project 91GT

[customfabwork]

Any updates???????

Well we are just in the process of cleaning up welds. been trying to get the bottom side of the car done. hopefully going to be able to get the bottom primered here in the next week or two. Then we have some finish work to do to the cage and the inside of the car. Then we are going to paint the cage. I will take some pics of the bottom side of the car today and post up later this evening.

 

[MAC'n89Blckstng]

Are you painting the underside of the car red as well? Or are you undercoating it?

 

[customfabwork]

Are you painting the underside of the car red as well? Or are you undercoating it?

No, its going to be getting primered, then we are going to use a product called lizard skin. Its a ceramic insulation spray, kinda like undercoating but is nicer. Then the inside of the car will get sprayed with another kind of lizard skin, the product for the inside is a sound deadener.

edit: the bottom will be black

 

[1slo8850]

Always wanted you try that stuff let me know how it spray's.

 

[customfabwork]

Always wanted you try that stuff let me know how it spray's.

I will. This is the first time I will be using it btw. I have read a lot about this stuff and it seems like a great product. We were going to just use the normal foil lined dynamat type stuff in the inside for the sound deadner, but I found this stuff and it seems like it would be a lot better, and probably a little easier on the pocketbook. The reason to use it on the underside of the car is, this is going to a driver, if you would spend the time to smooth and make the underside of the car so nice, then you drive it and get some stone chips that would be very aggravating. With this stuff, it will give everything a nice even, uniform finish, but you won't have to worry about stone chips. Its kinda of like a bedliner. I can't wait to get this stuff on, as that will be about time to start putting the car back together.

 

[1slo8850]

I thought of spraying my underside with a tintable bed liner that way i still get the body color , sound deadning and rust protection. Dont now how easy it would be spraying upside down. I think the lizard skin would be better then the dynamat cause it will go in the in all the tight spaces you cant get the mat to go, I also wanted to hit inside the doors lightly.

 

[stanglx2002]

Did you get anymore pics of your work? You have some great work going on.

 

[customfabwork]

Did you get anymore pics of your work? You have some great work going on.

I don't have any pics of car. work has been a little slow on the car lately. we are hoping the get all the bare metal in primer by the end of the week. I will take some pics tuesday when i go over to get some work done. Thanks for the compliment

 

[customfabwork]

took a few pictures today. we are just about ready to get some primering done. once everything is primed we will be painting the cage. as you can see in the pics, all the welds have been smoothed up. once we get the primer on, i will seam seal the tubs, the new rear floor, and where the subframe connectors come through the floor. here are the pics, enjoy

 

[1991notchbackLX]

absolutely sick... can you imagine if Trbofox and customfabwork collaborated on a build

 

[25thmustang]

I have one question...

It is my understanding your not supposed to grind the welds on a roll cage. I've always thought that makes the cage not certified. If I'm wrong, thats a good thing, I would want to grind my welds after also!

 

[customfabwork]

I have one question...

It is my understanding your not supposed to grind the welds on a roll cage. I've always thought that makes the cage not certified. If I'm wrong, thats a good thing, I would want to grind my welds after also!

actually they are not really ground down, well a little bit, but they are mostly just smoothed up with duraglass. This picture shows how the joints are just filled with the duraglass.

Yes, you are right, grinding or covering the weld, will cause the chassis to not be able to be certified, but like i have stated before, this is not a race car, its more of a street/show car. The car has a full cage for two reasons, the visual impact, and two, it will make the car stiffer and safer. I know the cage is not going to be certified, but i won't be scared to rip some nasty pass's down the quarter mile The next car we build will be a full out race car, chromoly cage all tig welded, which will look very nice. We didn't tig weld this one because i couldn't talk my dad into letting me borrow his tig.

We got the inside of the car primed today, i have some pics. I will get them uploaded and post them.

 

[customfabwork]

here are some pics of the primering fun today

This is where the x comes together in the back. took awhile to get the bar cut just right to lay into the other one

 

[SteedaGT9150]

going to be sick

 

[justabigkid]

Amazing work and a gorgeous car, but that front hoop really confuses me. I understand the car will be mostly show but it really serves no purpose since the strut tower would just collapse in any kind wreck and the tubes are not one piece which weakens the strength of the structure.

 

[1991notchbackLX]

how many times does the guy have to type that he's building the cage as per the request of the owner of the car, and not to be certified? do you guys read or just look at pictures like a mustang pop-up book?

 

[25thmustang]

how many times does the guy have to type that he's building the cage as per the request of the owner of the car, and not to be certified? do you guys read or just look at pictures like a mustang pop-up book?

So my question was out of line because he is building the car for show and not for go? If it was, I'm sorry to have pi$$ed in your cherios this morning...

 

[customfabwork]

Amazing work and a gorgeous car, but that front hoop really confuses me. I understand the car will be mostly show but it really serves no purpose since the strut tower would just collapse in any kind wreck and the tubes are not one piece which weakens the strength of the structure.

I don't understand what your talking about, the front hoop?? and i really doubt the strut towers would collapse. Inside of the strut tower, there is a box that is made out of plate, the plate that most people attach there cage to the floor with, that is what the bar from the a pillar bar attach to. then, in the middle of the firewall, do you see the two tabs protruding?? that is where the strut tower brace with attach, and those tabs are tied into the dash bar. the bars in front of the strut tower are also attached to that box inside of the strut tower. I will post some pictures so you can see what i'm talking about. I'm not trying to be a dick, i'm just trying to explain this

This is where the tube will sit

In this picture you can see the box that is inside of the strut tower, that is where the bar is attached to

This is the box, its not finished in this picture, the outside edge had two pieces attached to make it a box.

Here is a top view of the two bars coming into the box, there is no way the strut tower will move forward or backwards. Then when you combine the cross bracing with the strut tower brace attach to firewall/dash bar, you will not have and side to side movement. plus you have the strength of the orginal structure as it is all still attached.

This is where the strut tower brace will attach to the firewall

Did i clear this up? or am i not even talking about where you were talking about?

 

[customfabwork]

So my question was out of line because he is building the car for show and not for go? If it was, I'm sorry to have pi$$ed in your cherios this morning...

Its cool, i don't go through every page of everyone else's build and read everything. Yes its mainly built for show, but trust me it will still have plenty of go. Just not going to be built as a drag car. It will be a street/ show car. we don't need any piss in cherios its all good

 

[Beasty306GT]

looking good man nice work