someone bought my car and is having problems with the axle leaking oil...need info

As mentioned, normally the axle seal is found inside the axle tube and its rubber sealing lip rides on the axle.

Aftermarket axles often come with special bearings that have O-rings for axle seals. They do not use the factory stuff and the axle is not machined for the rubber lips, as mentioned above. The O-ring fits in a receiver groove on the outside of the bearings diameter and that O-ring seals against the housing's bearing bore. It is highly probable that the axles/bearings may have been replaced when the spool was added.

Here is a picture of an aftermarket Moser axle with wheel bearing and O-ring seal that I have in my Mustang:

Axles007.jpg
 

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As mentioned, normally the axle seal is found inside the axle tube and its rubber sealing lip rides on the axle.

Aftermarket axles often come with special bearings that have O-rings for axle seals. They do not use the factory stuff and the axle is not machined for the rubber lips, as mentioned above. The O-ring fits in a receiver groove on the outside of the bearings diameter and that O-ring seals against the housing's bearing bore. It is highly probable that the axles/bearings may have been replaced when the spool was added.

Here is a picture of an aftermarket Moser axle with wheel bearing and O-ring seal that I have in my Mustang:

Axles007.jpg
the axle had moser 31 spline axles.

Can you just install the aftermarket end seals that go into the tube near the center part of the diff to keep the oil out of the tubes?

Also, where can you find those offset axle seals zookeeper was talking about? I looked around and couldnt find them
 

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DONT PAY FOR ANYTHING.
If you pay for any part your a idiot, dont let him make you feel bad, He is a fricken crook.
That said, ALL ford 9 inch rears have axles seals, He said he took it to different shops, He lies like hel*. I hate people like this.
Im a mechanic for over 35 years and I never seen a 9 inch axle without a seal,
why, because ford always put seals in them, this guy pis*es me off.
The 2 types are.. large bearing which mostly is the taper bearing on the axle end has the seal behind the bearing ON THE AXLE..
The small bearing is the permanantly greased roller bearing and this type has the seal IN THE AXLE housing.
By the way, I just bought a Ford model "T" and the engine just through a rod,
I think i will SUE ford and all the past owners.:mad::mad::mad::mad:
POST THIS JERKS EMAIL
 
the axle had moser 31 spline axles.

Can you just install the aftermarket end seals that go into the tube near the center part of the diff to keep the oil out of the tubes?

Also, where can you find those offset axle seals zookeeper was talking about? I looked around and couldnt find them

OK, that explains the O-ring seal. The bearing/axle I pictured was also a Moser, but it is a 33 spline unit which is larger in diameter under the bearing than the factory uses and thus requires the special bearing.

I am not familiar with the seals that you linked. I don't know what the sealing surface rides on to seal against the axle or where the seal would set in the housing.

I do know that the aftermarket bearing retainer (seen on the LH side of the pic I posted, against the bearing) is wider than the factory retainer and this would more than likely prevent me from using a factory type seal. Of course in my case the axle diameter is bigger there too so the seal wouldn't fit in the first place. The 31 spline axle might be larger there too. A call to Moser might clarify if the stock type stuff can be substituted.

The O-ring seal pictured does work, but the bore of the housing needs to be relatively perfect. I know that this doesn't help, but I sanded my bore until it was smooth of all imperfections prior to installing my axles, plus I lubed the O-ring. Some people use a hone to finish them and that might be a possibility in your case if the bores are indeed rough.

What is the definition of a posi when mounted in a Ford since Ford did not use the term? If the terms limited slip or locker weren't used in the ad and you didn't sell the car with an open type differential, I see no moral problem with it having a spool and calling it is a posi. It may not be what he wants, but it isn't fraud nor your problem if it doesn't been his expectations. Also, unless you wrote that the rear that you included a warranty, I wouldn't worry too much about the buyer's claims in general as it is a 40 year old used car.

Perhaps a pair of aftermarket "replacement" 31 spline axles (like Superior brand-Summit $320) would work. They would require that the original seal bore be decent enough to hold a factory type seal (silcone helps if it is scratched.) There would also be the cost of 2 factory type wheel bearings plus it would need an original pair of axle retainers (28spine retainer is the same.) The bearing would need to be pressed on. About $500 for this route. . . . . I used Superiors in my 9" for quite a while, which replaced the 28 spline Mustang 8" axles I had used for years.
 

That picture obviously shows an axle seal leak. I have dealt with my fair share of them and if I was looking to buy your car, I would have noticed that like an educated buyer should. On top of that, replacing the seal is maybe a $5 and 30 minute driveway job. This guy is trying to wring you out for hundreds, if not thousands of dollars and being a real ass in the process.

"Caveat emptor" is the motto of buying on the used market. Don't expect to get a flawless 43 year old car for non-Barrett-Jackson prices. I look at a used car expecting it to need something regardless of what the seller says and I don't expect them to do anything about it unless they are blatantly fraudulent. I don't think fraud was even a factor in this situation.

I think you should tell him to piss up a rope in the most polite way you care to.
 
For starters, the guy's being an a**. I'm going to feel comfortable in assuming that you didn't say/write anything inflammatory to warrant his reactions in those e-mails. If he's going to go through e-bay for fraud, I would say you have even better evidence of harassment by him. His e-mails are over the line.

The most important things that he said were in that second e-mail that you posted. For one, he noticed the possible leak in the pics. He even asked about it. You told him that you knew of no problems. I don't think that your intent was to mislead him. You simply didn't know. If I were putting out the $$$ for the car, and that pic threw up a 'red flag' for me then I would want to check it out or have it inspected. He's mad at himself for going against his own better judgment, and not checking it out.

He said it himself THREE TIMES: "I took you at your word." Well, that was his mistake, and he's just p.o.'d about it. He had the option of doing more than just accepting your word. HE OPTED OUT. End of discussion.

I can appreciate your wanting to help a guy out. But, the car was sold as-is. I don't think you should spend a single penny.

He implied that you didn't do the work, didn't know much about the car, and (seemingly, by default) that he knows more than you. Fine. Then, he should have decided to bring his all-knowing a** to look at the car before buying. He's trying to play on your emotions and conscience by saying you had bad intentions, when you did not.

I've had several different vintage musclecars. And, on my budget, all of them were project cars that needed plenty of TLC. As others have said, when you buy a 40-year-old car, you're not getting showroom new or warranties.

Finally, FWIW, I am speaking from experience. I bought my wife's car on e-bay nearly 5 years ago. Even though it had been inspected, I personally drove and looked at it myself before committing to buy. I live in Louisville, KY. The car was in a suburb outside of Chicago. I took a day off of work, and hit the road early for a 6-hour trip each way. Left my house at 7 a.m. and got back home at 4 a.m. the next day and went to work. I know that our world is getting smaller w/ the internet, but some things still require you to put your hands and eyes on them in person before you can be as certain as possible that they are right for you.

Sorry about the long post and rant, but I really feel that this guy is being a jerk and trying to take advantage of you. Speaking to a lawyer is a good thought, if it eases your mind. But, is is "buyer beware" in this market. I don't think he has a legal leg to stand on. You had no ill intentions, and he's just trying to sleep better at night by making you feel like you did.

Good luck. Peace.
 
You have NO legal obligation to repair or help repair anything on that car.I have been through this when i was about 21.I sold a Chevy S-10 that was good running conditiion when I sold it.The guy cam and was all giddy becasue this thing was spotless,custom paint,IROC wheels, lowered etc. He GAVE me cash and then test drove it. 2 weeks later he calls saying the wheels didnt fit right and I owe him $2000 for the wheels his freind(a mechainic) told him to get as well as a cracked flywheel.He cliamed he was going to sue me.

I spoke with a lawyer, basically anythign sold used is "assumed as is" unless otherwise specified.Tell him to pound sand.
 
I read the whole thread and I don't have anything to add about the leak - it seems that he knew about it before the sale, so that's that.

The one thing I think is important is that it was advertised with a posi, and not with a spool. If you said "I don't know what's in it" you should be covered. But by selling it as coming with a posi, that could be a problem. What about meeting the guy halfway? He's asking for $1k, give him $500. I don't know if that will cover a posi and installation, but he should consider it a fair compromise.
 
The one thing I think is important is that it was advertised with a posi, and not with a spool.
If the buyer drove the car then handed money over, there is NO mistaking a spool for posi, unless he is clueless.If the seller was only stating what was told to himi when he bought it, he is not misleading in anyway.

Again, i would offer nothing,zero,zip.

As soon as you offer something(which you might have), you are accepting responsibility and acknowledging you did mislead him.
 
screw that guy..I wouldnt fix anything. Like said above, you have no legal responsibility to fix the car. He bought a used car, he got a used car.

Are you sure he didnt roll around with the parking brake on and blow a brake cylinder? I did something like that when I was 16 and that is what it looked like.
 
worst case scenario you get a negative feedback, if you help him out im wondering what he will ask for or complain about next. Ive never sold a car on ebay but ive sold lots of stuff on there over the yrs... seeing stuff like this makes me grateful im not selling on ebay anymore.

good luck.... and remember FCK THAT FCKING FCKER!
 
I bought a 65 mustang and the engine was blue. Looking at it before hand, the guy said it could have been repainted. Bought it, and when I did the checking (removing the starter and the bolts came out easy!), it was a 66. I had a good idea about it going in, so no big deal.

This is the same thing. He said oil leak? (Cause he saw it!) You said no. It was. No big deal.

Do I like the guy that sold me the 66 engine in a 65? No. But I don't have too. He was selling the car I wanted and that was the extent of it. He owes me nothing more and I owe him nothing more. It isn't like you can buy these new anymore, you get what you get.

I know you feel bad about it and this guy is being a dick about it. If you don't put your foot down, this guy won't learn his lesson and he will rail-road the next seller he comes across.