It just keeps on coming...

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.
10 Year Member
Jan 8, 2006
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Louisiana
Now I have ANOTHER PROBLEM.

A while back Ihad 3 PS pumps lock up. Turns out it was air in the system. Atleast thats what the guy that fixed it told me, and hes a pretty reliable guy.

Well it just locked up again. I havent even touched anything on the steering system since I got it back.

So what the hell would cause my PS system to keep getting air in it?

Heres the original thread.
http://forums.stangnet.com/756525-am-i-gonna-have-change-my-whole-steering-rack.html
 
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that kind of thing can be a pita. you could very well be using the wrong fluid. as far as flushing the fluid i would just take the lines loose at the rack and get the fluid out that way.

another question, how long has the pump taken to lock up on average after being replaced?

not sure if you have done it as far as getting the air bubbles out but i have always put the fluid in and let it sit for a few min with the cap off then crank the car up, recheck the fluid, then with the wheels off the ground, slowly turn the wheels left and right all the way about 10 times each way, then let the car sit with the cap off for about 5-10 min to get all of the air out. this may have to be repeated a few times to get the air out but it works to do it that way.
 
To flush it, I disable the ignition (remove the electrical connector from the coil). Then undo the return line at the cooler. You'll have to plug the line going towards the pump or else when you put fluid into it, it will just pour out of the pump rather than flushing through the system.

Then add fluid and crank the engine till the reservoir is down to min. Repeat till you have clear new Type F coming out the dump line (which you're dumping into a bucket).

I do the bleeding the same way as FGTFL, with the lock to lock turns, while the front end is in the air.

FWIW, if your other pumps were cavitating, you should have known (noise and jerky steering).
 
To flush it, I disable the ignition (remove the electrical connector from the coil). Then undo the return line at the cooler. You'll have to plug the line going towards the pump or else when you put fluid into it, it will just pour out of the pump rather than flushing through the system.

Then add fluid and crank the engine till the reservoir is down to min. Repeat till you have clear new Type F coming out the dump line (which you're dumping into a bucket).

I do the bleeding the same way as FGTFL, with the lock to lock turns, while the front end is in the air.

FWIW, if your other pumps were cavitating, you should have known (noise and jerky steering).
There was/is a noise. But Im posotive its from the smog pump.
that would be me lol.

did the power steering pump make a whining noise before it went out. also what type of fluid are you using

Im using regular PS fluid.
 
Ok, I went talk to the guy that fixed it teh first time. He told me to jack up the front, crank it, lock it one way, kill it, let it sit for 15-20 minutes, then do the same the other way. I noticed a puddle of PS fluid when I was jacking it up, and its overflowing from teh reservoir. When I locked it one way, I looked at the fluid and the top is really foamy and pink instead of red.
 
that would be me lol.

:rlaugh:


The weird, crappy shorthand I use late at night make me :notnice:



Eric, regarding your last:
Type F is a very 'bitey' fluid (it has a high coefficient of friction). This is what I would use personally.


If you have not been turning the wheels with the car off (doing this will cause the reservoir to overflow), and the res was not overfilled, there would seem to be an imbalance in fluid flow. Foamy fluid suggests cavitation.
 
THe proper way to do it is to use a vacuum pump with the adapter that fits to the reservoir opening, pump it to ten inches or fifteen inches of vacuum and then go lock to lock at least ten times. Ive installed new racks that recommended thirty times back and forth while under vacuum. Also, dont hold it at full lock too long, good way to put excessive strain on the pump. Usually after fifteen times lock to lock under vacuum, the air will be gone from the system. The fluid will look pink and bubbly as the air is drawn out. Granted, with only a pump having been replaced there SHOULDNT be that much air in the system but it all depends on how the overall replacement procedure was done. IE, was the pump filled with fluid before starting for the first time?? And for whats its worth, Fords are filled with ATF from the factory. Everythings been swapped to Mercon V now but considering the age of our cars, the old formulations would be fine.
 
Zero Chance, do they seriously use MV instead of Type F if an older Ford comes in for service?

I know they superceded everything but I'd be pissed if an old C-series trans (for instance) on some old Stang got MV while at the dealership. Ditto for the PS system on our stangs.
 
ok now IM confused

so are you supposed to 1)jack up front end/remove filler cap, 2)start engine 3)turn lock to lock or are you supposed to turn lock to lock with engine off:shrug:
 
so are you supposed to 1)jack up front end/remove filler cap, 2)start engine 3)turn lock to lock or are you supposed to turn lock to lock with engine off:shrug:

If you turn the wheel at all while the pump is not spinning (like when the car is off), you'll dump fluid out of the reservoir. The rack displaces fluid but the pump is not spinning, so it's not replenishing the fluid back into the rack. The pump res overflows and dumps excess fluid out the vent.

Otherwise, you were right. I just let it touch the locks on the last couple of rotations, but otherwise dont let it even hit the locks.