Holey 670 Street Avenger - Choke adjustment

[SadbutTrue]

Whats the proper way to go about adjusting these things' electric chokes? Every morning mine seems to over-exert itself and the car runs pretty rough for quite a while (but once it warms up, it runsg reat). The fast idle stays on too long, and until it adequately warms up there's generally a hesitation and... well... like i said its rough.

I used to have the tuning DVD but can't find it. Anyone know how to set it so that its basically never on or turns off as fast as possible (I live in SoCal... there's probably 3 days a year I even need it).

Thanks

 

[dchandler60]

you might try this i got it off holley site,, maybe it will help CHOKE ADJUSTMENT:
Electric Choke:
IMPORTANT: The STREET AVENGER carburetor has been factory wet-flowed and calibrated. The “out of the box”
settings should be very close for all adjustments. The following tuning section is included ONLY to aid
you in fine tuning adjustments.
1. You can control the choke operation by rotating the choke cap. If the choke comes off too soon, loosen the three screws
and rotate the choke cap counterclockwise one notch at a time, until the choke operation is satisfactory. Rotate the choke
cap clockwise, if the choke comes off too late. After making the final adjustments, start the engine and make sure the
choke plate opens completely.
A. A choke that comes off too soon could exhibit one or more of the following symptoms: stalling, surging, backfiring,
stumbles, or poor vehicle driveability when the vehicle is cold.
B. A choke that comes off too late could exhibit one or more of the following symptoms: black smoke from the tail pipe,
poor driveability when cold, poor gas mileage, misses, or rough idle.
2. From the factory, the choke cap has built-in limiters. If choke operation is unsatisfactory and you have adjusted the choke
cap in either direction to the limiters with unsatisfactory results, recheck your positive electrical line connection.
3. If the fast idle RPM is too low or too high for your preferences, TURN THE ENGINE OFF. Advance the throttle to wideopen,
exposing the fast idle set screw below the choke housing (See Figure 9).
4. Using a 1/4” open end wrench, turn the screw clockwise to increase the RPM or counterclockwise to decrease the RPM.
The factory setting should give you a 1500-1600 RPM fast idle speed.
NOTE: All vacuum ports must be plugged at this time.

good luck

 

[D.Hearne]

Best way to adjust it? Remove the whole thing,(the choke assembly) toss it in the scrap bucket. Start car.

 

[66overhaul]

Street Avenger

Hi:
The Street Avenger is one of the more popular aftermarket carbs I've seen for the early Mustangs. The first reply here gives you all of the basic information you should need to tune the choke. I would add, though, to make sure you have a full 12-volts going to the red wire. Do not hook it up to anything that is not constant 12-volts, because it simply will not function right.

If the adjustments don't work look at the other parts of the carb, partuicularly the fuel mix and vacuums.

Good Luck.

66overhaul.

 

[SadbutTrue]

Best way to adjust it? Remove the whole thing,(the choke assembly) toss it in the scrap bucket. Start car.

I had considered that. In Socal there has to be about 3 hours a year total that a choke is needed...

 

[D.Hearne]

That's what I do with all my Holleys first thing. Every trace of the choke is removed. The slot where the choke linkage passes though the throttle body can be plugged with a screw thru the nylon slider in the slot. My 89 Ranger's 5.0 starts and idles with no choke down to 25*F. The Comet's 331 takes a minute or two of throttle feathering til it idles. If the timing is advanced to where it makes the most power and then the idle mixture is set to match, it should idle with only a minute or so(at most) of throttle with a good ignition system. The Ranger has a Crane XR-1/Mallory Promaster coil in a reman points distributor. The Comet has a Duraspark system

 

[66 Restomod]

That's what I do with all my Holleys first thing. Every trace of the choke is removed. The slot where the choke linkage passes though the throttle body can be plugged with a screw thru the nylon slider in the slot. My 89 Ranger's 5.0 starts and idles with no choke down to 25*F. The Comet's 331 takes a minute or two of throttle feathering til it idles. If the timing is advanced to where it makes the most power and then the idle mixture is set to match, it should idle with only a minute or so(at most) of throttle with a good ignition system. The Ranger has a Crane XR-1/Mallory Promaster coil in a reman points distributor. The Comet has a Duraspark system

I have my 670 avenger off the car right now. How exactly would I remove all the choke pieces? I think I removed everything already, except for the plate on the top of the primary. (The one with the arm that goes threw the throttle body...) Do I remove that one too? I don't know much about carbs yet... TIA

 

[Gud T.B. Blown]

I had a 670 and the same problem getting the choke to un-choke after the engine was warmed up. It was connected to constant 12V power and I rotated the choke housing left and right incrementally and finally gave up and disconnected it from power.
I am running a Holley 700dp and after the carb was properly tuned it starts up and idles just like DHearne says.
For a while cold start up was such a PITA I was going to buy a fuel injections system The only reason I didn't was an emergency came up and the funds went that way. While saving back up I had the carb adjusted/tuned by a professional and what a world of difference that made. Even though I again have the funds for FI I'm going to stick with the carb.

 

[gonzothegreat]