When I first researched this upgrade last year I knew I'd have to do the MC, but I totally forgot when I started buying parts last week.
Could I do the proportioning valve only or would that be stupid?
Also thinking of doing springs at the same time because I know it's gonna look like a monster truck and i don't want to have to pull it apart twice. Looking to do autoX and occasional dd duty...any suggestions?
you could but that's wouldn't be the best thing to do.. if you CAN AFFORD to the mc/pv than do it.. if not than just do the pv but when you get the money than do the mc..
my plan with my car is to do autoX as well. my plan is to put a irs setup in my car with a full maximum motorsports coil over setup... right now on my car i have eibach sportline springs and i absolutely love them.. my car is a dd and i don't have any problems with the eibachs.. they lower are cars perfectly!!! i have had H & R super sports, eibach pro kit, and eibach sportlines and they are my absolute favorite.. i also have maximum motorsports caster camber plates and monroe sensa trac struts...
EPIK said:I hear u guys about doing things right the 1st time...Thats almost always my view on my projects, but being that this 5 lug swap thing is adding up pretty fast, & with Xmas right around the corner, i gotta stop buying stuff for myself & think of others for a change...
youll be tired of seeing those huge front brakes and the tiny rear drums.
+ 10000000
Drums brakes are so 1985
94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra brake boosters are the same.
94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra master cylinders are different, so you need a Cobra M/C.
There is nothing wrong with running the spacers on top of the spindles to space the castle nut upward so the cotter pin is aligned. BUT...if you're car has 172K, replace them. Buy the 94-95 call joints. They press in the FOX LCA's the exact same way. Might as well do new tie rods too while it's apart. Don't want a tie rod breaking sending you into the wall. Also, go with all MOOG parts. They are tight parts and last a long time.