A rotten egg smell? That's sulfer and usually a sign of a bad converter sometimes
Nothing states that fuel injection cleaning is $500. Replacing spark plugs and coil packs are $510. Fuel injection cleaning on the invoice shows $80.3) a 500 dollar fuel injection cleaner? Man, whats this world coming to. Go to autozone, buy some "sea foam" shove that isht in the brake booster and watch the smoke show..voila..cost you 5 bucks. Jiffy lube and other hack shops do the "Fuel injection" cleaning for about 69.99 if you have absolutley no technical knowledge.
you know, i believe it's impossible to hydrolock the engine or do any sort of engine damage from seafoam. I'm just not aware of any way you can get this stuff into the engine so fast it hydrolocks. You can pour it straight into the brake booster, upside down with an air compressor flange welded to the back of the bottle and i still doubt you could flow enough to hydrolock. I feel it's just a myth.
Seafoam in the gas tank..meh, won't hurt anything, probably wont help anything either. Techron is better for that. As far as in the oil, i did that to my jetta and it was never the same. I drove around with it in the crank case for a bout a week and i started getting blue smoke out the tail pipe. I think its best to just leave it in the oil for 5 or 10 minutes and drain it if going that route. Seafoam, IMO is only good as a direct fuel injection cleaner..like through a vaccum line or machine.
what the hell is a 25% misfire
test the resistance of the coils and slap some new plugs in that bich. If you don't have an ohm meter, wait till night time and spray some water over the coils and look for sparks.
Then get some CRC MAF cleaner and call it a day
I'm not aware of any ford re flash of the ECM that fixes a misfire, or a 'rotten egg' smelling car. I don't know about ford, but at the VW dealer, Reflashes are free of charge, and are preformed without the customers consent.
A rotten egg smell? That's sulfer and usually a sign of a bad converter sometimes
from one auto tech to another........behave. there is no "follow my steps to success" when it comes to fixing a vehicle. no two cars with the same problem are always fixed the same. might be same symptoms, but different solutions to it. anyone that knows from experience knows that following a scanner religiously is dumb. scanners are scan TOOLS. tools that help the tech fix the problem. it is up to the tech to figure out what the real problem is by checking all affecting sensors/mechanical equipment.
hell it'd be a beautiful day when i can hook up our solus scanner and it told me exactly how to fix a car, never mind the codes that were "lied to" but getting down to the source. would make my job a hell of a lot easier and more profitable. but until that happens, were still going to keep diagnosing automobile problems and only with experience will we become faster and more knowledgeable to help the customers spend less.
to the original poster, if you would like to save some money, find out what the real problem is and fix that. or if you want to start following somebodys elses list, you just might get lucky in the first couple of parts you throw on that bady boy. whatever you decide to do. good luck.
little example, little brothers fox was throwing codes 41 and 91. bank 1 and 2 running lean. previous owners replaced both o2s, egr, and maybe even the maf (looks newish) in hopes of fixing it. it didnt. they did it because thats what the codes "suggested" to replace to fix the problem. then we bought the car and after much reading and diagnosing i found the problem. a fubile link that supplied power to both o2s was blown, fixed that and the car runs great now. all those other parts that the previous owner spent wasnt necessary. money that could of stayed in his pocket.
Is there anything I can do to the filter?? it is a green filter if that makes an difference, its reusable, is there a good way to clean it?? or are those chemicals to soaked in now to really matter and i should just get a new one?
One question Kramer03GT... all this happened all of a sudden? all these parts failed within a narrow time-frame?
I would only fix one thing first... I would scan the car again and check that the MAF is out of range (not giving a reliable signal to the PCM)... I would clean it... if this doesn't work, replace MAF only...
The likelihood of so many things failing together are nil... 3 coils, MAF, plugs, dirt fuel system, PCM reflash...