info on 460 and c6 swap

importkiller90

New Member
Sep 16, 2007
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iowa
i have a friend that has a 1979 460 engine and c6 transmission and was wondering what is needed to swap that into an 1990 musatang with a 5.0 and 5 speed. i know that you would need the headers,oil pan and motor mounts. i know that cant be all, so any info and help would be great.
 
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my aod driveshaft was shortened up 2 inches and i installed a C6 yoke on it. And BTW i run the stock 5.0 k member, FMS swap mounts and oil pan kit, hooker super comp swap headers, stock fox brakes with the stock booster and tall FMS valve covers on the 466 and it clears with about 1 inch clearance. The smallest hood with this setup and a low single plane intake will be about a 4" cowl.
 
HEy I am doing that same swap and have ran into a few problems, 1 my oil pan is tuching the (stock) K-member on ther passanger sides. 2 my headers are very very close to my fire wall on the driver side and the stock steering shaft to the rack rubbed the headers, so I replaced the rrack with a Flaming River manual rack seems to clear at this time. As far as the headers and pan not sure how to fix that at this time....... anyhelp would be great.....Oya and does anyone know is this swap even worth the trouble...
 
HEy I am doing that same swap and have ran into a few problems, 1 my oil pan is tuching the (stock) K-member on ther passanger sides. 2 my headers are very very close to my fire wall on the driver side and the stock steering shaft to the rack rubbed the headers, so I replaced the rrack with a Flaming River manual rack seems to clear at this time. As far as the headers and pan not sure how to fix that at this time....... anyhelp would be great.....Oya and does anyone know is this swap even worth the trouble...

Heck yes it's worth the trouble.... If you are swapping in a healthy 429 or 460. But if it's a worn out smog-era weezer, then it's not worth it.

Your listed problems seem minimal. Don't be afraid to dent cut and pry on stuff. Shim the motor mount to make pan clearance if necessary. Engine mounted low is a good thing.

It's best to do some trial-fitting before final installation. Mark places to trim and dent and pull the motor and trim and dent. It seems crude to beat on the firewall, but once the engine is in, no one will ever know. You will probably want to trim the right rear K-member mount up close to the inner bolt also.

It's not exactly a bolt in and go deal, but that's because there's not a lot of room to work with.

Have you visited my web sites? http://www.bigblockfox.com , KitInfo

There's a wealth of info at the bigblockfox yahoo group. Join up, search the archives, and ask qestions.

Hope this helps.

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