Roush Intercooler mod

mat82284

Member
Jul 31, 2003
889
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I'll bet getting a dyno tune here soon but i really want to block off that spots that the hot air gets through, so i asked the tuner (guy doing the dyno tune) about what can be done to fix this and he said he can do it for $300 or i can do it my self. If chicane wasnt so expensive i would buy it, but i wont pay for something that expensive when i know eventually i could save and use that money for my new kenny bell :)

This is what he told me to do.
make a custom sheet metal ''directional'' tray & silicone it in place. Temp
drops measure 30+ degrees from doing this. This is actually a mod
you can do yourself with a small sheet of thin guage steel or
aluminum. Simply cut, bend to give the airflow ''direction'' (which
will also cover up the excess air escape paths), clean throughly all
areas & use quality silicone sparingly only where neccessary. (you
don''t want silicone breaking free & running through the motor)
What you end up with is a ''sandwich''.....when installed you''ll see
the blower on top of the directional sheet, which is on top of the
intake manifold. A light bead of silicone instead of the factory
rubber gasket seals up the 3 layers.

Well i went ahead and tried it out, cost me all of $3 so if its not what I want or it wont work ill just remove it lol, but i went to home depot and bought 3 sheets of sheet metal. I cut it and bended it, it looks real good so far. It looks to have cleared up 97% of wholes and should bring my temps down at least 25-30degrees. He did say directional and im not sure if i did that lol, but I actually dont have my blower yet so i cant put it on and test it out. but heres some photos. Tell me what you think. As for the wholes on top, once the supercharger is seated it'll go flat.

intake1.jpg


intake2.jpg
 
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I'll bet getting a dyno tune here soon but i really want to block off that spots that the hot air gets through, so i asked the tuner (guy doing the dyno tune) about what can be done to fix this and he said he can do it for $300 or i can do it my self. If chicane wasnt so expensive i would buy it, but i wont pay for something that expensive when i know eventually i could save and use that money for my new kenny bell :)

This is what he told me to do.
make a custom sheet metal ''directional'' tray & silicone it in place. Temp
drops measure 30+ degrees from doing this. This is actually a mod
you can do yourself with a small sheet of thin guage steel or
aluminum. Simply cut, bend to give the airflow ''direction'' (which
will also cover up the excess air escape paths), clean throughly all
areas & use quality silicone sparingly only where neccessary. (you
don''t want silicone breaking free & running through the motor)
What you end up with is a ''sandwich''.....when installed you''ll see
the blower on top of the directional sheet, which is on top of the
intake manifold. A light bead of silicone instead of the factory
rubber gasket seals up the 3 layers.

Well i went ahead and tried it out, cost me all of $3 so if its not what I want or it wont work ill just remove it lol, but i went to home depot and bought 3 sheets of sheet metal. I cut it and bended it, it looks real good so far. It looks to have cleared up 97% of wholes and should bring my temps down at least 25-30degrees. He did say directional and im not sure if i did that lol, but I actually dont have my blower yet so i cant put it on and test it out. but heres some photos. Tell me what you think. As for the wholes on top, once the supercharger is seated it'll go flat.

intake1.jpg


intake2.jpg

If I had more time to mess with my car I would be doing the same thing, I would rather take the intercooler and bended sheetmetal pieces and have them mig welded/saudered to actually seal all the air in through the intercooler.

and how do you plan on keeping the sheetmetal stuck to the inner walls of the intercooler?

looks sharp though. I may try to do it too this weekend.
 
If I had more time to mess with my car I would be doing the same thing, I would rather take the intercooler and bended sheetmetal pieces and have them mig welded/saudered to actually seal all the air in through the intercooler.

and how do you plan on keeping the sheetmetal stuck to the inner walls of the intercooler?

looks sharp though. I may try to do it too this weekend.

I thought about that as well, except i have no welder lol. Also if you weld it you would have to be percise because once its welded and say they mess up and you try to put it back in and it doesnt fit then you have to start all over. But i figured that this should improve it alot, about 97% of the wholes are not being directed into the intercooler, the smaller wholes im not to worried about, I did however thing about using some silicone to mold the sheet metal together but im worried stuff would get in the intake, but i guess if its above the intercooler it should be safe, what do you think?
 
If I had more time to mess with my car I would be doing the same thing, I would rather take the intercooler and bended sheetmetal pieces and have them mig welded/saudered to actually seal all the air in through the intercooler.

and how do you plan on keeping the sheetmetal stuck to the inner walls of the intercooler?

looks sharp though. I may try to do it too this weekend.

I thought about it so i took out the pieces and used some jbweld to keep them together, I also mostly used the weld on the inside, the area behind the aluminum so the air doesn't hit it. I hope it still fits back in the slot now that i did this lol, if not ill start from scratch again. As for keeping the pieces to the inner wall that easy, the supercharger will be sitting on the metal so it wont budge, lol. The only reason i decided on doing this is because im still waiting on my head unit to get back :( hopefully its done soon.
 
I thought about it so i took out the pieces and used some jbweld to keep them together, I also mostly used the weld on the inside, the area behind the aluminum so the air doesn't hit it. I hope it still fits back in the slot now that i did this lol, if not ill start from scratch again. As for keeping the pieces to the inner wall that easy, the supercharger will be sitting on the metal so it wont budge, lol. The only reason i decided on doing this is because im still waiting on my head unit to get back :( hopefully its done soon.

jbweld is a good idead just to hold it all together, but the thing is I would still freak out about a piece coming off. I remember I used EPOXY on my 97 cobra for making my IMRC's deletes and it worked great! If you doubt the JBWELD, try EPOXY.

would there be a leak between the lower intake and the s/c once the sheetmetal is inbetween the lower and s/c? I have never taken mine off but I want to do this... I dont want to spend soooo much on the CHICANE intercooler! its too much if I plan on making the car turbo and get ride of the s/c.

Let me know how it holds up with the JBWELD.
 
jbweld is a good idead just to hold it all together, but the thing is I would still freak out about a piece coming off. I remember I used EPOXY on my 97 cobra for making my IMRC's deletes and it worked great! If you doubt the JBWELD, try EPOXY.

would there be a leak between the lower intake and the s/c once the sheetmetal is inbetween the lower and s/c? I have never taken mine off but I want to do this... I dont want to spend soooo much on the CHICANE intercooler! its too much if I plan on making the car turbo and get ride of the s/c.

Let me know how it holds up with the JBWELD.

Well so far the jb weld seems like it wont come off. After about 5 hours the weld is holding real strong. I dont think the jb weld will come off, i have seen stranger things before about jb weld holding things you would never think of. Its super strong, and i don't think 10psi could affect it, especially since the jb weld is on the back side so the supercharger air wont be be flying by it, only the on the front of it, if i make any sense lol. As for the reinstall, i bought some silicone gasket maker, so ill use that instead of the rubber one and ill use it to seal up the wholes in between the metal as well as on top, like a sandwich (bottom slice of bread is intake manafold, Top is supercharger, sheetmetal is the cheese and the gasket maker is the meat and mustard to fill inbetween) I think this will be sufficient in till i upgrade to a kenny bell. If the intercooler was $500 i would have hopped on it, but $800 is out of his mind. If i broke my supercharger a rebuild is still cheaper, or if i broke say a piston, well that $800 can go to some really nice pistons and give me more power! :) I think this will work out well. When the weld is completely cured ill take some more photos.
 
nope! that was custom made... he guys said that they bought a spearco core and got the welding done around it (I send him the pic). So I would have to have the intercooler specs to quote the spearco intercooler and then take it to someone to mig it.

Which I am thinking would just about cost roughly $800.00.
DANG!
 
I came across a pic of this:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/389000-389999/389987_89_full.jpg

Does Spearco make an intercooler for the S2 and S4??? I think that I may just call them and ask.

=)

If you look at the picture and you look at what i did on mine, it has the same internal area. I think that intercooler just might be sitting up higher or is a little deeper. All in all i what i still dont understand is those are aluminum intercoolers and our copper ones are better. Why they didnt do copper im not sure, but it would be cheaper and better if you just had someone custom weld it on for you. Or you can spend $10 in supplies and do what i did. Ill post the results tomarrow just want to make sure the jb weld is on real good.
 
We'll the directional trey worked, i actually had to revise it a little but worked out well. I pulled 320hp and 356tq or something real close. I did have 1 major problem though, my timing got pulled because the pump wasn't working. I have to either buy a new pump (i got it used) or find out how to get it flowing because it wasn't flowing at all :( I could have gotten so much more hp. He estimated 350+ Right now I'm having an issue with my AC and cruise control. I dont understand what happened, but when i turn the dial to vent or ac it only blows air from the vents next to the windshield, just like if i had it on the defroster stetting. I wonder if maybe the pump is not turned on has to do with the ac problem and the cruise control problem. Does anyone have a diagnosis?
 
We'll the directional trey worked, i actually had to revise it a little but worked out well. I pulled 320hp and 356tq or something real close. I did have 1 major problem though, my timing got pulled because the pump wasn't working. I have to either buy a new pump (i got it used) or find out how to get it flowing because it wasn't flowing at all :( I could have gotten so much more hp. He estimated 350+ Right now I'm having an issue with my AC and cruise control. I dont understand what happened, but when i turn the dial to vent or ac it only blows air from the vents next to the windshield, just like if i had it on the defroster stetting. I wonder if maybe the pump is not turned on has to do with the ac problem and the cruise control problem. Does anyone have a diagnosis?

You know... I dont have alot of time to take off my blower and do that intercooler mod, But if you make me one from the some sheet metal I would break you some bread... SOME.
and as to the ac problem you dont have the vaccum for the ac connected. So, you have a vacuum leak... if its not connected to the vaccum system then it does that... just sends air through the windshield and floor.

Sounds like you did a great mod. Help the brothers on a budget out. I would put it on the car if you make it.

And thanks for keeping the thread updated promptly.:nice:
 
You know... I dont have alot of time to take off my blower and do that intercooler mod, But if you make me one from the some sheet metal I would break you some bread... SOME.
and as to the ac problem you dont have the vaccum for the ac connected. So, you have a vacuum leak... if its not connected to the vaccum system then it does that... just sends air through the windshield and floor.

Sounds like you did a great mod. Help the brothers on a budget out. I would put it on the car if you make it.

And thanks for keeping the thread updated promptly.:nice:

I would love to make it, but my design i wouldn't consider worthy of selling. I had to modify it many times lol, but so far so good. Without the manifold i cant make another, but it wasnt to hard, what i would suggest that i didnt do is go to home depot and buy some already bent aluminum sheet metal. I thought bending them my self was easy but it didnt make a perfect bend they were kinda round ish like you see in the photo. I used some tools to bend it to a full 90 degrees. Then i used the jb weld waited 24-48 hours (also baked in over for 30 mins) Its worth the mod if you already have it off, but it was suck a pain taking the head unit on and off. I only did it because i needed a new nose. Its definitely worth it if you have the time to spare.

I found re looked at the manual and found that instead of hooking up the ac vacume i blocked it off, once i hooked it up it worked :) Now my only issues are my cruise control and i think my water pump, on the dyno my air temps hit almost 200 so the ecu dropped timing. But today when driving the air temps stayed at 130deg and moved up to 140 on occasions. I didn't go into boost so i figured thats why my temps were low, just to much traffic today so i couldn't check. Is there a way to see if the pump is working? When i would first turn on the key i don't hear the pump, but the fans turn on after 10 seconds. tomorrow i'm going to double check the wiring, i didnt prime it because i didn't know how though, Could someone explain this to me? Would not priming it not allow it to flow at all?

I tried to draw what i changed, When i put the head unit on i noticed the small circle whole on the bottom was half blocked, so removed that piece and made a small diagonal piece that went from the edge to the end of the intercooler, allowing the circle to get full access to the open space, The red lines are what i did if you understand that.
 
Ill post my dyno tomorrow when i get home and can access my scanner, but here is my graph. Look at my air temps! crazy! he said it spiked from 140-190 in one pull, thats why we suspect the pump, and i still pulled 320hp some how :) (he e-mailed me this)

Graph.bmp
 
After your fans go on feel the pump to see if its working...if its working you need to prime the pump.Take the cap off the coolant tank and blow into it ,that should start the flow you will see it moving in the tank.If that doesent work undo the coolant line on the out flow side of the pump let the coolant flow out of the line that should prime it also.

Hope this helps.:flag:
 
After your fans go on feel the pump to see if its working...if its working you need to prime the pump.Take the cap off the coolant tank and blow into it ,that should start the flow you will see it moving in the tank.If that doesent work undo the coolant line on the out flow side of the pump let the coolant flow out of the line that should prime it also.

Hope this helps.:flag:

Thanks, i forgot to repost that i got it to work. What temps do you have normally and whats your outside temp? Also is it normal for the temperature to rise to 200 during boost? Whats a good mixture 50/50? Also my alternator is only half working i have a 200amp on the way, would my car running at 13.2v be the cause of the super fast rise in temps during boost or is this just normal? Does 320hp seem right? I do have a series one with a pulley upgrade, have boost gauge on the way so im not sure what boost im really at.

Here is the dyno i promised, just have been to busy to get it up.
Dyno.JPG
 
what kind of thermastat do you have? I think that I may have to change to a 160 causing the motor to stay cooler and there would be more timing for the boost.

Have you taken off the paint from the heat exchanger!? I am planning on doing this tomorrow.
 
what kind of thermastat do you have? I think that I may have to change to a 160 causing the motor to stay cooler and there would be more timing for the boost.

Have you taken off the paint from the heat exchanger!? I am planning on doing this tomorrow.

Mine is stock. I just bought a 180* thermostat i heard 180 is the right number and that 160 is to cold because our modular engines work better when warmer. As for timing that is all about the air intake temp on the engine temp. The air passes through the engine to fast to be heated up, what heats it up is the compressed air that is being made by the supercharger which happens supper fast. I would suggest getting some royal purple adaptive that will make the coolant on your engine and your supercharger cooler, just add it to both reservoir tanks. As for the paint, i just spray painted mine silver :) Removing the paint could be alot harder and more costly.