Overheating situation need a Wise person

[67coupe]

I used water wetter in the 67 for a while. It does help, but only 5 - 7 degrees. However, this was with 50% anti-freeze. The higher the anti-freeze mixture, the lesser the effect of water wetter.

What's the climate like where you live? High temps? Humidity?

Just cruising around, taking it real easy, 220 is okay IMO. However, I would NOT get into boost at those coolant temps.

Short term, maybe you could try water wetter and 100% distilled water. This mixture has the best heat transfer properties. Water is better at transfering heat than anti-freeze. You could run that mixture to both see the new operating temp and allow the engine to break in a little more.

 

[tiptop]

just buy a stock rubber upper rad hose from ford or somewhere and put it on any try it, if it works, good, if it dont, then its something else, that will be one less item eliminated.

 

[S&B]

how am i going to fit a stock hose to my threaded fittings? they are smller than the factory neck size.

I mean I could jam play dough in the ends of the hoses and wrap a sham-WOW!! on the end but I dont want to be Ghetto

 

[Sicarius428]

I am of the opinion that the upper radiator hose is not the issue either. There is way more restriction just through the tstat than what the upper hose is capable of. Bottleneck is not the hose IMO. New motors will run pretty hot. If you don't have an oil cooler, you might consider installing one of those. Extra oil capacity and oil cooler does a lot of engine cooling on its own. Not to doubt your ability but to recap burping you must raise the front driver side of the car so that the radiator opening is the highest point in the cooling system. Turn the heater on full and let the car warm up. Just because you have flow doesn't always mean that there isn't air in the system. Make sure that you have the air dam under the radiator support. Also check your plugs for running lean.
Kevin

 

[S&B]

Ok here is an update,
I baught a new 180 thermostat today and put it in. I did not jack up the car but i did let it burp for a while then filled it up slowly after 5 min of it being at temp.

then I drove it, it never stayed at 180 at all it went right to 210-225 and stayed there when i would drive it and rev it a bit it would climb then come back down to 224. when I parked it slowly came down to 213 ish. I have looped the heater b/c i broke the pipe off the heater core the last time i pulled the engine.
I also added a water wetter. What a luck I have my fast system b/c My autometer guage reads that the car is running 10 to 20 degres higher at times then my fast. My oil in the crank case is getting hot b/c there is steam coming out of the breather caps, I have an oil tem gauge at the oil temp was pegged at 250 when I got out. If anything the car is running a bit rich righ now.

here is a pic of my old t stat look at all the holes someone drilled in there, I only put 1 hole on the new one

Now do I keep driving it at that temp or do I need to figure out why its not staying at 180?

 

[fford]

Just a couple things I came across over the years...I've had coolant flowing in the radiator with the cap off, but the bottom 1/3 of the radiator was blocked up, have you had the radiator flow tested?
Another thing I ran into was someone else who built a motor put the head gaskets in backwards and had accidentally blocked the front coolant passages, that one is harder to find without pulling the heads.

 

[1990Coupe]

looks like she's going to the HP shop for them to figure out, I really dont like the notch anymore, I have never had 1 month of the car running great ever in all 4 years of ownership. Ill just pay another 1500 bucks into the pot. Maybe ill just moth ball the car in the garage.

very frustrating working on this piece of c hit

i was thinking the same thing. If those headgaskets are in backwards it will block the ports.

I have had an issue with my jeep where i installed a 160 thermostat.. My jeep was running hot ALL the time.. turns out the radiator couldn't cool the coolant fast enough before it went back into the engine becuase the t-stat was wide open.


Also whats your mixture? If you are running more antifreeze then water you're going to run hotter.

 

[green]

fine then, i hope it overheats on you, and you seize the engine soild, was just trying to help

 

[S&B]

i highly doubt the HG's or on backwards, but I wont rule it out

 

[yogibear357]

no, I snapped the crank, so when they took the engine apart they noticed that 1 or 2 cylinders showed a tiny bit of detonation so while it was out I just replaced the rotating assembly so It wouldn't cause problems later. But everything else is the same heads, cam, radiator, (minus pushing fan)

I mean when you put your hand near the front of the car you can feel the air being sucked in its so powerful. its turned on by the DCC controller

What a pain maybe you fubar the block or cylinder wall. I know you said the radiator was flowing but maybe your thermostat is in back wards or slipped down when installing. Wonder if it runs hot with out it. if you try this just run water its cheaper until you find the problem. Mine was a minor blown head gasket took me a month to fine it. just trying to help

Jeff

 

[1991vert]

fine then, i hope it overheats on you, and you seize the engine soild, was just trying to help

rofl

it just doesn't make sense. how old is your water pump? only part i would throw at it for giggles is a new radiator cap.

they didnt mess with your timing did they?

 

[S&B]

no Everything remained the same as far as the timing goes

 

[Maryland Stang]

They went way overboard on the holes in the t-stat. That might also indicate that someone was having a big cooling problem at some point before.

Is it possible to measure the coolant temp after it goes through the rad? Your commented twice that the coolant is moving so fast that it is shooting out out of the rad. That is not normal. It may be that it is not staying in the rad long enough to get cooled down.

Do you have access to a w/p underdrive pulley?

 

[2000xp8]

SB, stop using those crappy ass thermostats.
Get a mr. gasket 180, then cross the T stat off the list of potential problems.

I also don't like water wetter as help or a solution.

 

[S&B]

do you think I should drive the car or is that temp to high, Ill get a Mr. Gasket therm if its that improtant

 

[jozan]

take your old thermostat and gut the middle out of it, when i had the jic hose on top it proved to be too much restriction to run both on the street

 

[S&B]

take your old thermostat and gut the middle out of it, when i had the jic hose on top it proved to be too much restriction to run both on the street

you mean basically run no thermostat?

do I need one? wont the fans control the temp?

 

[jozan]

you still need that outer ring so it will seal but its worth a try since you have one laying around

 

[S&B]

I just dont want to band aid a problem though, huh Im still confused

 

[yogibear357]

Most thermostats have a bleeder hole you can drill 1/8" hole if it does not have one but don't do what your old thermostat looks like and what with all the RTV?

If it ran cool before its something you did in your rebuild

Is your water pump blade in good condition

With the set up you have you are running too hot I think your head gasket is not sealing all the way or your cylinder wall is bad from snapping your crank as you said

Does it heat up at idle with the cap off