From 4.6 to 5.0????

[Omars96GT]

hey guys thanks for the help on the last thread i posted and you all are so right. i will be keeping my GT and it will be leaving the body shop with a cobra front bumper and head lights. Well i want to drop in a 5.0. the NPI 4.6 is way under power with out juice. i want to buy working 5.0 motor and put some gt40 heads, cams, mantifold and a 150 shot. i want to know if its worth it and what do i have to do to make it work.

 

[BurningRubber]

Alot. And really it isn't worth the hassle IMO unless you REALLY want to do it and are prepared for alot of money, especially if a shop is doing it...

Of course you need a 5.0 engine. 5.0 k-member, T-5, or AOD/AODE trans, you need to decide if you are going carb or EFI. EFI you need a wire harness, and find some way to make it work with 4.6 components (have fun, if it's possible at all). Carb you need to overcome some electronics issues with the 4.6 equipment (speedometer, tachometer, odometer).

It's a real pain in the ass and I really do not reccomend the swap.

You are MUCH better off doing a PI swap and keeping your nitrous. With the money left over AFTER the PI swap you would have enough for a good tune and probably some left for fuel parts if you dare up it to a 150 shot.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Not worth the time or money IMO. Never mind the work and cost involved in swapping a 5.0L, computer, trans, exhaust, etc into the '96-SN95, but adding GT40 heads, a cam and Cobra intake will barely put you on par with the power levels of a stock PI engine as it is.

You'll essentially spend twice as much as you would with just a PI engine swap, and go no quicker.

Pick yourself up a used PI engine (prefferably from an Explorer) with your current bolt ons and you'll put yourself ahead of the game and save a pile of money in the process. Money you can put towards that nitrous system.

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

If you refer to a 5.0 build and say "cams", you should probably stick to Modulars

 

[Blackone51]

Did you not see 98cobra281s numbers! Forget the pi swap, well the heads anyway. Build that npi stang.

 

[mazen189]

port n polish the heads, throw in some cams, and call it a day.

 

[98COBRA281]

Did you not see 98cobra281s numbers! Forget the pi swap, well the heads anyway. Build that npi stang.

yup, i just put down 310rwhp on a base tune with hand ported npi heads

that should be more then enough power to get me in the 12's........

 

[mustangman9812]

port & polish your NPI Heads, Cams, L/T's and you will never want or think about a 5.0 again lol.

 

[Omars96GT]

i do not want to invest anymore money into my motor becuase it has over 150000 miles and it smokes when left at ideal for about 5min. i guess ill get a motor off a f150 or an expidition and port the heads and throw some cams in it. dose that sound good. and i think i can find a pritty good motor for about 300-500 dollars

 

[Omars96GT]

by the way i do not have the money to build the bottom end like 98cobra281 did

 

[Blackone51]

by the way i do not have the money to build the bottom end like 98cobra281 did

Im pretty sure he did a budget build, it can be done cheap if your mechanically inclined.

 

[BurningRubber]

i do not want to invest anymore money into my motor becuase it has over 150000 miles and it smokes when left at ideal for about 5min. i guess ill get a motor off a f150 or an expidition and port the heads and throw some cams in it. dose that sound good. and i think i can find a pritty good motor for about 300-500 dollars

You are better off re-building your engine.

You may purchase a used motor and learn that it needs to be rebuild anyways. $300-$500 motors usually aren't the pretty good ones.

You could pull your engine, see what it needs. IF you are lucky you could re-hone the cylinders and not need to bore them. If you need to clean them up, no big deal.

Your smoking could be worn rings, but since you say it smokes after it sits it is more likely valve seals.

Use what you got man, you will be happy with the end result.

 

[FordTard]

I would think that it would be cheaper to rebuild your 4.6 than to do a complete swap. If you are stuck on the 5.0 thing make your 4.6 a stroker and a pi swap.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

i guess ill get a motor off a f150 or an expidition and port the heads and throw some cams in it. dose that sound good. and i think i can find a pritty good motor for about 300-500 dollars

What part of EXPLORER ENGINE did I not make clear in my previous post? F150's and Expeditions use Windsor engines with tall, long runner truck intakes and accesory brackets. Passenger vehicles and Explorers use Romeo engines with lower profile car intakes. If you're going to replace the entire engine, your smartest options is to do so with an Explorer engine because not only is it the exact same configuration as the Mustang, but it also has an aluminum block. An option not available on any other 2V. The only thing you're going to need to swap over is your fuel rails and some minor misc parts and you're done. Having it dyno tuned afterwards to recalibrate your ECU will be most beneficial to performance and drivability, but its not mandatory.

Not only will you pick up all of the power advantages that the PI engine has to offer over your current NPI engine, but because the Explorer has an aluminum block, you'll strip a significant amount of weight from the nose of your car which will aid in both acceleration and handling.

You are better off re-building your engine.

You may purchase a used motor and learn that it needs to be rebuild anyways. $300-$500 motors usually aren't the pretty good ones.

You could pull your engine, see what it needs. IF you are lucky you could re-hone the cylinders and not need to bore them. If you need to clean them up, no big deal.

Your smoking could be worn rings, but since you say it smokes after it sits it is more likely valve seals.

Use what you got man, you will be happy with the end result.

No offence to the original poster, but by the sounds of it, attempting to rebuild his current engine sounds over his head. IMO going that route is going to cost him twice as much because not only will he have to pay for the rebuild parts, but more than likely he'll have to pay someone to put it back together for him after he gives up on it?

 

[Blackone51]

What part of EXPLORER ENGINE did I not make clear in my previous post? F150's and Expeditions use Windsor engines with tall, long runner truck intakes and accesory brackets. Passenger vehicles and Explorers use Romeo engines with lower profile car intakes. If you're going to replace the entire engine, your smartest options is to do so with an Explorer engine because not only is it the exact same configuration as the Mustang, but it also has an aluminum block. An option not available on any other 2V. The only thing you're going to need to swap over is your fuel rails and some minor misc parts and you're done. Having it dyno tuned afterwards to recalibrate your ECU will be most beneficial to performance and drivability, but its not mandatory.

Not only will you pick up all of the power advantages that the PI engine has to offer over your current NPI engine, but because the Explorer has an aluminum block, you'll strip a significant amount of weight from the nose of your car which will aid in both acceleration and handling.


No offence to the original poster, but by the sounds of it, attempting to rebuild his current engine sounds over his head. IMO going that route is going to cost him twice as much because not only will he have to pay for the rebuild parts, but more than likely he'll have to pay someone to put it back together for him after he gives up on it?

No offense doesnt mean it still doesnt hurt. I agree tho but everyone had to start learning somewhere no better time than now.

 

[billfisher]

gearbanger he is suggesting a 5.0liter small block.


DUDE A USED CAMMED 5.0L WITH MILES ON IT IS NO BETTER THAN WHAT YOU HAVE NOW.
it is an easy swap. other guys mentioned what you'll need. but that is a lot more than 300 dollars. a cam will cost 200.00 alone. then springs because a decent cam will float stocker at 5500. = 65.00.
porting gt40 heads isnt free. 550.00 used. intake 350.00 used.

k-member used 100.00.

PCM and harness for mass-air? 200.00? more maybe. charging system redo. new gauges.
tranny. flywheel/pressureplate/clutch.

rear crossmember?




not trying to discourage. but saying a 5.0 swap is cheaper is not really true. unless you want a 145hp truck engine.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

gearbanger he is suggesting a 5.0liter small block.

Really....because last time I checked, there was no Ford Expedition back when the 5.0L was still in production. That, and OHV engines on have one cam....not two.

 

['13_ImpactBlue_GT]

What part of EXPLORER ENGINE did I not make clear in my previous post? F150's and Expeditions use Windsor engines with tall, long runner truck intakes and accesory brackets. Passenger vehicles and Explorers use Romeo engines with lower profile car intakes. If you're going to replace the entire engine, your smartest options is to do so with an Explorer engine because not only is it the exact same configuration as the Mustang, but it also has an aluminum block. An option not available on any other 2V. The only thing you're going to need to swap over is your fuel rails and some minor misc parts and you're done. Having it dyno tuned afterwards to recalibrate your ECU will be most beneficial to performance and drivability, but its not mandatory.

Not only will you pick up all of the power advantages that the PI engine has to offer over your current NPI engine, but because the Explorer has an aluminum block, you'll strip a significant amount of weight from the nose of your car which will aid in both acceleration and handling.

No offence to the original poster, but by the sounds of it, attempting to rebuild his current engine sounds over his head. IMO going that route is going to cost him twice as much because not only will he have to pay for the rebuild parts, but more than likely he'll have to pay someone to put it back together for him after he gives up on it?

How much weight would he save by having an aluminum block?

 

[Gearbanger 101]

How much weight would he save by having an aluminum block?

Given the beefy design of the modular block, I would estimate about 50-60lbs. It doesn't sound like a lot on paper, but it makes a difference when its over the front suspension.

 

[Razinhell]

Really....because last time I checked, there was no Ford Expedition back when the 5.0L was still in production. That, and OHV engines on have one cam....not two.

mmmm. a nice 5.4L from a F150 would be fun, but probably too much work. I remember seeing a build up in one of the Mustang Magazines. They didn't get awesome numbers, but they were still better then stock.