion chamber cooler and makes it easier to tune and therefore less prone to having a problem. I wouldn't go with some random ebay auction, ask people around here what they use. MMR and Modular Powerhouse are good options
 
#5
I'd definately seek out a builder who is familiar with boost AND is familiar with the mod motor. Low to mid 9's, as CobraRed said, would be a good CR target to aim for.
Also as CobraRed pointed out, Modular PowerHouse is a well known and reputable vendor. In a quick look over there, I see a 600HP 4.6L shortblock for $3000.00. For a longblock, Modular Mustang Racing has their 600HP 4.6L 2V for $4700.00. ("Just add your Valve covers, oil pan and timing cover and GO!")
 
#7
I was looking for a budget build, you know, just swap pistons, rods and crankhaft, add a couple of psi and call it a day, since I already have to open the block to change the broken rod...

So you guys would say option #3 is the winner? With or without the .020 over?
 
#11
Come think of it, I think none of these suit my needs... 17cc apparently gives me more compression than I'm comfortable with, and that .020 overbore means I'd have to take the block to a shop... more excuses for the shop to rip me off...

Some guy is selling me rods, crank and pistons off a 03 Cobra, charging $1500 installed... what do you guys think?
 
#14
If you had a rod let go, you NEED to get the motor checked out to see if the cylinder walls have been scored or banged up.

If and only if the cylinder wall on that cylinder, as well as the others (have them ALL checked) come back good, then you could get away with just honing the cylinders and using stock sized pistons.

If the cylinder wall is damaged, then you will need to bore it if you plan on using the same block. .020 is probaly the least you would go to give you a fresh, workable surface to work with.

It is very important to take this step. Take it to someone who is very framiliar with building motors, tell them you want them to inspect the cylinder walls and see if they need to be bored over or not, if they are out of tolerance for measurement... you dont want them to be loose with a new set of stock sized pistons in there. It will create problems later down the road you don't want to deal with.
 
#15
jimfitzgerald said:
You would need different mounting hardware for your blower. Why would you want a '02 GT engine, other than the fact it has PI heads. I thought you wanted a forged shortblock.
Click to expand...

It's cheaper... $400 vs $1500 + ... :nice:

If I remember correctly, the SC mounting gear is pricey too... I need to sit down and analyze budget and other factors... because all of a sudden everything is looking pricey :notnice:
 
#17
Seeing double

Welcome to StangNet Dr.Jay. Can't help but notice that your name is almost identical to mine and your avatar is exactly the same as mine.

Do I have a twin I wasn't aware of or is something else wrong here:nono:
 
#20
You need option 3 with the 17cc dish. .020 means the pistons are .020" larger diameter than your stock pistons so you'll need to get the block bored and honed
.020 over and the pistons will likely need .0035" piston to wall clearance since those are 2618 and not 4032

Dr.Jay said:
Hey guys, this is my first post here, happy to join a forum of stang freaks! Anyways, to the point: I'm planning on forging my 99 2v. It currently has a V1 S-trim with supporting mods. It's pushes around 405-420rwhp. Engine block wise I believe it is stock (no shop work of any kind), as well as stock heads and stock cam. My question is, what would be an optimal compression to run if I plan pushing #15-16 out of my blower (not now though, it'll have to stay at 10psi for a while)? Here are my 3 options, what do u recommended?


#1 KB FORGED Dished Pistons FLAT TOP 3.572" bore
this auction is for .020" over ONLY
please email for other sizes What other sizes would be good for a stock block?
also available in .020" over with 10cc dish and 17cc dish
2618 Forged Aluminum. Fully CNC Machined
Tool Steel Pins
double spiro locks for full floating
Flat top design
3.572" -.020" over bore
good for 750+horsepower
12.1:1 compression with 46cc heads
13:1 with 42cc
11.1:1 with 52cc
10.7:1 with 54cc

#2 KB FORGED Dished Pistons 10cc 3.572" bore
this auction is for .020" over
please email for other sizes
also available in .020" over with 17cc dish and flat top
2618 Forged Aluminum. Fully CNC Machined
Tool Steel Pins
double spiro locks for full floating
10cc spherical dish
3.572" -.020" over bore
good for 750+horsepower
10.3:1 compression with 46cc heads
11.0:1 with 42cc
9.5:1 with 52cc
9.3:1 with 56cc


#3 KB FORGED Dished Pistons 17cc 3.572" bore
this auction is for .020" over ONLY
please email for other sizes
also available in .020" over with 10cc dish and flat top
2618 Forged Aluminum. Fully CNC Machined
Tool Steel Pins
double spiro locks for full floating
17cc spherical dish
3.572" -.020" over bore
good for 750+horsepower
9.4:1 compression with 46cc heads
10.0:1 with 42cc
8.7:1 with 52cc
8.5:1 with 54cc


What combo would be good? What does .020 over mean, and would it benefit me? What's 42cc, 52cc,54cc etc heads mean, and which would be mine? I really wanna do things right on the first try.... thanks in advance! :flag:
Click to expand...
 
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