Has anyone installed a TKO600 in a 1968 Mustang Fastback or coupe? What did you have to do? any cutting involved?
TKO600 install
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Did you have to do any cutting? Did it mount in the same place as the stock transmission mounts are?
I've got a TKO600 in my 66.
My first approach was "form before function", i.e. no cutting or modification of the body what so ever.
Second approach, next year..., was "function before form", i.e. I cut the transmission tunnel etc to get correct U-joint angles.
Without cutting the tunnel:
1. You have to use a dropped transmission cross member, which will lead to poor oil drain back if you still have the original front sump solution.
2. Also, worth mentioning is horrible U-joint angles, which will cause severe vibraitons, and worn tailshaft bushings etc.
"I've been there, done that, bought the t-shirt."
Rgrds;
My first approach was "form before function", i.e. no cutting or modification of the body what so ever.
Second approach, next year..., was "function before form", i.e. I cut the transmission tunnel etc to get correct U-joint angles.
Without cutting the tunnel:
1. You have to use a dropped transmission cross member, which will lead to poor oil drain back if you still have the original front sump solution.
2. Also, worth mentioning is horrible U-joint angles, which will cause severe vibraitons, and worn tailshaft bushings etc.
"I've been there, done that, bought the t-shirt."
Rgrds;
Have a look at this thread if you are interested in info regarding u-joint angles etc.
http://forums.stangnet.com/690482-driveshaft-angle-question.html
http://forums.stangnet.com/690482-driveshaft-angle-question.html
69gmachine
Member
What shifter are you using? I have a TKO 600 conversion with a Pro 5.0 shifter. The handle is an original 69 4 speed handle that was cut and welded to bolt to the Pro 5.0 shifter. It shifts just fine except for reverse. Are you sure your clutch is adjusted properly?
For the price it's hard to find a 5 speed that can handle over 500 ft-lbs of torque and bolts in relatively easy. The one draw back is the height of the front cover. To minimize cutting on the floor pan, I had the top cover modified by having a 1/2" milled off the top of the aluminum top piece, and a new sheet metal inspection cover fabricated. I did have to cut the hole oversize for the shifter to fit however.
70vert
New Member
Did it in my '70 using the Modern Driveline kit with no problems, no cutting, no vibration, etc. Reading all this makes me want to go back and measure my driveshaft angle. I believe the '70 trans tunnel is as wide and tall as the '70, but I'd research this if I were you. My rear end does not sit very low, and how low you have the rear suspension plays into it. Realize that if you are lowering the rear of the chassis, that is moving your driveshaft angle relative to the rear end. As the rear of the car is lowered, the driveshaft wants to point up at the back.
When I get mine back from the 9" rear install, I'll see what the angle is . . .
When I get mine back from the 9" rear install, I'll see what the angle is . . .
To get the driveline angle correct you will have to notch the tunnel support brace at the least. I have a bb and raised the tunnel 3/4". If I were not to cut it the engine set at 6 degrees. That is a lot of angle. It looked ridiculous setting in there like that not top mention the ujoints.
There are people out there doing it without but not me. I do have a dropped crossmember that I don't need. I have pics but have never tried to post here before.
If you were to lower the engine a bit you could probably get by with just cutting sections from the tunnel support.
Edit: I just looked at your cardomain site. You surely are not concerned about cutting the tunnel with all of those mods LOL . Man those meats look bad. I may have to go coilover to fit something like that. Just receive my front coilover today. John
There are people out there doing it without but not me. I do have a dropped crossmember that I don't need. I have pics but have never tried to post here before.
If you were to lower the engine a bit you could probably get by with just cutting sections from the tunnel support.
Edit: I just looked at your cardomain site. You surely are not concerned about cutting the tunnel with all of those mods LOL . Man those meats look bad. I may have to go coilover to fit something like that. Just receive my front coilover today. John
I wonder what angle my 9 inch is set at.
What cross member did you guys use? i can't seem to find one.
What cross member did you guys use? i can't seem to find one.
mustbereel
Member
I installed mine with the drop trans mount first. The angle looked so bad I pulled it right back out and raised the trans tunnel 1.5". Everything lines up nicely now. If I were to do it again I would not hesitate to raise the trans tunnel.
I notched the tunnel support and then boxed in the cut out area to regain most of the original rigidity (and make it look cleaner). I also used an offset shifter which places the shifter about an inch left and back. This way the shifter is closer to my hand without leaning forward or having a steeply raked shifter handle.
View attachment 297188
View attachment 297188
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No cutting at all, it bolted right in. I did use a different tranny mount from Dark Horse but that bolted into the stock location.
I think I got the crossmember from Dallas Mustang. It wouldn't suprise me if there is only one manufacturer, most shops seem to carry them.
It fit fine as is but to improve the driveline angle I cut the rear mount off and welded it up higher. Roughly one inch higher at the rear of the trans made the front of the trans a half inch higher which is what I gained from my tunnel mod. You could accomplish the same thing by using spacers on the rear mount which is what I did when I was mocking things up.
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fast_back_gta
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- Nov 10, 2007
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