Urethane paintjob vs base/clear

chaos254

Founding Member
Jul 27, 2002
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I stopped by a shop earlier today that I've heard some good things about. They are supposed to be like Maaco but they do really good work for the price. I checked out an older mustang that they had just painted, it looked really good. They had urethane paintjobs and base/clear paintjobs. There is a big price difference between the two. What are the pross/cons of each? Both included 5 year warranties on the paint. Anybody on here have their car painted with urethane? Any pictures?Thanks
 
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Basicly the base clear is 2 different applications. One base (color) and one clear (shine). Generally each will have 2-4 coats so its a little more involved.

Urethane is a color and shine coat all in one stage. Spray say 3-4 coats and wetsand and buff.

Done right neither is bad its the prep before paint and the painter taking his time and doing each one correctly.

Asking what type of paint, what type of prep work, how many coats, and asking around if the avg./general quality is good from others who had work done are questions to ask.
 
I'll probably need to get my car painted at some point too. Not to steal the thread, but what would a quality job cost?

chaos254: What are the prices you are looking at?
 
95strokePSU: I can't think of the shop off hand but I have the name at work, it was something simple like The Body and Paint shop.

GRGT1994: Quality job...$2500 on up(just depends on how crazy you want to get). A budget base/clear will run about ~$1500-$2000

I know for what I plan on spending that I am not going to get a show paintjob, which my car will never be anyways. I just want something that looks good and will last for few years. Anything has to look better than my mismatched car lol.

I'm on a tight budget so the urethane paintjob is looking pretty good. All the money I would save could go to some new seats or whatever else I need.
 
I'm on a tight budget so the urethane paintjob is looking pretty good. All the money I would save could go to some new seats or whatever else I need.

I'll let you know how mine comes out next week... I am using an oil based enamel single stage paint...

Including a used rear bumper cover, a new fender, a hood scoop that I am molding on, an aluminum fuel filler door, buying the HVLP gun, sandpaper, etc, etc, etc, I am going to be into mine for between $600 and $700 for a two tone paint job... Black over Orange... Here is a pic of the car after my first coat of orange (some runs, some orange peel, thin on the top since I planned to two tone it anyway)... But hey I learned on this coat of paint...
 

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I really want to find some info on that new water based auto paint. I have seen it on TV a few times but would like to find someone who has used it on a DIY basis.

My worry is if I paint my car myself at either my house or the in-laws (they have a barn that my father-in-law uses to to store his tools (snap-on franchise owner) with normal paint the risk of someone calling the EPA or something. Its not a big issue at the in-laws since they live on 6ac. with neighbors with land as well. I just dont want to cause an issue.
 
I really want to find some info on that new water based auto paint. I have seen it on TV a few times but would like to find someone who has used it on a DIY basis.

My worry is if I paint my car myself at either my house or the in-laws (they have a barn that my father-in-law uses to to store his tools (snap-on franchise owner) with normal paint the risk of someone calling the EPA or something. Its not a big issue at the in-laws since they live on 6ac. with neighbors with land as well. I just dont want to cause an issue.

I was going to go this route, but everything I read says to stay away from Laquer paint... and I think the fumes are worse...

I used this stuff from Valspar since it is meant to be sprayed without a booth...
Tractor & Implement Enamel | Valspar Agricultural Finishes

My car is New Kubota Orange and Gloss Black... It'll look great parked next to my Mahindra loader... :(

Once I am done and have more pics I plan to do a quick write-up of what I have learned...
 
The laquer paint is not good, it is reversable and never really hardens.

I am talking about the new (few years at most) water paint tech. I dont think it is laquer based from what I recall or at least not the same if it is even a little. I think it shares some things with application but it is water based.

The "americas most beautiful hotrod" award went to a car with the new water based paint.
 
The single stage will not last like a base/clear. When you polish a single stage you are removing paint material from the vehicle. Plus over time it will cost in polishing, maintenace, etc you are looking at a few years at best.

With a base/clear paint you will get better UV protection. Most catalyzed clears today can last 12-15 years depending on conditions. The base/clear also takes alot less maintenance to achieve the deeper wet look. You can also clear over a water based base coat. If you plan on keeping the car for a while I would go with the base/clear. Otherwise you will be spending more $ on paint down the road if you keep the car
 
I'll let you know how mine comes out next week... I am using an oil based enamel single stage paint...

Including a used rear bumper cover, a new fender, a hood scoop that I am molding on, an aluminum fuel filler door, buying the HVLP gun, sandpaper, etc, etc, etc, I am going to be into mine for between $600 and $700 for a two tone paint job... Black over Orange... Here is a pic of the car after my first coat of orange (some runs, some orange peel, thin on the top since I planned to two tone it anyway)... But hey I learned on this coat of paint...

yeah definitely keep me updated. I'd love to see some pics when your finished.