Starting problem.

You'd be testing across the disconnected switch for resistance.
If testing with the wires connected, you'd be doing voltage checks.


If you pull the starter relay in the underhood fusebox, jump terminals 87 and 30 (the relay has numbers embossed on it, adjacent the terminals). You must be sure the Emergency Brake is applied and the car is in neutral because you'll be bypassing the safety interlock circuit.

If your key is turned to run and you do this, the car will crank and start if it's able. If you don't have the ignition turned on, the car will just crank.

Thanks for the help.

I tested the clutch safety switch for resistance and also bypassed it and it is working fine but still will not start...Just clicks.
I ran another battery cable to the block and grounded it to check and make sure i have a good ground. Still will not start just clicks.
I removed the relay in the under hood fuse box and tested the ports.
Pin #30 had 11.9 volts 85 and 86 nothing.

In my Chilton book in the trouble shooting area for the starter it says to;
1) Check for voltage between fender apron relay start terminal and case ground. Voltage should be 12-12.5 V.
"I don't know or can find out what this is"
??????????:shrug::stupid::shrug:??????????

2) How do I check the Anti Theft contact?

3) How do I check the ignition switch or should I just replace it?

I'm getting fed up with this problem and am glad it's not my daily driver.
 
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I removed the relay in the under hood fuse box and tested the ports.
Pin #30 had 11.9 volts 85 and 86 nothing.

11.9 V means your battery is very discharged. Put a charger on it.
86 (or possibly 85) will only show 12 volts while cranking with the clutch safety switch closed. If neither 86 or 85 showed power in that situation but you had power leaving the CSS, the wiring between the CSS and starter relay has an open.



In my Chilton book in the trouble shooting area for the starter it says to;
1) Check for voltage between fender apron relay start terminal and case ground. Voltage should be 12-12.5 V.
"I don't know or can find out what this is"
??????????:shrug::stupid::shrug:??????????

Bad manual info. You dont have an apron solenoid - fox III's do. Your solenoid piggybacks your starter itself.



3) How do I check the ignition switch or should I just replace it?


If you're hearing a click when trying to start it, you can all but assume your ignition switch is fine. As far as the starter circuit goes (with regard to the ig switch), either 12 volts leaves the switch or it doesn't). It sounds like you have power leaving it.
 
Thanks to all who have helped me with my starting problem.
And special thanks to HISSIN50.
The problem was one of the ground wires. I replaced all the battery posts and the neg cables and it started kind of:mad:.
Now the car will not run.
It starts but it's like it's flooding out and you have to keep it at almost full throttle to get it to run. It coughs and smokes.
 
The car has sat for almost 2 months with the starting problem and the battery has been disconnected so many times did the computer lose its memory?
It will start but runs like crap and will not stay running without almost full throttle, smokes and misses.

I have tried to run my code scanner but it will not even pick up codes or run the scan complete.
 
Before my car first had it's starting problem it was running perfect and I had no problems. All I did was drive home turn the car off and 1 hour later went to leave and nothing. Would not start! Replaced the starter, starter relay and all the cables and it starts but runs like crap.

What now?:shrug::shrug::shrug::shrug::shrug::shrug: