snakepilot, how did you figure out the ride height needed with the flex a forms? I'm running 275 40 17's w/ 17x9.5s on the rear, I still have my sagged orig leafs an want to raise it about an inch above what I have now. I was thinking of installing a set of new TMC HD st height leafs I have had in my garage for 15 yrs and then measure from there.
Oh yea, how did you do the staggerd shock setup? I'd like to do that on my 67 vert, I have a 9" versailles rear I need to put in soon as my 8" will not handle my 500 hp 408 for long.
Quadra shocks work well. One big problem with the Fox
suspension is the same as a stock classic Mustang problem - the
suspension mounting points are rubber. When the rubber deflects and rebounds under load, you get wheel hop.
The guys at Flex-aForm have done enough of these for Mustangs that you just have to tell them what you have and what you want. I told him I have a '67 with a big block for street use and I wanted a one inch drop. He nailed the stance I wanted. In comparison, I changed front coil springs four times to get the stance I wanted.
We had a Boss302 in the shop when we converted my car to staggered shocks. In my opinion it looks more OEM than the factory. The cuts and welding were fairly crude on the factory car. Pictures I have seen on the web of other factory staggered shock cars confirm this. In addition to the shock mount there is a piece of sheetmetal that goes all the way across the bottom connecting the frame rails and an L-shaped piece in the trunk. A while ago I remember seeing a guy who advertised on the internet all of the conversion pieces needed.
Hack is right, having your
suspension mounted with rubber is a major contributor to wheel hop. CalTracs work not just because of the transfer link (the traction bar) but becuase they use solid aluminum spring eye bushings. I have Global West Del-Alum bushings in my Flex-a-Forms. The bushings, front & rear, also help control roll defection so you don't need a sway bar and lateral deflection so you don't need a
panhard or watts set-up.
I also have Shelby snubbers. These snubbers mount on the floor above the front part of the leaf springs. Shelby only used them in 1967. Under heavy acceleration when the spring wraps up the top of the spring contacts the snubber which increase the spring rate to prevent wheel hop and allow the car to launch harder. During normal driving, the springs work normally so you don't have a stiff ride. They also don't bind like underride bars do which negatively effects handling.Plus it's the first place Shelby snobs look when they want to prove a fake. The originals are cast iron but mine are aluminum. I was going to paint them cast iron but I'm not trying to fool anyone and they compliment the aluminum ends of the Flex-a-Forms nicely.
I had Shelby underrides in my car when it had a 390 and it wheel hopped bad. I didn't want to take any chances with the 482 so I went staggered, glass monoleafs, solid bushings, and Shelby snubbers. Overkill? Maybe but it looks good, doesn't hop, and launches very well.
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